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Old Oct 05, 2014, 05:43 PM
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United States, MA, Needham
Joined Apr 2013
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Star 45 build

I have just started a Star 45. My school gained access to a laser cutter and the only thing I could think of to use it for is for the parts of a hull. I found the CAD files for a star 45 here:
http://www.mainzone.com/star45frames/
This build will probably take a long time because I have never done anything like this before and I still have school.
My local club sails them so hopefully after the winter I may have a boat to sail.
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 11:09 AM
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Good luck. the Star is not a hard build. Since you are using laser cut parts, it takes some of the hard work out of it. If you need the files for the fin and rudder for cutting let me know and I can send you them as well. I am the guy who did all the cad work and am glad to share the files to help build the class.

John
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 03:09 PM
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United States, FL, Indialantic
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star 45

There are some new rules in place for building a star 45
check out the class website the new rules should be up soon.
or you could email class sectary about them.
Mike

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Old Oct 06, 2014, 05:11 PM
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The "new" rules are simply a inclusion of the existing rule interpretations into the class rules. Never a bad idea to read the class rules before building, but there should be no surprises in the changes.
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Old Oct 06, 2014, 07:08 PM
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Thanks so much for the CAD files. I never would have been able to do this otherwise.
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Old Oct 07, 2014, 06:27 AM
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SailingJunkie's Avatar
United States, CT, Essex
Joined Mar 2013
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Nothing in the "new" rules that should slow you down. I will be posting the rules rewrite in the files section as well as updating the AMYA link this week.

Chuck Luscomb
Star 45 Class Secretary
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Old Oct 08, 2014, 12:27 AM
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Here are my latest fin files. Rename to DXF by removing the .txt
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Old Oct 09, 2014, 08:12 AM
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Canada, ON, St. Catharines
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Way to go Captain Pique !

The Star 45 is one of those models that I would like to build myself. I like the idea of building the wooden hull. I will be watching your progress with great interest. You seem to have sparked a good bit of interest in other modelling enthusiasts too !
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Old Oct 20, 2014, 10:39 PM
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United States, MA, Needham
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I made some progress this weekend between my schoolwork and family events. I received my 1/8 and 1/16 balsa. I don't know what they are called but I glued in the strips which connect the plywood bulkheads together. I then sanded them flush. I still need to glue in the strips which ring the deck. I'll hopefully get that done this week and by next weekend I'll be on to planking.

For the sides I'm planning on just applying the sheets. I am going to plank the bottom though. What width should the planks be? I am using 1/16 balsa. I am planning on not using fiberglass on the hull and instead using many layers of varnish. Is that a viable idea?
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Last edited by Captain Pique; Oct 20, 2014 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2014, 09:58 AM
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If you are using balsa planks on the bottom I would use 3/32 thick. 1/16 is too thin and hard to sand. It just deflects and sands unevenly. I have used from 1/4 to almost 1/2" wide planks. The narrower give a smoother curve and wider goes faster. your choice on what works. I usually use between 1/4 and 3/8.
If doing balsa sides and bottom, you will need to add weight to get to the minimum hull weight of 16 oz. I would use a layer or two of 2 to 3 oz glass if using balsa. I came in right at 16 oz with 2 layers of 3.2 oz glass over 1/16 balsa planking. Note that I did weigh all my balsa before building and only used light wood. You could easily add 2-3 oz by using heavy wood.
I prefer cedar planks and ply sides. Slightly heavier, but seems to make a stiffer boat when done. The cedar bottom is easier to smooth as well since the planks dont deflect as much.
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Old Oct 21, 2014, 10:44 AM
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At what point in the building process does the hull need to weigh in at under 16 oz?
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Last edited by Captain Pique; Dec 01, 2014 at 02:07 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 21, 2014, 09:15 PM
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The minimum hull weight is 16 oz. for a wood hull that is the hull with glass and waterproofing, before you add all the parts like mast step, keel box, rudder tube, paint, etc.
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Old Nov 03, 2014, 10:18 PM
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Update:
I have fitted some time in between schoolwork. I finished the stringers and applied the sides and started planking. My plan is to use 1/16 balsa planks 3/8 of and inch wide for the bottom. Then I will cover the whole hull with a veneer to add a little strength but also to make it look very nice. This hull may be weak in the end so I may politely ask the guys at the pond not to T-bone me on purpose. This is my first scratch built boat so I'll learn from my mistakes and make the next one stronger.
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Old Nov 04, 2014, 11:28 AM
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If you do balsa underlay and veneer over the top, that should be plenty strong. I would not use 1/16 balsa as you will have a hard time getting it flat. If you insist on using it, you have to edge glue it or it will bow when you sand. that will lead to thin spots at the frames.
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Old Nov 04, 2014, 11:42 AM
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Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
Joined Jul 2011
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As the Star 45 class rules include a minimum weight for the bare hull, there is no advantage to building it light. If you build in balsa, even if you put veneer covering it, I suggest that you cover the outside with glass/epoxy. Stars hare quite heavy and a collision could spoil your day.

Also, I suggest that you build a flat cut-off at the bow so you can attach a bumper and shape it to the lines of the hull.

John
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