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Old Yesterday, 12:27 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Oct 2013
472 Posts
Does anyone know where to get replacements for the little wheel collars? I just lost one on landing. If all else fails, maybe I can "borrow" one from another UMX plane assuming same size. Does anyone have recommendation for better, more secure wheel collar that fits those narrow gear?

One more question, does the CC use the same stock prop as Beast and Sbach?
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Old Yesterday, 01:45 PM
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Joined Feb 2014
44 Posts
Plastic earring stoppers. The ones your gf/wife has on the back of her dangle fishhook earrings. Perfect fit and it has not come off in 25+ flights.

My wife was not all to happy when her favorit earrings didn't have any stoppers any more. So be smart and ger some replacements.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BBQ..._SS115&simLd=1
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Old Yesterday, 01:55 PM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
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Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
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+1 on that.

They're even cheaper at craft stores, like Joann Fabrics.
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Old Yesterday, 02:18 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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pug your beast spinner looks exactly like mine!!!
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Old Yesterday, 02:32 PM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
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Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
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LOL

That's an old photo..........it got even worse..........until I finally retired her to the Honorably Discharged collection.
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Old Yesterday, 04:50 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,620 Posts
DZ,

You can also use the plastic 'wheel keepers' from the UMX Mig. In a pinch, I've also used the keepers from 1s planes such as the Sukhoi XP. However, they're a really tight fit on the CC's larger axle.

And yes - the CC uses the same 5" x 2.75" prop as the Beast & Sbach. However, there are much better props available. The GWS 5030 is considerably more efficient than the factory prop, so you get more thrust and longer flight-times. The 5.75" x 2.5" Pitts/Yak prop is unquestionably the best-performing prop for scale flying - but you need at least 1.5" diameter wheels for adequate clearance - such as E-flite Grasshopper 250 wheels, 1.5" DuBro Mini Lites, or Ben's scale 36" Alaskan Bushwheels.

Joel
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Old Yesterday, 05:05 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Oct 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
DZ,

You can also use the plastic 'wheel keepers' from the UMX Mig. In a pinch, I've also used the keepers from 1s planes such as the Sukhoi XP. However, they're a really tight fit on the CC's larger axle.

And yes - the CC uses the same 5" x 2.75" prop as the Beast & Sbach. However, there are much better props available. The GWS 5030 is considerably more efficient than the factory prop, so you get more thrust and longer flight-times. The 5.75" x 2.5" Pitts/Yak prop is unquestionably the best-performing prop for scale flying - but you need at least 1.5" diameter wheels for adequate clearance - such as E-flite Grasshopper 250 wheels, 1.5" DuBro Mini Lites, or Ben's scale 36" Alaskan Bushwheels.

Joel
Thanks for the info guys, I actually have UMX MIG wheels laying around somewhere, I took them off cause I prefer flying that in the grass park. I'll try those for wheel collars, of if I can't find them, will head to Joann fabrics for the earring backers you guys recommended.

I'll look into the 5030 props too. I have some spare Beast props laying around so that's why I was asking about that for short term replacement. I'm pretty happy with stock CC performance. But I mostly like to cruise with it and fly scale like fashion which is very satisfying (I use Sbach/Beast/Mig if I need more adreneline rush).

By the way, I am just now starting to experiment with the flaps. I am doing pretty nice landings using 50% flaps with 20% elevator mix (other than the wheel popping off but that was due to loose collar, not hard landing!), able to come down pretty steep and then flare into nice 3 point landing. Should I try to experiment with more flap than 50%? What are typical flap settings you guys use?
Thanks
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Old Yesterday, 08:20 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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DZ,

I set up fully-proportional flaps & assigned them to a slider on the back of my Futaba 10CHP. I programmed the flap curve so that the center detent is ~15 degrees, and full-flaps is ~40 degrees. I use 15 degrees for maximum-deck-angle takeoffs, slow-flight, and for landing on shorter runways. I use full-flaps on steep approaches (that's what full flaps is for).

If the plane balloons when you extend the flaps and/or when flying with them extended, you're simply flying too fast. You won't need the flap-elevator mix if you ease the power back & hold the nose up to slow the plane down before extending the flaps, and then use strict throttle-management when flying with them extended. BTW - using down-elevator with flaps just makes the plane fly faster. - which pretty much obviates the reason for using flaps in the first place.

Also - never abruptly extend the flaps all the way unless you've already slowed the plane down to the point where it's flying a few knots above stall, in a relatively steep descent. unless. Abruptly dropping them all the way is guaranteed recipe for a serious pitch-up if you're flying much faster than that. When setting up for a flap landing, begin to reduce power and ease the stick back a bit around halfway through the downwind leg to slow the plane down. Extend the flaps partially near the end of the downwind leg. Continue to slow down as you turn to base. Once you've slowed to approach speed, go to full-flaps if needed.

See the 'flying & landing with flaps' section of my CC handing checklist for a refresher on proper use of flaps.

Regarding props - the 5030 allows for slightly better scale-flight because you get more thrust at lower airspeed - which makes the plane appear to fly with more authority at closer to scale-appearing speeds. The Pits/Yak prop is actually much better in that respect. It even allows you to make the plane appear to labor near the top of scale Super Cub maneuvers such as stall-turns, hammerheads, and loops - much like the full-scale Super Cub does. (The full-scale Carbon Cub isn't rated for aerobatics, so doing a loop isn't technically scale - but doing loops, rolls, and spins is definitely scale flying for a Super Cub.)

Joel
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Old Today, 06:30 AM
Blue Skies
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined May 2012
1,156 Posts
I didn't realize my CC's rudder disconnected after a hard landing yesterday. After I took off again, the plane wouldn't respond to rudder inputs. I managed to land it and decided I wasn't ready to call it quits just because I had no rudder. I was able to turn using just ailerons but a mild wind kept me from practicing T&Gs. Gusts were about 8mph so after 2 batts I took it home, opened it up and sure enough, the control rod was separated from the servo. It looked like the thin wire from the servo slips into what looks like some CF tube at the end of the control rod. It sure is tough to line them up and slide together. I made sure the rudder was straight after binding before I added a drop of CA to the point where it goes in. I also added a drop to the aileron connection for good measure as well since I was already in there. There's not much room under the rod and I managed to not get any CA on the servo. This is my 1st time repairing such tiny control rods and servos. (After first getting the CC I had to move the elevator control rod to the most forward hole on the servo slider after running out of elevator adjustment on the control rod U-bend) Did I get it right or is there something else I should be doing?
Don
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Last edited by hifinsword; Today at 06:40 AM.
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Old Today, 06:44 AM
Blue Skies
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined May 2012
1,156 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dews View Post
Plastic earring stoppers. The ones your gf/wife has on the back of her dangle fishhook earrings. Perfect fit and it has not come off in 25+ flights.

My wife was not all to happy when her favorit earrings didn't have any stoppers any more. So be smart and ger some replacements.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BBQ..._SS115&simLd=1
Quote:
Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
+1 on that.

They're even cheaper at craft stores, like Joann Fabrics.
Thanks guys. I paid $1.50 for 6 of those recently but I think I'll need more soon. Once the originals are off, they seem to come off a lot easier. I'm amazed I actually found a clear plastic one I used to replace an original with. It was on the sidewalk near where I had the hard landing yesterday. I already ordered some more using the Amazon link.
Don
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