Very clear,

Cheers.

Has any one run a three bladed 11x8 prop,on a 72? I know you can do it looking for results.

Thanks ahead of time!

Andy

I test ran my FA-80 today. It runs a treat even with its dented pushrod cover and split seals. Are the seals really needed? I need to work out if after-market mufflers are available or is it possible to manufacture a home made muffler. Seems like it would be a good project for a simple silver soldering exercise. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by Wing-span

I test ran my FA-80 today. It runs a treat even with its dented pushrod cover and split seals. Are the seals really needed? I need to work out if after-market mufflers are available or is it possible to manufacture a home made muffler. Seems like it would be a good project for a
simple silver soldering exercise. Any ideas?

As long as you are not bothered by any additional mess from oil, the seals are just there to stabilize the tubes.

The dent might be problematic if it is deep enoiugh to rub on the pushrod.

Low temperature silver solder will not holdup to the heat of a muffler. High temperture silver brazing is what needs to be employed.

Dear Wing-span & SrTelemaster:

The PIPE here with a quick one...per the statment from SrTelemaster earlier:

Originally Posted by SrTelemaster

Low temperature silver solder will not holdup to the heat of a muffler. Hign temperture silver brazing is what needs to be employed.

...

a post of mine at RCGroups from almost a year ago in the "WWI Everyone" thread should clarify that sort of thing up, as I've done BOTH procedures in making both landing gear and exahust systems for scale model aircraft with various types of metal parts.

Please click on the "linkey-dink" bold type (my own term for such a thing in posts) in the previous paragraph to read the post...

...and also check out The Brazing Book online to e-learn more about it, too, for the "high-temperature" stuff !!

Hope all this info helps a little...

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!

Originally Posted by The PIPE

Dear Wing-span & SrTelemaster:

The PIPE here with a quick one...per the statment from SrTelemaster earlier:

...

a post of mine at RCGroups from almost a year ago in the "WWI Everyone" thread should clarify that sort of thing up, as I've done BOTH procedures in making both landing gear and exahust systems for scale model aircraft with various types of metal parts.

Please click on the "linkey-dink" bold type (my own term for such a thing in posts) in the previous paragraph to read the post...

...and also check out The Brazing Book online to e-learn more about it, too, for the "high-temperature" stuff !!

Hope all this info helps a little...

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!

Hey PIPE, Sta-Brtite is as you say silver bearing tin it is 96%/4% tin/silver. It's original use was for jewelry & crafts were a non tarnishing "bright" solder was needed. Any hdwe store that sells this expensive soft solder for plumbing is not "well stocked". Much more economical 95%/5% tin/antimony solders are just as suitable for potable water applications.

Dear SrTelemaster:

The PIPE Here again...it IS possible to purchase the Wolverine firm's exact 95/5 SnAg solder in roll form (the "Silvabrite S" formulation) for low-temperature needs, and that firm is located in Warwick, RI, not very far from where I live just south of Boston.

The tin-antimony solder you mentioned IS also a good choice for drinking water systems' soldered joints with copper plumbing - at least both SnAg and SnSb (Sb is antimony's periodic table abbreviation) kinds of solder HAVE NO LEAD in them, making them ideal choices for "unleaded" solder for such needs.

My homebuilt RC hobby electronics PC board and wiring soldering needs WILL continue to be done with the older, 63/37 "eutectic" tin-lead solder, though...I haven't done that in a while now, but when it's time to get back to the RC hobby once again, and time to build more MicroStar-based knobby radios for my own needs as one example, 63/37 SnPb regular "leaded" solder will always be my best choice for those.

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!

Hello Saito Engine forum! Well I have a question for the expert's. I want to use a Saito engine on a fan boat (airboat) and my hope is I can get some guidance. I will be using a regular airplane prop so the air from the prop will keep the engine cool.

I typically us a .46 two cycle engine, OS, So don't flame me too bad. I need your recommendations on a 4 cycle Saito that is comparable in power. I love the sound of the Saito engine. So with this being said what is recommended? Do you recommended I even use a 4 cycle Saito on a airboat? I read that the 4 cycles are high maintenance compared to 2 stroke. Your thought's on this?

I watch for the feedback,

Thanks,

-Gary

Question guys, I got the Bocas for my 72, and the front bearing has a black and green side. Does the green side of the front go toward the front of the case? Also, does the little divot on the con rod go to the back? I can't remember!

Originally Posted by rcairboater

Hello Saito Engine forum! Well I have a question for the expert's. I want to use a Saito engine on a fan boat (airboat) and my hope is I can get some guidance. I will be using a regular airplane prop so the air from the prop will keep the engine cool.

I typically us a .46 two cycle engine, OS, So don't flame me too bad. I need your recommendations on a 4 cycle Saito that is comparable in power. I love the sound of the Saito engine. So with this being said what is recommended? Do you recommended I even use a 4 cycle Saito on a air-boat? I read that the 4 cycles are high maintenance compared to 2 stroke. Your thought's on this?

I watch for the feedback,

Thanks,

my experience (for what it's worth ) of fan boats going back to the 60's, and running Saito's for 15 years you shouldn't have any problems, 4 strokes only need the valves setting after running in and maybe every 5 years,, so go ahead, get rid of that wailing 2 stroke and put a REAL motor in it .

-Gary

aaaaa

Hutch, the chamfer goes toward the counter weight to match the filet on the crankpin.. Its well established that the dot is not 100% reliable but the chamfer is.

Originally Posted by rcairboater

Hello Saito Engine forum! Well I have a question for the expert's. I want to use a Saito engine on a fan boat (airboat) and my hope is I can get some guidance. I will be using a regular airplane prop so the air from the prop will keep the engine cool.

I typically us a .46 two cycle engine, OS, So don't flame me too bad. I need your recommendations on a 4 cycle Saito that is comparable in power. I love the sound of the Saito engine. So with this being said what is recommended? Do you recommended I even use a 4 cycle Saito on a airboat? I read that the 4 cycles are high maintenance compared to 2 stroke. Your thought's on this?

I watch for the feedback,

Thanks,


-Gary

Typically, multiply the displacement of the 2S by 1 1/2 to get a 4S of similar power.

In this case, maybe an FA72?

Be ready to re-think prop pitch as the 4S will make touque @ a lower RPM range..

More pitch and/or diameter will be in order to utilize the power band of the 4S.

Originally Posted by I TOBOR

Hutch, the chamfer goes toward the counter weight to match the filet on the crankpin.. Its well established that the dot is not 100% reliable but the chamfer is.

Wow, that's good to know. I never encountered that before so in the future I will keeep an eye out.

Hey all,
I bought a used Saito FA-150GK and it seems to run fine on the bench. However, when I reversed the carb to move the linkage to the other side it looked like there should be an o-ring between the intake tube mount and the carb housing, but there wasn't. Should there be?

yes


Is there a rebate within the carb' body ... containing an O-ring?