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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:01 AM
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So what's Next.


Don't do anything else to repair the boat.

Instead, please post photos of the rig and sails you have for the boat.

If the rig is trashed, it will cost around $300 to replace it.
In that event, you might be best to sell your Orbit as-is and not bother with repairs.
But, hopefully the rig is good, and a refurb of the boat won't cost much.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breakwater View Post
So what's Next.


Don't do anything else to repair the boat.

Instead, please post photos of the rig and sails you have for the boat.

If the rig is trashed, it will cost around $300 to replace it.
In that event, you might be best to sell your Orbit as-is and not bother with repairs.
But, hopefully the rig is good, and a refurb of the boat won't cost much.
I have three sets of rigs, all in very good condition. A full carbon A+ mast sail boom combo thing, an A and I believe a B.

Will grab pictures before I head off to work today.

As for the deck I was looking at it more closely last night and the damage doesn't look "that" bad. Forward of the keel strap it is in perfect condition, a bit of vinyl tape and it'll be good to go. I think I could do with just a framing diagram (if they still exist) so I know where to epoxy in replacement frames and how big to make them in the stern.

- Wolf
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 12:42 PM
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Here are those pictures.

Turns out I have "A+", "A" and "B" rigs.



This is the "A+" rig, by far the one in the best condition, needing nothing except for tuning. I forgot how big this one was!



This is the "A" rig, from the looks of it is is in working order.



And here we have the "B" rig, this one will need work as some wires have become detached.



Close ups of the bottoms of the "A" rigs.


All the rigs are structurally sound with the stays and spreaders in good or above average condition. All the sails are solid.

- Wolf
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 09:37 PM
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Great.
The parts look all there for the most part.
The rigs are pretty dingy, but they can all be cleaned up with time.
You just found what would have cost you about $900 to build.



Now, Next.
1. PM Me your email address. I will email you the construction plans from Bob Sterne pertaining to the rigs.

2. Take all of the rigs and put them away, FAR away in storage, in a place you will forget about them. We will now move onto the boat.
When the time comes, You will be working with ONLY the A+ swing rig. that's because that rig does not require any tuning after you have tuned it once properly.

Make sure the luff tension is OFF on all of the sails before you put them away. Do not have any tension on your sails in storage or they will stretch.

To store your sails, see the attached photo. Rigs like to be hung from the masthead crane.




After your rigs are properly stored, clear out a good work space to work on your boat.
When you have stored the rigs, and are ready to go on a work-space come back here and tell me that you've done so, and are ready to go. Then I'll tell you how to get started on the boat.

Don't just jump into it if someone reccomends something. Think about what you are doing before you do it, and you will end up with a seriously awesome model yacht.

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Last edited by breakwater; Jan 10, 2013 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 10:13 PM
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Nice sails breakwater. My sails are safely stored in my "hopefully' feline assailant proof resistant containment unit (aka my closet) =P

As for my work place I suppose my bedroom would be as good a place as any as my workshop/garage just flooded... I can set up a work table easily enough.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 07:41 PM
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Have you cleared out a good workspace and are ready to go?
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 11:43 PM
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Have you cleared out a good workspace and are ready to go?
Yeah, I've it set up in my room, plenty of work space.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 09:17 AM
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Cool.
The first thing you want to do is to carefully remove all that old black tape around the outside of the hull. The white decking material in the middle should come along with it, and definetley the black on the foredeck.
Do it slowly and carefully and make sure nothing extra peels away with it (more of the thwarts)
-You will most likely need to un-screw the Jib-Rack. Do this carefully, and store the rack with the screws in a ziplock bag somehwere that you won't lose it.

You probably will have to take a run to the hardware store, and pick up some "goo-gone" spray that lightly where the black tape was, and remove all the old residue from the sticky side of the tape.

Post up some pictures when it's complete and let me know when that part is done, and we'll move-on.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 09:24 AM
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Cool.
The first thing you want to do is to carefully remove all that old black tape around the outside of the hull. The white decking material in the middle should come along with it, and definetley the black on the foredeck.
Throw this stuff right in the trash-can by the way. It can't be re-used.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 10:21 AM
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Well I got the deck sheet off. I've a bit of re-gluing to do around the foredeck gunwale but as you can see it is mostly intact, apart from the rear framing.




Eventually I'll need a new batt and a way to test the running gear but that isn't now.

- Wolf
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 02:01 PM
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Ok, next is to take an exacto knife and lightly cut away the remaining white decking material on there. Try and get all that junk out.

it's probably glued on, so be careful. The wood underneath is most likely balsa. It's probably sealed, but a slip with the knife and you'll cut deeply into it.

You could also put sandpaper (about 220 grit) on a putty-knife and run it up & down the gunwhale to get that stuff off.

All that stuff has to come off as you'll eventually re-seal Monokote to the deck, and it needs to adhere to that surface.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by breakwater View Post
Ok, next is to take an exacto knife and lightly cut away the remaining white decking material on there. Try and get all that junk out.

it's probably glued on, so be careful. The wood underneath is most likely balsa. It's probably sealed, but a slip with the knife and you'll cut deeply into it.

You could also put sandpaper (about 220 grit) on a putty-knife and run it up & down the gunwhale to get that stuff off.

All that stuff has to come off as you'll eventually re-seal Monokote to the deck, and it needs to adhere to that surface.
Shouldn't I try working on repairing and replacing the broken cross frames and gunwales before worrying about the decking prep?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:17 PM
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Shouldn't I try working on repairing and replacing the broken cross frames and gunwales before worrying about the decking prep?
Surely the thwarts are important, but it's always a good idea to finish one thing before moving onto the next.
Otherwise.. everything will be complete. Just halfway complete.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 01:19 PM
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Spiritwolf, It'll be a lot easier to replace the thwarts, and make a cleaner job of it, when you get all the old junk off. You surely don't want to reglue all that white junk back in, and it'll make redecking go a lot smoother. Good luck!
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 09:35 AM
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Spiritwolf, It'll be a lot easier to replace the thwarts, and make a cleaner job of it, when you get all the old junk off. You surely don't want to reglue all that white junk back in, and it'll make redecking go a lot smoother. Good luck!
Yes, that as well.

let us know when you're ready to move on.
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