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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:56 AM
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Joined Oct 2011
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Hello.
Sorry, do not speak very good English.
I decided to buy myself the airplane Mytho S 125 E, but do not know what color option to buy.
What color variant of the two that are on sale you think you would see better during the flight?
Waiting for your views especially those flying P13 program.


Dan.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:58 AM
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media, pennsylvania, united states
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo9000 View Post
More focussed time today - now on 8s 5,000 40c. Motor is A60-6XS - V2.

Have experimented with a variety of 18 x 8 props (APC, XOAR IC and E, PT) and concensus (with input from a few seasoned campaigners) is that 18 x8 just isn't enough load for the motor and it is over-revving even when limited to around 80 Amps through the throttle curve. So it is now back on a 19 x 8, throttle curve to a peak of just over 60%, and pulling around 85 Amps peak. Similar performance to 18 x 8 but no more prop screaming at full throttle. Have a colleague who is flying one on 6s (65 to 130c cells) and concensus is this set up accelerates and holds speed a little better on uplines - but for accurate, fun, sport flying 6c is great (and flies a little lighter).

After sorting props I flew four full flights of P-13, at full F3A scale and in moderate 45 degree blow in wind - and it is coming home with around 15 - 20% left in the packs. In this configuration it is sitting just under 5kg flying weight (with
separate flight battery).

Gibbo

Which configuration are you using for the full p13?
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:32 PM
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Miramar, Florida
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan 73 View Post
Hello.
Sorry, do not speak very good English.
I decided to buy myself the airplane Mytho S 125 E, but do not know what color option to buy.
What color variant of the two that are on sale you think you would see better during the flight?
Waiting for your views especially those flying P13 program.


Dan.
You can see for yourself, the Japanese video (linked earlier in this thread) is the White/Red scheme and my video (also in this thread in a few places) is the Yellow/Black scheme, it's all personal opinion IMO...

Jack
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TimBle View Post
Sorry I misunderstand. Is the 8S the better set up for the speed on the uplines or the 6S 65-130C set up?
For flying F3A schedules I am using 8s 5,000mah, 40s with a 19 x 8 APC prop and throttle curve pulled back to around 60% to limit peak current to around 80 Amps. I am finding this easiest to fly at good, constant speed (not overly fast) with solid power to maintain speed/penetration on uplines and deal with windy conditions.

6s is still highly enjoyable, but just not quite right for me for F3A schedules on power or capacity. Over time I might consider moving to a lower KV motor . . . but we will get a few more flights into it first and fly it in a local comp weekend after next.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:17 PM
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After many years of R/C helis, I've decided to delve into F3A. I always liked the gracefulness of the models, and even with helis (which I still have and fly of course), I was always more of a "precision" type flyer, as opposed to the popular "smack 3D" flying.

So after following this thread for awhile and looking around at options for entry level models, I ordered last Wednesday (Nov 28th) a MythoS 125e. Other than the appealing looks of the model that I like, I have many 6S 5000 packs around from flying 12S powered 700 class helis. Looks like the power system will be more than sufficient for the lower classes in competition I'll be in for awhile

So the model came today, and other than the covering will need attention (expected), everything was well packaged (so much so you almost have to remove the box from around the model, rather than take the model out of the box), there was no damage, and I'm pleased with what came in the box for the money spent.

My son has a Wind S Pro, and he's lookin' at the model saying, "And you only paid how much for this??"

This is going to be fun

(-: Dave Dahl
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Canada, ON, Guelph
Joined Mar 2008
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Hi Dave,

Congrats on pulling the trigger getting this model it looks awesome.
I,ve got a couple of questions for you, if you don't mind.
Where did you order the plane from and was it double boxed, ply inner liner etc. for security?

thx
Dave
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 08:32 PM
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@ DLEVETT,

I ordered from Chief Aircraft, and the invoice said it would be "shipped from the vendor". I called and asked if that meant it was coming from overseas, and they said no, that it was being shipped from a warehouse in Nevada. It was delivered UPS five days after ordering.

Here's what came. The box from the manufacturer that contained the model, was heavy cardboard, and it had several smaller boxes inside for the various parts (canopy, landing gears, cowlings etc.), and then partitions as well to hold the fuse and wings / stabs all in place. Everything was secure, wrapped well, and couldn't move around inside at all. It was very well done in my opinion.

Then, the box with the model was contained inside another heavy cardboard box, which I suppose was the "shipping box". Short of being out-right crushed, the model was pretty well insulated from "routine" shipping damage.

Now that I've been playing with it some, I'll add that the cowl, canopy, cantilever wing (sp?), and the wing and stab tubes all fit perfectly. Again, the covering has many wrinkles, but for the most part, a little work with a trim iron and heat gun handles that.

(-: Dave
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Miramar, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLEVETT View Post
Hi Dave,

Congrats on pulling the trigger getting this model it looks awesome.
I,ve got a couple of questions for you, if you don't mind.
Where did you order the plane from and was it double boxed, ply inner liner etc. for security?

thx
Dave
The plane likely shipped from Thunder Power RC in Las Vegas, they are the US importer and exclusive distributor for Sebart in North America. They plane comes double boxed, a glossy inner box with an outer plain brown box, the plane is securely held in-place with dividers and smaller boxes cut to fit around the vertical fin and firewall, it's well boxed and can even take some compression on the side which is VERY common when shipping. Overall the design of the packaging is pretty much standard for models now, with everything in plastic bags and taped into position to minimize rubbing (and leave air around the edges for inevitable dents to the box). Thunder Power stands behind their products, I wouldn't worry too much about shipping damage ;-)

Jack
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 09:22 PM
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Miramar, Florida
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Originally Posted by ddahl View Post
After many years of R/C helis, I've decided to delve into F3A...
A very nice plane to jump in with, you will love it!

Jack
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Repubblica Italiana, Piemonte, Torino
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Nice plane.. Mine is on the way.....
Do anyone use the 10s configuration? What motor do you use?

Thanks!
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:15 AM
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media, pennsylvania, united states
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116 Posts
Not to derail the thread, but quick question and this is the right audience (hey, it's SEBART related).

I bought a Wind 110 that uses two 4 cell packs whose leads are finished off with power pole connectors. Good news, it came with battery packs. Bad news, whatever was made to connect the batteries in series and then connect them to the power pole connectors on the ESC did not come with the plane. I haven't used dual packs before and haven't used that type of lead before. Can some take the time to show me or point me to a build thread maybe that explains what I'm looking for to finish this off.

Is this the crimp tool I want? What are modelers getting these at and what size are you ordering? 30 Amp?

http://www.powerwerx.com/powerpole-a...-contacts.html

How do I most efficiently make the adapter I need? What are most folks using for higher powered setups like this anyway to connect batteries and ESCs? I don't really like to solder so a crimp method is great to me!
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Westminster, CO
Joined Mar 2003
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Luckymacy,
Yes, that's the crimper you want. Works like a charm.

As to the contacts, I use the bigger ones (45amp) on my pattern planes. The wires on the batteries and ESC are bigger and they need the space that the bigger contacts have. Note: these 45amp contacts still use the same housing as the 30 amp variety.

I hope that helps.

flyingtomg
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 02:11 PM
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media, pennsylvania, united states
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingtomg View Post
Luckymacy,
Yes, that's the crimper you want. Works like a charm.

As to the contacts, I use the bigger ones (45amp) on my pattern planes. The wires on the batteries and ESC are bigger and they need the space that the bigger contacts have. Note: these 45amp contacts still use the same housing as the 30 amp variety.

I hope that helps.

flyingtomg
Thanks. Does anyone sell premade battery leads that combine the dual packs into a seriel power supply to the ESC using these connectors?

Can you send me a link to where you buy your contacts and other relevant supplies from?
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Australia, NSW
Joined Aug 2012
19 Posts
Hi,

I was thinking of using a 16x11 Mejzlik Carbon 3 Blade Prop on the Mythos, running on 8S.

Any thoughts or concerns?

Regards
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 04:25 AM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikiko View Post
Nice plane.. Mine is on the way.....
Do anyone use the 10s configuration? What motor do you use?
I know of a couple that are now 10s - and I am about to move mine from 8s.

Motor options tend to be at the lower end fo full F3A - just needs to be rear mounted, not too long, not too heavy - in 210 to 230 kv range. Options include:
  • EFlite 160
  • Extreme Flight 'Silver Bullet'
  • HiMax 6330 F3A
  • Possibly Motrolfly 5320 in 220 or 230 kv wind
  • Or consider the 'full' options like the Plettenburg etc.

I am moving for capacity for F3A - on 8s 5,000 40c in comp last weekend (relatively windy) I was ending in the 5 to 10% remaining on P schedule. Will move to 10s 4600 25 - 25c which weight the same and give the capacity buffer.

Gibbo
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