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Old Dec 09, 2012, 06:09 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by D.Yoder View Post
What would you say is the best way to re-level the swash. Ie is there a proportion way.. also the guys at the hobby shop told me to not ever move those. I trust you guys more though. Would you say my choice to do the cx3 upgrade was a good idea or would you go another route
unfortunately THAT is a philosophical question and there is not really a general answer for it - yes or no on that ALWAYS lies in the eye of the beholder.

Personally, I did probably EVERY upgrade under the sun for the CX2/3 AND the V4 ... except a working brushless set up ...
The result of the (literally) years over which I spent hundreds of $$$ to do this and write about it, is that there definitely are TWO KINDS of upgrades, the ones for function and the ones for looks.
Obviously the ones for looks cannot be justified by anything or anyone but the owner of the bird. Sadly, as long as you are really new to all this, the common opinion/belief is EVERY "upgrade" will actually improve both ... and I learned the hard way this is NOT NECESSARILY true ... but I dont really regret upgrading EVERYTHING remotely possible, I appreciate the learning experience.
So back to FUNCTION:
For that, I would say ...
  • CNC swash for larger "angle of attack" and to prohibit separation
  • Lower bladegrip in CF or Alum - but this of course only counts if you do a conversion to folding blades (which most people do as it definitely saves blades over time ... the folding blade conversion is an area where you can do a LOT of different things anyway)
  • upgrade motors (I always was happy with the Xtremes, but this is also a very personal area ... other people hate them ...)
  • extended inner shaft!!!
  • battery tray mod ... to be limited to the stock batteries is "just not cool" ...
All the other mods you can do (and that come to my mind) MAY have kind of a positive effect (apart from looks), but it is MUCH LESS obvious than the ones I listed ...

... but like I said, in the end, the only one who can "justify" the money that flows in a bird like this and why, will be YOU ...

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Old Dec 09, 2012, 07:13 AM
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I think it was just an intent on a mod that is KNOWN to bring BIG benefits, but Sven said "lower blade grip" You need upper and lower blade grips changed so you can use pivoting blades. We've mentioned this before because there are huge benefits associated with it.
Move you servo push rods to the center hole of the 5 available. It isn't too radical, but better than the first hole. After you move the servo rod, you may notice that your swash plate is no longer level or the heli pulls to one direction or the other. As long as you're fooling around with this, it's actually advantageous for your heli to have a slightly forward bias as this is the direction you will be flying in anyway. Get the heli up in the air and see if it is indeed flying in one direction more than the other. Before you even adjust the push rod to counteract this, try just sliding the trim slider under or on the side of the right stick to correct for what it's doing. If you see improvement, you know what link and in what direction. If moving the slider causes the servo link to move down, you know that link needs to be shortened, etc. Of course, it it's hard to get to the links and make adjustments because the canopy is in the way, then I say I told you so and you can buy a front canopy and boom instead.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:18 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Yoder View Post
What would you say is the best way to re-level the swash. Ie is there a proportion way.. also the guys at the hobby shop told me to not ever move those. I trust you guys more though. Would you say my choice to do the cx3 upgrade was a good idea or would you go another route
There is no doubt in my mind you will have to re-level the swash once you go out to the outer holes on the servo arm. Here's a link you can put in faves and print it out to take with you to a hall to trim your heli in.

I learned how to level my swash using this tutorial and I'm sure many of the other guys have as well. You are surely in luck as they use a CX2 in the tutorial.

Go to this link:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727689

Scroll down a bit and find "Tuning", then click on "Klondike's Swashplate Leveling Tutorial". IMHO, it's very detailed, easy to read and it doesn't get any simpler.

So, the guys at the hobby shop told you "not to ever move those."?? That is too funny. Me thinks they have the wrong job

Mike.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:30 AM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Winder Ga
Joined Sep 2008
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They prolly told him not to move them for a couple of reasons...

1. He would then have to re-level the swash.
2. Might cause binding of the swash.

Heck that is all I can think of at the moment. But, the fixed blades on his cx copter are more stabile than a folding conversion. Well, not much more. hahaha. But, they are readily aquired at the LHS.
Lee
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
There is no doubt in my mind you will have to re-level the swash once you go out to the outer holes on the servo arm. Here's a link you can put in faves and print it out to take with you to a hall to trim your heli in.

I learned how to level my swash using this tutorial and I'm sure many of the other guys have as well. You are surely in luck as they use a CX2 in the tutorial.

Go to this link:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727689

Scroll down a bit and find "Tuning", then click on "Klondike's Swashplate Leveling Tutorial". IMHO, it's very detailed, easy to read and it doesn't get any simpler.

So, the guys at the hobby shop told you "not to ever move those."?? That is too funny. Me thinks they have the wrong job

Mike.
Lol thanks for the write up... I think my next mod will be a canopy and tail boom. The one you guys posted from the extreme can I use my cnc battery tray with that?
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 07:43 PM
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Yes.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 07:51 PM
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well im in the process of moving my servo arms around using the write up and i noticed that sine i have the CNC Swash plate that the servo arms are pretty much at 90 where they need to be but my connector pieces are not at a 90 to the servo arms because it seems as though the swash plate has a little bit longer arms on it than the oem one. Would this be correct?
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 08:45 PM
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So here is where I'm at on the controls after my first test hover. Heli wants to spin to the left more than before. I followed the right up but please see above post
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:26 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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Center all your trims (except throttle. all the way down like you have it). Once your trims are centered on your TX, now power it up, your servo arms "must" be at 90*. If you must, position the servo arm more to the "upward" rather than "downward." Support the servo arm with your thumb or finger from moving while you remove the screw. Then manually try to level the swash with the pushrods.

BTW, That is NOT my write up on the tutorial. I think it's some nice guy called "Klondike"

Mike.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:49 PM
"whirlydude"
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Originally Posted by D.Yoder View Post
So here is where I'm at on the controls after my first test hover. Heli wants to spin to the left more than before. I followed the right up but please see above post
Also to add to Chaps advice, when you center the rudder trim lever, you will need to adjust the proportional mix trimmer pot screw on the 3 in 1 unit. Make small adjustments, and turn the screw opposite of the way the helicopter is spinning. Just as you did with the trim lever, so small adjustment clockwise if the helicopter is rotating to the left. Also you need to disconnect the power, then power back up for the proportional adjustment to initiate.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 06:34 AM
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Just to clarify for you, putting the slider under the throttle stick in the middle is necessary. It has nothing to do with the servos; it's a means of balancing the two motors so the heli does not want to spin in flight. Try putting the slider in the center before touching any pot. We also should have told you that the holes in the servo arms are usually on the tight side and might need to be opened up a touch so the rod doesn't bind in the hole. Be advised that nothing on this heli can stand any binding, especially the flybar.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 07:50 AM
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I haven't seen this before, but what a DEAL! You just have to be able to stomach the color

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Mode_2_.html
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
I haven't seen this before, but what a DEAL! You just have to be able to stomach the color

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Mode_2_.html
YEP' Jack that is one hell of a colour!! must have been chosen after the firms Christmas piss up!! Brit expression for party. LOL.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
I haven't seen this before, but what a DEAL! You just have to be able to stomach the color

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Mode_2_.html
That is embarrassing it is so uuugly. Priced right though. But, you can easily pick up a pristine DX6i now for just about $20 more used in the FS sections. And that includes shipping. So for about the same money.
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 12:22 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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But, the "orange ugly" is back lighted I don't think I'd be caught dead with that out in the field
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