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Old Feb 15, 2012, 11:01 AM
Hobbico Employee
Champaign, IL
Joined Sep 2006
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Originally Posted by antennahead View Post
I purchased the micro fokker with anylink, and tried last night to bind the plane using my Futaba 6ex 2.4 radio. I can't seem to get the plane to respond. the green LED on the anylink TX comes on solid, but when I plug in the charged lipo to the plane I can't get it to respond. My first question....Should I have the trainer function in my radio turned on or should it be at the factory default of inh? Also, acording to the directions, I should hear a beep from the anylink tx when I turn on the radio but it doesn't beep, only the LED turns on green. I would like to check the rx, but it desn't look easy to get to.
It sounds like AnyLink is not getting signal from the 6EX. I have a couple of things your could check to see if it alleviates the issue. To answer your question about the trainer function, you should leave the trainer function "INH" on the transmitter, it only makes a difference on some of the bigger transmitters from Futaba like the 12FG.
I suspect that one of the pins in the plug on the end of the adapter cord has been dislodged from its proper position. Remove the square trainer plug adapter and see if any of the pins inside the plug look like they have been pushed back upon installation. If so, you can open the housing of the plug on the cord, gently push the pins back into place, then drop a little 6-minute epoxy on the back sides of the pins to keep them in place. Please share your findings.
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Old Feb 15, 2012, 09:12 PM
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antennahead's Avatar
USA, IL, Lake Forest
Joined May 2007
1,290 Posts
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Originally Posted by dieter88 View Post
It sounds like AnyLink is not getting signal from the 6EX. I have a couple of things your could check to see if it alleviates the issue. To answer your question about the trainer function, you should leave the trainer function "INH" on the transmitter, it only makes a difference on some of the bigger transmitters from Futaba like the 12FG.
I suspect that one of the pins in the plug on the end of the adapter cord has been dislodged from its proper position. Remove the square trainer plug adapter and see if any of the pins inside the plug look like they have been pushed back upon installation. If so, you can open the housing of the plug on the cord, gently push the pins back into place, then drop a little 6-minute epoxy on the back sides of the pins to keep them in place. Please share your findings.
That was it! I took a close look at the adapter cord and found a few of them pushed back, once I opened the plug up, 2 of the three pins that were pushed back weren't used, but the one with the white wire was. it was probably just my ham fisted fault for not lining the plug up before I pushed it in, but once solved, my little DR1 came to life THANKS!
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:03 AM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
Joined Aug 1999
2,367 Posts
I setup the F-86 with my JR 9303 2.4 no problem except I did need to change to the alternate channel mapping.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:09 AM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by wlester View Post
OKay, I am beginning to drool.... If this thing will work with my Polk Tracker II
I know the programing should work. PPM is easy.
Trainer port is available. It's NOT in the list of compatable radios. But might be because it's no longer available.

Anyone tried it yet with a Tracker radio?
I just set up my Tracker III to work with the Dr 1/AnyLink. I made myself the equivalent of the Futaba round interface cable (out of stock until mid-March). You have to turn the Tracker on in "Student Mode" to get a signal out the back (not sure if this is the same on a TII or not). Set it up to mix 1->4 to get rudder on the right stick and all is goodness and light! LOVE IT! Love the plane too!
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 12:11 PM
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Sugar Grove, IL
Joined Sep 2006
139 Posts
Thats awesome to hear about the Tracker. I too have a Tracker III already modified to run stock 72, alternate 2.4 Corona via the trainer port. So you don't really need to do anything then to get it to work powerwise?
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by village_idiot View Post
Run battery + and battery - and radio ground and radio PPM to the connector at the module. Battery - and radio ground go together on the same terminal. It will probably run on anything over about 4 volts but would be safer on 5 to 6 volts.
I am not following this what is the radio PPM and where does the radio ground come from the radio? Would it be better to run it of of a 1S lipo battery (4.2V) or 2S (8.4V).

Does anyone have a picture?
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 12:50 PM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined Feb 2012
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Nothing more is required on the Tracker III than the appropriate cable. The trainer plug has Bat+ on pin 1 (when turned on, even in Student Mode), ground on the shield, and signal on pin 4 (only when in Student Mode). I also have this model configured with Simulator turned on so it won't try to transmit if I miss holding the "B" key while powering on (to turn on Student Mode)! Based on past experience with these transmitters in Student Mode and the lower power required by 2.4GHz, I expect transmitter battery life will also be significantly longer.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 02:43 PM
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United States, ME, Bangor
Joined Jan 2004
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I want one of these for my Hitec Optic6 but the cable won't be available until mid march. How hard would it be to make one up? I have a din plug from an old Futaba radio but have no idea what wires would have to go where.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 08:45 PM
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OK, keep in mind that I don't have one of these devices and at this point I have decided I will not buy into this system so this is probably the last post I will make on this subject and the last PM I will answer about it because I just can't provide more accurate information. As said many posts back, you need a regular Futaba style servo connector with the tab on the side, and I can't tell you which side of the connector has PPM and which side is ground so you'll need to figure some of this stuff out on your own. I can also only guess that you need somewhere above about 4 volts, I think a 2s lipo that many people probably have in their pile of stuff would be fine, not sure what size you should have so you will need to run the system until you see the voltage go low by measuring with a voltmeter. 2s LiFEPO4 would be a better choice, as would 4 or 5 cell Nicad/Nimh pack. You are still going to have to time your flights to make sure you will have continued operation for safe landings.

Also again this information comes from a previous post, make absolutely certain that the power and ground are on the correct pins at the anylink end, you should verify this before doing anything, my diagram could be wrong so check everything. Remember, I do not own one of these and probably never will own it.
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Last edited by village_idiot; Feb 19, 2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
Joined Aug 1999
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Originally Posted by jimsinva View Post
Nothing more is required on the Tracker III than the appropriate cable. The trainer plug has Bat+ on pin 1 (when turned on, even in Student Mode), ground on the shield, and signal on pin 4 (only when in Student Mode). I also have this model configured with Simulator turned on so it won't try to transmit if I miss holding the "B" key while powering on (to turn on Student Mode)! Based on past experience with these transmitters in Student Mode and the lower power required by 2.4GHz, I expect transmitter battery life will also be significantly longer.
Hey thanks for the tip about Student Mode with the Tracker III. I could never get my Plantraco monolith to work with it. I tried Student Mode and TADA it works.

Pete
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by village_idiot View Post
OK, keep in mind that I don't have one of these devices and at this point I have decided I will not buy into this system so this is probably the last post I will make on this subject and the last PM I will answer about it because I just can't provide more accurate information. As said many posts back, you need a regular Futaba style servo connector with the tab on the side, and I can't tell you which side of the connector has PPM and which side is ground so you'll need to figure some of this stuff out on your own. I can also only guess that you need somewhere above about 4 volts, I think a 2s lipo that many people probably have in there pile of stuff would be fine, not sure what size you should have so you will need to run the system until you see the voltage go low by measuring with a voltmeter. 2s LiFEPO4 would be a better choice, as would 4 or 5 cell Nicad/Nimh pack. You are still going to have to time your flights to make sure you will have continued operation for safe landings.

Also again this information comes from a previous post, make absolutely certain that the power and ground are on the correct pins at the anylink end, you should verify this before doing anything, my diagram could be wrong so check everything. Remember, I do not own one of these and probably never will own it.
That diagram is exactly right! I actually got it all wired up tonight and it works. Using a small 2S 360mah rhino battery connecting via a JST connector.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:03 PM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by village_idiot View Post
..... As said many posts back, you need a regular Futaba style servo connector with the tab on the side, and I can't tell you which side of the connector has PPM and which side is ground so you'll need to figure some of this stuff out on your own. .....
The AnyLink end uses the same convention as a standard Futaba servo -- the tab (outermost on the AnyLink housing) is the trainer signal (typically white or yellow), center is Bat+ (red), and the non-tab side is ground (black or brown). A good source for trainer plug wiring is http://www.mftech.de/buchsen_en.htm.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Joined Jun 2009
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I have the Any Link and a DR-1 Flys great. I am using a DX6i. (5v)
I have an old DX6 that I would like to dedicate to the Any Link.
Are you sure the 9.6v of the DX6 won't fry the Any Link?
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 06:51 AM
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NorCal
Joined Oct 2002
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Originally Posted by Stew.Meyers View Post
I have the Any Link and a DR-1 Flys great. I am using a DX6i. (5v)
I have an old DX6 that I would like to dedicate to the Any Link.
Are you sure the 9.6v of the DX6 won't fry the Any Link?
It's listed as a usable transmitter along with the DX6i and DX7.
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Old Feb 17, 2012, 07:08 AM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
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Works fine with my 9303.
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