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Old Jun 12, 2014, 10:16 PM
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RotoRon's Avatar
United States, UT, East Carbon
Joined Jan 2014
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Originally Posted by Tom T View Post
I understand that Bob, and thanks for replying. But even -50 out of 10,000 is a pretty serious number. I dont have go pro or even want to mount one on mine (I just want it for some casual sport flying) and have read all the tips n tricks to shield the camera from RF interference. I guess I'm just being a little paranoid about it TBH, but with all the sue ass happy people out there its something we need to think about with these issues. Guess I own a 400 dollar paper weight with props.
Just bind with GPS off and fly around in stability mode. That way you are 100% in control and no chance of a GPS related fly away.
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Old Jun 12, 2014, 11:58 PM
Learning to crash
Tom T's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined May 2014
235 Posts
Thanks for all the replies guys. It boosts my confidence in the product. Saturdays my next available day (damn 70 hour work weeks are killin me right now) to take it to the field. Ill do as suggested and bind it without gps and give it a go. Dont get me too wrong, I really like the 350, and love my little nqx, I'm just a little leary of it auto slamming on the brakes again mid flight and tumbling to the ground again. I have extended the antenna through the body and have flown it around my small yard low n slow to check it. Youngest daughter asked what I wanted for fathers day Sunday, and I told her an extra 350 body lol. She sent me an email a while ago with the tracking number of the one she ordered. Bless her soul.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 07:13 AM
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4_Props's Avatar
United States, NY, Fulton
Joined Aug 2013
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Tom T. I haven't followed your entire thread but must assume that you had a crash. I'm not an expert but let me suggest this. Check your flight controls and calibrate anything that might need to be adjusted. In Smart mode and no wind bring the QX up to a hover about 6 -8 feet. Watch for any drift (front, back, side to side) if you don't hold still do the accelerometer calibration. Now watch the altitude and if it's not held stable do an pressure sensor calibration. Next still in Smart mode check that the QX travels true to the stick relativity direction you point it to. If this seems off do the compass calibration. All of these test are done in Smart mode with GPS on. Also if you have the v2 fw be alert for orange blinks as this indicates compass and GPS errors. You can even make these tests as part of your pre-flight routine as they are quick to do. Like an apple once a day keeps the doctor away.

A tuned QX is a happy QX.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 07:32 AM
Learning to crash
Tom T's Avatar
United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined May 2014
235 Posts
Yeah, had a crash last week as it did a full rear pitch on its own in a FFF , then recovered, but did it again 20 seconds later and went down to snap the front arm off from impact. When I received it I did all the calibrations except for the acceleration as I was a little confused (after reading many posts on exactly how to do it with FW 2.0). I just now bound it without GPS as suggested, and took it outside for a little test. It kept wanting to drift backwards and had to keep adding forward trim to the pitch. Up to about 7 or 8 clicks and it was hovering nicely (considering the small breeze this morning). So I guess I'll have to rebind it in GPS and do an acceleration calibration, and then go back to no GPS bind? Sure flies differently than with GPS enabled.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 07:42 AM
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oldsamer's Avatar
El Paso
Joined Jan 2011
246 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by duworm View Post
Has anyone had a motor mount fail? Where the motor pulls itself free from the mounting inside the arm?
snip
Sherman Knight
Team Horizon Hobby Sailplane
Yes, I've seen cracks in the motor mount posts. They are hi-lighted after oiling motor bearings (which attracts fine dust). After some tooth sucking, I've decided to fly to destruction.
Lower fuse probably has a 2 hour service life.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 08:16 AM
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United States, MD, Boyds
Joined Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom T View Post
Yeah, had a crash last week as it did a full rear pitch on its own in a FFF , then recovered, but did it again 20 seconds later and went down to snap the front arm off from impact. When I received it I did all the calibrations except for the acceleration as I was a little confused (after reading many posts on exactly how to do it with FW 2.0). I just now bound it without GPS as suggested, and took it outside for a little test. It kept wanting to drift backwards and had to keep adding forward trim to the pitch. Up to about 7 or 8 clicks and it was hovering nicely (considering the small breeze this morning). So I guess I'll have to rebind it in GPS and do an acceleration calibration, and then go back to no GPS bind? Sure flies differently than with GPS enabled.
Hey Tom, if it's drifting with the breeze, you may not need accerometer calibration. According to the manual, it's for problems finding home and motor cutoff during RTH (I thought it was to compensate for drift in dead-calm conditions as well, but the manual doesn't mention that).

I can't think of why yours would tumble out of the sky after coming to a GPS induced stop - I've never seen anything like that in the six months of flying (and crashing) mine. May want to video your next flights just in case - may help to capture the LED indications if you can.

Good luck!
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 08:43 AM
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United States, NY, Fulton
Joined Aug 2013
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All the calibrations are on video at the Blade web site.

http://www.bladehelis.com/Multimedia/Video-HowTo.aspx and more on the 2nd page.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 08:55 AM
Not Broken Means Fix It
Leo Trader's Avatar
United States, NC, New Bern
Joined Apr 2013
843 Posts
How Would You Repair This Crack?

I should listen to myself more. I've said I don't like carbon fiber props because of the damage they can inflict in a crash via rotational torque. So what do I do? Put on a new set of chicom CF props that really did come balanced---I could see where they had been sanded! Anyway, I was hovering around an abandoned golf course when the wind suddenly picked up...a lot. No problem, just land. Well, about 1 foot from touchdown a gust blew the 350qx over. No apparent damage, just a lot of dirt on the front prop trips. Cleaned it up and went home. I looked it over and could not see any apparent damage. Later that day I put the plastic 9x4.7s back on and took off. I immediately heard a buzzing sound. Landed and did a more thorough inspection. Although the crack in the body is clearly seen in the attached pic, it was hard to see without out the aid of a loupe.

How would you repair this crack? I'm taking the lid off anyway to replace the GPS antenna.

Sorry Wrath!
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 08:56 AM
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Shadrack's Avatar
Winnipeg
Joined Feb 2002
5,676 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom T View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys. It boosts my confidence in the product. Saturdays my next available day (damn 70 hour work weeks are killin me right now) to take it to the field. Ill do as suggested and bind it without gps and give it a go. Dont get me too wrong, I really like the 350, and love my little nqx, I'm just a little leary of it auto slamming on the brakes again mid flight and tumbling to the ground again. I have extended the antenna through the body and have flown it around my small yard low n slow to check it. Youngest daughter asked what I wanted for fathers day Sunday, and I told her an extra 350 body lol. She sent me an email a while ago with the tracking number of the one she ordered. Bless her soul.
Tom, your problem sounds like something that happened to me. Mine was caused by my bad solder job when I changed my connector to a deans. Completely my fault. Vibration caused a short at the connector which of course cut power. It dropped like a rock, flipped mid air onto it's back, and bounced on the grass.
Cracked arm. This was the first one with A props. I thought it was a glitch, sent it in to HH, they sent me back a replacement. B props.
Changed the connector again, double checking, and had probably 100+ flights.
I don't just drive it like I stole it, I drive it like I stole it from the Mob.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 09:06 AM
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Winnipeg
Joined Feb 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo Trader View Post
I should listen to myself more. I've said I don't like carbon fiber props because of the damage they can inflict in a crash via rotational torque. So what do I do? Put on a new set of chicom CF props that really did come balanced---I could see where they had been sanded! Anyway, I was hovering around an abandoned golf course when the wind suddenly picked up...a lot. No problem, just land. Well, about 1 foot from touchdown a gust blew the 350qx over. No apparent damage, just a lot of dirt on the front prop trips. Cleaned it up and went home. I looked it over and could not see any apparent damage. Later that day I put the plastic 9x4.7s back on and took off. I immediately heard a buzzing sound. Landed and did a more thorough inspection. Although the crack in the body is clearly seen in the attached pic, it was hard to see without out the aid of a loupe.

How would you repair this crack? I'm taking the lid off anyway to replace the GPS antenna.

Sorry Wrath!
I would use thin CA and kicker.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 09:09 AM
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4_Props's Avatar
United States, NY, Fulton
Joined Aug 2013
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Binding

I have the new DX6 for my QX and not sure I'm binding correctly. If I do a full bind by powering on the QX then the TX with the right stick held to the left for GPS and also holding down the bind button when powered on it binds good and I get a quick GPS lock. Nice.

But I'm told that I shouldn't need to bind every time I power on the QX. If I don't use the bind button, just hold right stick left and turn on the DX6 the QX just sits blinking blue. No bind tone and it doesn't go to a solid green.

I don't mind doing the full bind, it just takes 2 hands but doesn't flying. But the QX and TX should remember the bind as that's all I fly.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 09:11 AM
Not Broken Means Fix It
Leo Trader's Avatar
United States, NC, New Bern
Joined Apr 2013
843 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadrack View Post
I would use thin CA and kicker.
Thanks. I've used a thin CA called Hot Stuff to repair hairline cracks in gun stocks. I love the stuff..it leaches into the tightest hairline cracks but unfortunately I'm out of it and Brownells is the only place I know that sells it. Any other suggestions, especially if it's available at Lowes, etc? I'm an hour's drive to the nearest LHS.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 09:16 AM
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United States, CA
Joined Nov 2013
174 Posts
JB Weld works very well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo Trader View Post
Thanks. I've used a thin CA called Hot Stuff to repair hairline cracks in gun stocks. I love the stuff..it leaches into the tightest hairline cracks but unfortunately I'm out of it and Brownells is the only place I know that sells it. Any other suggestions, especially if it's available at Lowes, etc? I'm an hour's drive to the nearest LHS.
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 09:17 AM
Not Broken Means Fix It
Leo Trader's Avatar
United States, NC, New Bern
Joined Apr 2013
843 Posts
Maybe both CA and JB Weld?
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Old Jun 13, 2014, 10:11 AM
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SloHand's Avatar
Kingston, Ontario
Joined May 2007
83 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo Trader View Post
Maybe both CA and JB Weld?
Interesting. I have not crashed or even had a tip over with the shell that I have on my 350 now and I have the exact same hairline crack in the same location.

TomT, Can't remember which radio you are using. I have a new DX6 and had downloaded several spm files. With props off I bench tested all the switches to be sure they were doing what they were supposed to do. In one of the files the (normal) RTH assignment actual had throttle cut assigned to it. I'm glad that I had checked it out on the bench. Not saying this happened to you but it pays to check things on the bench with props off.
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