Originally Posted by cdee

Tom...

The programing card is certainly the easiest. If having to do via the transmitter, I believe that you can only set one item at a time, ie you will have to cycle through all the settings seperately for each item you want to change.
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cdee
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Yeah , I got lost among all the beeps , Easier with the Card for sure .
I set the motor / esc up first then found I had the brake and soft start ? musta pulled stik back tooo soon or too late

...............te

Originally Posted by JC Spohr

Depends on what motor you are using.

I am running a Suppo 78g A2810 1000kv w/ 12x6 APC-E on 3S 1800 Nanotechs.

If you are running the Twisted 78g A2810 1100kv motor, you may not be able to go larger. An amp meter will tell the story.

JC

Its a 1100 kv 74g motor from value hobby. Equivalent to a park 480. Rated @ 23A.
http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...motor_class=83

Wattmeter in the very near future

Originally Posted by BrightCap232

Its a 1100 kv 74g motor from value hobby. Equivalent to a park 480. Rated @ 23A.
http://www.valuehobby.com/power-syst...motor_class=83

Wattmeter in the very near future

Specs on that show it to be a 2808 motor and recommended props are 11x5.5 or 12x8.

So looks like you have some room to experiment and try 12" props.

JC

Originally Posted by JC Spohr

Specs on that show it to be a 2808 motor and recommended props are 11x5.5 or 12x8.

So looks like you have some room to experiment and try 12" props.

JC

So basically I can experiment with anything from 11x5.5 to 12x8?

Originally Posted by BrightCap232

So basically I can experiment with anything from 11x5.5 to 12x8?

That appears to be the case.

You might try some slow-fly props as well. But make sure you check current draw with an Amp meter.

JC

Originally Posted by JC Spohr

That appears to be the case.

You might try some slow-fly props as well. But make sure you check current draw with an Amp meter.

JC

What are the main differences between direct drive and slow fly props?

Originally Posted by BrightCap232

What are the main differences between direct drive and slow fly props?

Slow fly prop blades have a much wider cross section and are meant to produce maximum thrust at lower RPM as compared to standard direct drive props.

JC

Originally Posted by JC Spohr

Slow fly prop blades have a much wider cross section and are meant to produce maximum thrust at lower RPM as compared to standard direct drive props.

JC

So the slow flyers are better for 3D?

I had some trouble getting brake off as well as soft start , so ordered a P card from Brad . In the meantime ,I was setting up the Sbach in my Jr 9503 and found that I could not adjust travel on right aileron ? I had set wing up as FLAPERON so as to be able to use small amt of down flap to get off grnd quicker . I spent couple hours checking , measuring arm on servo , same distance from Fuse and LE- finally gave up and went to bed. This AM , I called HH for some help and after long tele conversation - they were shaking their heads - Under Travel adj ,hands off TX & using scroll button - servo would move as if I was in SUB TRIM ? They told me to do a reset and start over - call em bak if same problem - mite have to send Tx back in .
I had same problem when I started from Scratch again ! called HH & asked to speak to same person-Nah I help ya Familar with that Tx -& he figured out what was wrong -thanks hung up and Noticed smoke emitting from that Servo ! eeek UNplugged Batt rushed outside and pouring coffee on Servo ,later washed with water .I called Brad at TH to ask if his servos same as hitec?that I cud put another one in -Nah he said OK I will order two from you while on the fone -Brad says order ONE and I will replace yur burnt one at N/C :-) ON reset of Model , I yanked Throtle stick back quicker than before, Now NO brake or soft start .Brad was nice enuff to offer free servo even though I did not ask for one

Originally Posted by BrightCap232

So the slow flyers are better for 3D?

All depends on your 3D style.

Some like low and slow. Others like fast and aggressive. Some in between.

It's a personal preference.

I like the low and slow close-in stuff.

Experiment and see what suits you.

JC

Originally Posted by JC Spohr

All depends on your 3D style.

Some like low and slow. Others like fast and aggressive. Some in between.

It's a personal preference.

I like the low and slow close-in stuff.

Experiment and see what suits you.

JC

I enjoy both..
Maybe 12x6E for speed and power and 11 x5.5SF for 3D stuff?

Originally Posted by BrightCap232

I enjoy both..
Maybe 12x6E for speed and power and 11 x5.5SF for 3D stuff?

I've only flown mine with 12x6E. I'm so darned happy with it that I have yet to experiment with CG or props.

It would be great if guys who have could share their findings and setups here (again... so we don't have to sort thru the numerous pages).

JC

I'm still running (only a couple day flying!) the Omega 72, 40ZTW, 11x5.5 APC E. I need to upgrade my sagging old 1600 3s, to get a bit more power (although it is nice as is) and I may switch out to a 12x6 or something. But as you say, loving it as I have it. The poor old Omega has already had a year of pounding (and impacts) on an old Telink, but still going strong and no bent adaptor that I can spot. I oiled it very lightly for the first time the other day.

12 x 3.8 SF for me

Mike

Ok so i'm gonna try out these props and report my findings. BUT might be a little bit because we're in the midst of selling our house plus it's the holidays so i'm sure "life" will get in the way. Need my replacment servo from TH too so that's also holding me up.

11x5.5E
12X6E
11X4.7SF
12X4.5SF

I still need a wattmeter but i'll get that eventually (soon I hope)

I have a 74g 1100kv motor good for 23A but i'm also gonna give the Suppo 78g 1000kv a go as well. Not sure how the 78g motor can handle 35A but the 74g only 23A. Is it the kv rating making that possible? I dunno just my ignorance I guess.