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Old Jul 18, 2012, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Kauaiguy View Post
I wonder if the aluminum case absorbs vibs better or worse than plastic and if the aluminum case has the lead slug inside?Also what's the weight penalty if any ?Alot of questions ?
Steve
Same questions here... seems the idea with the metal is to add weight to better absorb vibes. Also it is supposed to offer better shielding from RF interference and help dissipate heat better.

I have no idea how much RF and heat are issues for the gyro in the first place though to be honest. Here's that upgraded metal bottom for the Tarot ZYX I mentioned earlier. It touts those features as being the reason for its existence so perhaps there is something to it:

http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...&cPath=152_254

That ALZRC version does look nice with the metal case, but I'd agree the all black plastic one with the black face instead of the blue looks better. Looks aside how is it reading the face of the new one with the blue background? I read in the earlier review that it wasn't so easy to read the markings on the original ALZRC version that was black so I wonder if the blue is better than the black for readability.
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Kauaiguy View Post
I just ordered a Dfc swash to try on one of my 450's.Does Mks make servo horns designed to break away in a crash.I think that's what we need to help protect the servos.The Beam head uses a carbon piece designed to break in a crash that saves on damage( very effective).With the new swash I may see more damage than before?
Steve
Tarot makes them for the 450, but IIRC the MKS output splines are unique to MKS/KST etc.
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=8401
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by IFHELI View Post
The new 3GY arrived today. Now I have to decide which heli to install it on. It will probably go on my other MiniTitan. It has a metal bottom case, plastic top, and new blue sticker on top. Here`s two pictures
Thanks for the pictures. I'll add a link to the first post.
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by beenflying View Post
Tarot makes them for the 450, but IIRC the MKS output splines are unique to MKS/KST etc.
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=8401
Why not use break away ball links instead?

http://www.clubheli.com/Tarot-450-PR...02_p_4351.html
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 11:33 AM
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I have a set of those ball links, I think they only work with the regular Tarot fbl head, wouldn't work with my Dfc heads.Its a good idea, just wrong aplication.
I had a cyclic shake issue, it turns out that one of my battery's has a bad cell( shows full volts but one cell has no capacity ),the vib log showed my headspeed had droped 400 rpm and more at the end.With a good battery it's back to normal( love the vib log, good tool)!
Steve
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 04:52 PM
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The Black Widow arrived today. I weighed it and the metal case 3GY on a scale I have. The scale rounds by two grams so weight will be off 1gm +/-. The weight of the BW is 14 gms. and the 3GY is 20 gms. The metal case is adding 5-6 gms.

You can read the lettering on the blue easier than black. The BW is a dark red w/ white lettering.

The metal case 3GY comes with the metal plate to go between double sided pads.
The white USB cord is shorter also.
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 05:11 PM
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Here`s two pictures of the metal case
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 05:12 PM
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I find it kinda strange that the metal case would need/come with a metal plate.It would be interesting to try it both ways and check the difference with vibra-analysis ( with/ without the plate).Thanks for sharing the info, keep it coming!
Steve
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 05:27 PM
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Here`s how they compare to the BeastX....
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ridge_racer View Post
Maybe it is a good thing that I have that plastic gear as a fuse. I ended up doing some research and found out the cheaper plastic geared analog servo gear set has the same gear that I need. I still hate taking them apart but they seems to work find once the gear was replaced. No weird jitters.
I just had another D654 start to crap out on me, when I pushed on the servo horn it would travel in that direction them return. If I hadn't noticed this before I flew I would have crashed. Opened the servo and one of the motor wires fell off. Resoldered it (and the other for good measure) and that fixed it. I will continue to use it for a week or two till the new Ino Labs come in for my FLB upgrade but I'm throwing them in the trash after that.

The Solars have really bad wiring, particularly the motor wires. They use thin hairlike wires and very little solder and I don't think they are safe to use in a high vibration environment like a helicopter because of this.

Ironicly the Corona 929's I'm using in my backup HK beater helicopter that cost half as much as the Solar D654s have much, much better wiring. The wires are thicker and the tabs on the motor and pot are larger and hold more solder.
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Last edited by Atomic Skull; Jul 18, 2012 at 11:10 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Hobby King quality is actually getting pretty good.
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
I just had another D654 start to crap out on me, when I pushed on the servo horn it would travel in that direction them return. If I hadn't noticed this before I flew I would have crashed. Opened the servo and one of the motor wires fell off. Resoldered it (and the other for good measure) and that fixed it. I will continue to use it for a week or two till the new Ino Labs come in for my FLB upgrade but I'm throwing them in the trash after that.

The Solars have really bad wiring, particularly the motor wires. They use thin hairlike wires and very little solder and I don't think they are safe to use in a high vibration environment like a helicopter because of this.

Ironicly the Corona 929's I'm using in my backup HK beater helicopter that cost half as much as the Solar D654s have much, much better wiring. The wires are thicker and the tabs on the motor and pot are larger and hold more solder.
I should check mine. thanks for bringing it up.
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 04:14 PM
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Redundant post
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Last edited by Kauaiguy; Jul 19, 2012 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Reduntant post
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
I should check mine. thanks for bringing it up.
I resoldered the motor wires on all of mine (the motor terminals have tiny holes for the wires so it's not as hard as it looked at first) and then entombed the logic board and motor terminals in hot glue. I put a blob on the bottom of the logic board to entomb the pot wires coming off then put the logic board back in and filled the top with glue, then put the case bottom back on and wiped off the excess. They should be ok for a week or two till the FBL upgrade parts come in. I might reuse them in a foam airplane because I don't think they'll have problems in the long run so long as they're not used in a high vibration environment.

My theory is that it's the weak solder connections to those tiny motor terminals that's causing trouble (the pot terminals and solder joints to the board don't seem that bad but they're still delicate compared to the Coronas). Vibration weakens the solder joints over time and then the motor receives intermittent voltage when the servo is exposed to vibration which causes the servo to act more and more wonky as the motor is less and less able to properly turn the output shaft which progressively gets worse and worse till either the connection becomes so intermittent that the servo seems to go nuts or it just falls off and causes it to stop working.
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ridge_racer View Post
Currently I am using Solar D650 servos on the swash plate. I am a bit surprised its not flying that great for you BF. I feel this unit flies better than version 1. If it helps, I have the gains set to about 70%. Let me know if any of my setting would help.
What settings did you go with on your D650 servos on the HB800-FBL and the ALZRC 3GY V2 as far as the frequency (Hz)? I can't seem to find that info for the Solar servos (or the EXI digitals). I was planning on just starting at 65Hz and bumping it up until they got too warm and then back it back down. You would think a digital could handle 200Hz at least, but I'm seeing on the BeastX website's latest servo list that some digitals (Align DS410) are only recommended for 65Hz which I thought was odd.

Also, what are people using for the motor esc/throttle frequency in the Robird software? I'm assuming that has to do with the esc itself (HobbyWing Platinum Pro 40a in my case).

Thanks,
Anthony
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