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Old Jul 31, 2013, 10:57 PM
to live and let fly!!
1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
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hi-tec hawkeye motor conversion

So I have seen someone with the same idea using the hi-tec hawkeye glider but with the motor being placed to the rear of the glider. I did not want a glider but a fast wannabe pylon racer that would also be able to do a bit of gliding.
With just $15 bucks for the air frame I started.

As for battery I wanted to use 3s 850mah which I already have.

Setup.

AX 1806N 2500kv Brushless Micro Motor (19g)

folding prop, used hobby people "dash prop" but the prop was too weak so I replaced the prop with 6 x 3 Electric Folding Prop from valuehobby.com using the dash prop housing. You will have to drill out to 3mm as the hole is 2mm.

Servos, 2x HK-5320 Ultra-Micro Digital Servo, 1 Hobby King 3.7g / .4kg / .10sec Micro Servo

ESC,TURNIGY Plush 10amp 9gram Speed Controller

Carbon Fiber Rod (solid) 2.5mm but you can use 1.5mm just had a 2.5mm laying around.

I will post more pics soon. just need to take them.
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Old Jul 31, 2013, 11:17 PM
to live and let fly!!
1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
203 Posts
video

Here is a clip with the dash prop, will post a better video with the new prop soon. sorry I know its hard to see this little fast guy

RC Hi-Tec HawkEye Glider conversion (2 min 5 sec)
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Old Aug 01, 2013, 12:22 AM
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1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
203 Posts
RC Hi-Tec HawkEye Glider conversion (2 min 5 sec)


with dash prop, will post a better video with the new prop soon. sorry I know its hard to see this little fast guy
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Old Aug 01, 2013, 02:03 AM
to live and let fly!!
1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
203 Posts
RC Hi-Tec HawkEye Glider conversion (2 min 5 sec)


with dash prop, will post a better video with the new prop soon. sorry I know its hard to see this little fast guy
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Old Aug 01, 2013, 09:59 AM
better at crashin than buildin
United States, TN, Luttrell
Joined Aug 2012
173 Posts
I wonder how nose-heavy it's going to be after mounting the motor and ESC in the nose. You might be able to shove the receiver back into the fuse, but your battery looks like it is forward of the CG. Now we need to hang big servos on the tail to balance it.
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Old Aug 01, 2013, 06:20 PM
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1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
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it is a bit nose heavy but the battery is right between the wing. will post more pics soon.
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Old Aug 07, 2013, 04:25 AM
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1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
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here are some pics, added some paint to the wings as well a carbon spar. This was just a prototype and could of been cleaner but I was just trying to see how it would fly and I must say its now one of my favorite planes to fly rolls, loops and as fast as a hawk.
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Old Aug 07, 2013, 07:00 AM
better at crashin than buildin
United States, TN, Luttrell
Joined Aug 2012
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Glad to see it all worked out for you.
Congratulations
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Old Aug 07, 2013, 07:58 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Thanks!!!
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 06:11 AM
JoethePlumber meet JoetheStack
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Apr 2013
81 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1flyguy View Post
here are some pics, added some paint to the wings as well a carbon spar. This was just a prototype and could of been cleaner but I was just trying to see how it would fly and I must say its now one of my favorite planes to fly rolls, loops and as fast as a hawk.
Did you modify the wing to flatten it/take the small dihedral out of it/introduce anhedral before installing the spar, or did you permanently flex the wing flat while installing the spar?

Do you think the exact location of the spar is critical? Or is a guess somewhere between 25% and 33% back from the leading edge just fine?

Does your wing come out? Or is the wing joined to the fuselage, permanently?

Do you still recommend that same motor? Whoops, I meant to say Do you anticipate an update to your recommendations regarding the parts list, such as motors?
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Old Dec 03, 2013, 03:25 PM
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1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
203 Posts
hey Joe,

I did flatten the wing by using the spar, its some were around 25%.dont think its that critical. they do not come apart.

I still recommend the same motor. I would play with non-folding props to see what speed you can pull. I liked the look of the folding prop.

CG is also around were the spar sits. I like it a bit nose heavy.
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Old Dec 12, 2013, 05:52 AM
JoethePlumber meet JoetheStack
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Apr 2013
81 Posts
Okay, thanks. My conversion is progressing nicely.

I am wondering whether to mount the motor at the nose, or on a pylon above the wing. There is a guy flying one of these at the Bowl with the latter, and it is really fast. I have not looked at it up close. I like your folding prop, but I am worried that I will lawn-dart the thing at first, which can damage the motor even with a folding prop. The main advantage of a pylon mount is a lot fewer broken props and motor damage less likely. But it seems to me that a pylon mount with this Hawkeye would strongly suggest a 3- or 4-bladed prop, because even a 5" prop would require an excessively tall pylon.

I pretty much went with your parts list, but for propeller. I wish I had a micro rx, but an orange 615 will fit okay I think. I used a 2mm rod for the spar, and the elevator bridge (see photo). I got a 3mm to 5mm prop adapter that fits the motor fine, but it is a bit enormous compared with the motor. Dang those servos are small! They fit in the wing just fine - flush.

I want to mount the elevator servo pretty far forward - I'm afraid hogging out the fuselage for it near the tail will weaken it too much. But with the motor in the front, the servo in the rear may be necessary to balance it, otherwise it might be a struggle to mount the battery further and further aft to get the CG in the right place.

The big cone (the spinner?) that many folding props have - does it kind of protect the motor? I'll take another look at your propeller in your posts above.

Thanks! I'm eager to fly this thing.
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Old Dec 12, 2013, 06:28 PM
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1flyguy's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jul 2013
203 Posts
hey Joe,

looking good! Yes I did one time crash but the motor was okay, Just needed new spinner and prop. I think the pylon mount might work out but at the end if you like my look go with it. Motor being so cheap why not?

As for the servo, you can see were I placed the my elevator servo for both CG and its the thickest part of the tail. As for the RX I would just remove the orange cover to save on weight. Cant wait to see more pics.
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Old Dec 13, 2013, 03:19 PM
JoethePlumber meet JoetheStack
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Apr 2013
81 Posts
Cool. Yeah I'm following your build and getting ready to mount the motor in the nose. I gotta run down to Berg and get a set of screws and nuts and washers for bolting the motor to the mounting plate (1/16" ply). Did you guess the thrust angle, copy the angle from another aircraft, or engineer it?

I'm going to have to cut the nose off real soon, and I'm getting butterflies in the tummy. Maybe I can embed the motor in the foam, then carefully cut away the minimum quantity of foam... ;-) ... or I could cut the nose off clean. In that case if I had to I could glue the nose back on and cut it off again in a different place. Sorry, please ignore my anxieties.

A 6 x 3 prop seems a little big for this motor, but I'm not claiming it is, especially since it works great for you. My other high-kV motors are a 2900kV and a 2700kV, and they burn up to 330W and 450W respectively. I have often driven a 6 x 4 prop with them, also 5.25 x 4.75 and 5 x 5. This motor is 2500kV, and probably won't burn more than 100W. I'm not sure what the corresponding proportional prop size would be, but I would guess sizes like 5 x 3, 4 x 4, maybe 3-blade 4 x 3. I guess there is a pretty big difference between 3, 4, and 5 inch pitches. Does anyone know of an applicable prop size calculator? I've used the one for multi-rotor when choosing parts for the quad-rotor, I guess that one would be a good sanity check at least. Okay, duh, the supplier page for the motor says "suggested prop: 5 x 3". Does the motor get hot running a 6 x 3? I was searching for folding props, I don't think I saw any smaller than 6 x 3. I guess what I'm worrying about is that to achieve the very cool look of yours the choice of prop & spinner cone might influence the location of the motor mounting plate. If so I should wait to get the prop setup before installing the mounting plate.
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Last edited by Joe the Stack; Dec 13, 2013 at 04:02 PM. Reason: avoid multiple posts containing little new information
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Old Dec 13, 2013, 06:05 PM
JoethePlumber meet JoetheStack
United States, CA, Pasadena
Joined Apr 2013
81 Posts
Okay, I removed the case from the rx, put some heat shrink around it,and put the rx over the battery just aft of the cockpit, and I mounted the ESC on the ceiling of the canopy.

Probably to get the CG in a good place (with the parts taped in place it was a bit nose-heavy) I would want the motor as far to the rear as possible, but I don't want to chop off the whole nose section.

Given the fuselage shape, where do you suppose the ideal location for the propeller to be? The hub of the prop right at the tip of the nose, or the spinner tip right at the tip of the nose (replacing the nose), or the hub of the prop just forward of the tip of the nose? If it is too far to the rear, the prop would be blowing air against the firewall, as it were, and the plane would look funny.

So I think what I'll do is mount the prop adapter as far onto the shaft as it will go, then position the motor mounting plate so that the hub of the prop is just aft of the original tip of the fuselage, and just forward of the plane formed when the nose is cut off leaving a 1" diameter surface, and then remove as much foam as required to make the necessary clearance for the motor. If I am careful I can leave the exterior surface of the fuselage unchanged, and the motor will be inside it located just forward of the end of the cockpit. At that point I will inspect for air flow at the motor, and add some vents if necessary.

Dang. 3pm already. Guess it won't be in the air today. If I depart for the Bowl immediately, I'll have barely over an hour of daylight. Winter sucks. I know, it's a lot worse other places.
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