Hi Everyone
Starting a new build thread for my Guillows Spitfire – I have the bug now – these Guillows kits are great! Attached some initial images of things so far.

Looking forward to watching this 400 series build as I work on my FW190. Your B17 was impressive.


Pete

Watching all the way..


Bill

Thanks Pete – what is your AUW target – I am going for retracts (using GWS PICO Mechanical Retracts) – Lipo is a 450mAh Hyperion 2S. Will have A/R/E and castoring tail wheel.
Bill – hope you enjoy!
Best
Charles

Cool! I'm signing in too.
This is one on my someday list.
It looks like the laser cut parts fit together very well, unlike the old die crushed crap.
I like your power system and retract ideas too.

I would suggest skipping the castoring tailwheel and connect it to the rudder. I tried a castoring tailwheel twice and the models were impossible to control on the ground. Full scale pilots have the use of the brakes for directional control and we have to rely solely on prop wash over the rudder.

Glenn

Subscribed

Originally Posted by Electriflier

Subscribed

ditto

Originally Posted by Spitfire1954

Thanks Pete – what is your AUW target – I am going for retracts (using GWS PICO Mechanical Retracts) – Lipo is a 450mAh Hyperion 2S. Will have A/R/E and castoring tail wheel.
Bill – hope you enjoy!
Best
Charles

I'm aiming for between 250g probably closer to 300grams AUW. I havent done my sums or put all the components on the scales yet.

For retracts I'll be building custom hinges (Sort of like Smokin' Beavers P51). Mainly taking this route because I have 6mm head room at the pivot point (about 10-15mm in from the leading edge). There are mechanical retract sets that would fit that but I fear they would be too light for ROG takeoffs.

Pete.

Hi Glenn – take your point on the castoring tail wheel, I'll do as you suggest
Pete your AUW estimates are in the same ball park as mine – I'm going to aim for the lower figure – Smokin' Beavers P51 build was stunning and was the inspiration for this build – if this turns out anything like I'll be happy
Best
Charles

Do you have room for the GWS 'blue' retracts? Might be a bit lighter than making wire and brass tube ones as Phil did.
Glenn

Hi Glenn – I'm going to use these GWS PICO Mechanical Retracts
Charles

The little black ones?
A bit of warning, those are extremely fiddly to get set up.
There is no overtravel in the mechanism and servo endpoints must be exact. They also don't 'lock' in position and when retracted the weight of the landing gear is borne by the servo full time.
The blue ones have a positive lock and some overtravel in the actuator allowing some leeway in the servo position and linkage geometry.
They are a much better unit, if they will fit your application.

Glenn

Originally Posted by glewis

Cool! I'm signing in too.
This is one on my someday list.
It looks like the laser cut parts fit together very well, unlike the old die crushed crap.
I like your power system and retract ideas too.

I would suggest skipping the castoring tailwheel and connect it to the rudder. I tried a castoring tailwheel twice and the models were impossible to control on the ground. Full scale pilots have the use of the brakes for directional control and we have to rely solely on prop wash over the rudder.

Glenn

I'm with Glenn on this one, I had a little castoring tailwheel on my Guillows Champ and it just didn't work at all.

Bill

Hi Glenn – I will look into the Blue GWS units, I'm sure that they could be made to fit – One question that I do have concerns the flat bottom profile of the wing – if this is built as per the kit, will it fly?

Charles

I'm not a big fan of that airfoil. It does generate decent lift at a the relatively slow speed of a rubber powered model.This is a good trait for rubber power because the motor delivers most of it's power at the start and you want the model to climb as high as possible.
For our application it has a speed/pitch sensitivity meaning the faster the model travels the more down elevator it will take to keep the nose down.
I had misdiagnosed this problem in the past as both cg and thrust line related and ended up with a model that would fly ok at full throttle but as soon as the power is cut it would drop like a stone.
I modify the airfoil to a Clark Y section by raising the leading edge. This usually requires cutting new ribs but it is well worth the effort because the model will fly much better.
Just looked at the plan and you could raise the leading edge off the board about 3/32". You will then have to add a sliver of balsa to the top of the ribs to compensate. Once the wing is removed from the board sand away the lower front portion of the rib to bring it up to the new leading edge position.

Glenn