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Old Mar 09, 2014, 05:34 AM
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A1TANGO's Avatar
Joined May 2010
179 Posts
All good mate, glade your back at it ...
Nce to hear you had a great ship cruise vacation ...

Looks like it will be done and finish soon ... Keep the good work my friend !
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Old Mar 20, 2014, 12:16 AM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
Gang,
Sorry for the delays in posting. Work has kept me super busy and with a lot of travel. Also our company is selling our building here in Washington so we have to move to Oregon. Luckily I don't have to be down there till end of this year, but to take advantage of the buying season (Late spring/early summer) I need to start working on getting our house ready to be on the market soon.
I've done some work on the 737 but it's mostly been with trying to get the elevators ready for painting. This has been a lot of work as I had to splice the pieces together and this required several coats of finishing epoxy which then was mostly sanded off in order to fill in all the gaps and holes.
I was at Cliff's this last weekend but we spent all day on getting their new Super-scale Jayhawk's tail wheel more scale. The one that comes with the kit doesn't extend down like the real one so I had to custom build one. It took several days of working at home and then that day at his shop to get it mounted in the fuselage. Have to say it really turned out nice and will try and get some pictures of this next time I'm in his shop.
I'll try and post some pictures of the 737 this weekend.
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Old Mar 29, 2014, 05:53 PM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
OK been a while since I've posted so thought I better get on the stick.
Work has been pretty insane so not too much has been done.
Since my last post I've focused back on the elevators still trying to get the hinge configuration set up.
If I would have realized up front how much work modifying the stabilizer/elevator was going to be, I would have probably just gone with some balsa stock and formed my own elevator.
Splicing the elevator pieces together was a pain and this hinge thing is pretty much driving me to insanity!
But since everyone has already told me I am insane, I figure I have nothing to lose so am plugging ahead.
So to get the hinge set up in the elevator, I went with some nyrod and notched some hard balsa and have glued this all up.

Hereís the steps that I took to make the elevator leading edge hinge. Since this is what I want it to look like:


I had to come up with a way to build up the front of the elevator while also making sure that the hinge was going to be centered and straight.
So first step is getting some rectangular 1/4 x 1/2 hard balsa stock in which I found the center of the Ĺ surface using this tool:


Given that the Nyrod outer dimension was 1/16Ē I found the center and made a 1/16 wide mark on this centerline and then proceeded to make a notch using a round file. It was important that this notch be straight and that it be centered.


This notch has to be deep enough to allow the nyrod to be fully seated.



This gave me a slot in which I then epoxied the Nyrod rod into. (Note prior to gluing I passed a ďstraight .062 music wire rod through the nyrod to make sure it was straight when gluing)
Hereís a picture of all the pieces that make up this hinge:

Top and bottom pieces are the elevator, the next piece is the ľ x Ĺ hard balsa with the notches. Next piece is the nyrod (Yellow tube) with a short brass tube on one end (Will explain this later) the next piece is the .062 music wire. This was to make sure that the nyrod was straight and that the brass tube lined up with the center of the nyrod.

Hereís a close up of the pieces.


The elevator control rod ends that go into the elevator I made fairly long so I wouldnít have to worry about them punching through the elevator.


Hereís how all the pieces fit in the notch in the balsa wood.


Before gluing these pieces in I coated the brass piece with Pam cooking spray and then wiped off the excess this is because I donít wonít the brass piece to be glued in. I needed this brass piece to provide a seat for the elevator control rod that would line up exactly with the center of the nyrod.

Since I also wanted to make sure everything was straight I found several pieces of aluminum channel and used these to clamp the pieces into the notch. Since I didnít want these pieces being glued to the aluminum channel I taped one side with strapping tape as I found epoxy does not stick to this at all.


Hereís everything glued and clamped.




Later this evening Iíll unclamp everything and post some more.
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Old Apr 05, 2014, 03:22 AM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
OK so here is the elevator leading edge/hinge assembly all glued up




What you see in this picture is the nyrod tube glued up to a certain point which is where the torque goes. The brass tube is only temporary and is there to form a seat for the torque rod that is aligned with the pivoting point. When gluing I slipped a .062 music wire through the nyrod and through the brass tube which made sure everything was going to be in alignment with the pivoting point
Here’s a picture of the brass tube taken out on one side and the torque rod placed.




Kinda hard to tell but the place where the nyrod is glued is flush with the top of the wood.
The reason for this is that when this piece is glued to the leading edge of the elevator it provides a flat surface to bond to the elevator.
Everything is all glued up in this picture



Here’s what the elevator leading edge looks like glued in place


Here’s a close-up of the leading edge



Here’s a picture of the leading edge rounded




Here’s the hinge rod laid up against the elevator. You can see how long this hinge rod is.



Here’s the hinge rod inserted through the elevator up to where the torque rod goes horizontal into the elevator



Here’s the horizontal stabilizer spars. Due to the dihedral I had to modify the ends.
The small rectangular pieces are the torque rod supports and the funky looking things in the middle are the center stabilizer hinge supports.



Here the horizontal stabilizer plywood hinge support is placed. Still has to be trimmed to be recessed to the proper location



Here it trimmed and sitting where it’s supposed to be. (The pivot hole still has to be drilled)



Here’s the torque rod supports notched to take the torque rod




Here’s all the pieces that make up the torque rod support assembly.
Those rectangular black looking things are aluminum that was cut and drilled. These pieces will hold the torque rods in place once screwed into the wood pivot blocks



Here’s how the assembly will look


These pivot blocks will be epoxied into the stabilizer.

Here’s the center stabilizer hinge supports are drilled and in which a nyrod bushing will be pressed and glued into it.


Here the nyrod is pressed in, glued but still needs to be trimmed flush with the sides.




Here everything is lined up and glued.




Next step is to cut a notch in the elevator to accept the center stabilizer hinge. Will do this tomorrow once the epoxy is all dry.
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Last edited by gugie; Apr 05, 2014 at 08:11 AM.
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Old Apr 06, 2014, 12:57 AM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
Iíve notched the elevator and have assembled the left side:

The right elevator and stab have been modified and assembled also.
Iíve added the servo mounting blocks and have a preliminary assembly



Heading to Cliffís in the morning where Iíll finish adding the elevator linkage, paint the elevator/stabilizer, finish adding the decals, add the front gear doors and balance the plane.
Cliff's planning on taking it to the show.

Will post some more pictures tomorrow evening
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Old Apr 06, 2014, 11:40 PM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
Finished the stabilizer including painting it.
Got the servos screwed in, built the linkage from the servo to the torque arm and programed the servo for reverse. These Atlas programmable servos are awesome! You can actual make a bunch of settings in the servo without having to do any setting on the transmitter. In this case since I had to make one servo had be reversed in order to get the elevators moving in the same direction, so downloaded some software and got the little programming chip and did it all on my laptop with the servo plugged in to this board, easy and very quick.


Turned out OK but will need to repaint it as there are a couple of spots that are showing some scratch marks and one spot that needs to have some filler added.


Now itís ready for the show.





Cliff will be disassembling it and shipping it to Atlanta later this week. Itís not really ready for a flight yet as we need to get the battery trays installed and a few other things taken care of but itís ready for a show,
While I worked on the stabilizer Cliff finished putting on the remaining decals.
Iím out of town on business for the next several weeks and on vacation the week after that but when we get together next weíre going to add landing lights in the leading edge of the wing and the retract landing lights under the wing and the front nose gear doors. Then off to the flight line!!!!
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 08:21 AM
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PC Pilot's Avatar
United States, AL, Phenix City
Joined May 2013
140 Posts
Fabulous airplane.

I see you still have the brass assembly on the rudder servo. Did you retain the original square brass shaft or added the universal joint?
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Old Apr 07, 2014, 09:55 AM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
PC Pilot, I kept the rudder linkage as is because it works and there is no binding. If I was to do it a again I would go with the U-joint just because it would have made the installation a lot easier. For this plane I spend a lot of time making sure the alignment was spot on and the rudder has to be securely mounted as well as guides to make sure that the rudder is always in alignment with the servo shaft. This combination works really good and still allows the rudder to be easily removable. (But anyone trying it this way needs to do a lot of planning and have patience to trial fit every little step to make sure it's all going to come together in the end)
I'm not sure what the factory is doing the rudder hookup but would imagine they'll do a conventional linkage set up.
Still amazes me that these little wings are going to keep this plane in the air. Cliff's not worried as he's flown the prototype at the factory and said it flew great except for the elevator which needed more surface which we fixed on this version. This model weighs just a little more but has bigger fan units so we have the power.
Wife was happy to finally have this off our dining room table (since we hardly used it, it's been a great work station for me just had to keep it clean) and since we're getting ready to sell our home and move, timing on getting this in Cliff's hands was pretty good.
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Old Apr 08, 2014, 06:32 AM
Registered User
United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
4,528 Posts
Very Beautiful! I have had a question in my mind this whole time I have been afraid to ask. Along the way, you did a lot of custom fitting and modding of this model. Is this normal for this kit or was this a pre-production kit? I was under the impression that RC Aerodyne models were more "plug and play" so to speak.
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Old Apr 08, 2014, 10:21 AM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
Shahram72, you're absolutely right in that his was a prototype. What I do is get these early prototype kits from Cliff and work all the issues out (figure out the problems, draw out the solutions, make the parts, take pictures and then give this information to Cliff who then works with the factory in getting these solution into the production kits) When I started with this kit it was pretty much just the fiberglass with everything painted. (Probably would hold off the paint till the end next time) I had to figure out how to attach all the moving surfaces as well as the rudder, elevator etc. There were no instructions, at least any that I could make sense of. Between taking a lot of notes, taking a ton of pictures and meeting up with Cliff almost every other weekend, we think we have everything the factored needed to know to make this a plug and play kit. Now not everything will be done the way I've done it. For example the rudder linkage as PCPilot put it could have been made a lot easier through some sort of U-Joint. At the time I was looking for something simple and would allow the rudder to be easily removable. While I've accomplished the last part the "simple" just didn't happen as it took a while for me to figure out how everything was going to be assembled while always staying in alignment. Same thing with the flaps. My goal was to hide all the linkages which I was able to do but again it was definitely a challenge. I'm not sure how the factory can do the same while keeping the costs down and still make it easy for the typical modeler. Will see when the kits start rolling out.
In talking with Cliff on Sunday he is expecting to have a plug and play as well as a kit.
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Old Apr 09, 2014, 10:05 PM
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Joined Apr 2014
9 Posts
Gugie, do you and Cliff plan on uploading a maiden flight video or footage with this updated model? I've been following and reading through this post quite a bit, and have learned a lot from your techniques used in working on this craft, and would be interested to see the results of your work!

PS. Have you guys worked out a detailed cockpit yet? I would very much love to fly FPV with a detailed cockpit!
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Old Apr 09, 2014, 11:34 PM
Gugie
United States, WA, Gig Harbor
Joined Sep 2004
103 Posts
Hal92 LOL boy do we think alike!!!

The detailed cockpit is in there.
Here's some pictures. Not the best but you can get a feel for what's in there.









As for flying FVP, that would be so sweet! (Hummmm have to think about this!)
Cliff has all the hardware for FVP, but first priority is to just get it in the air.

All that's really left is to get the battery trays installed and the nose gear doors. Everything else is just cosmetic. (Landing gear lights, scale antennas, interior cabin lighting)
Dang soooooo close to finishing this thing!!!
The plan is to get it back from the show, install the battery tray, nose gear doors and then fly it. I'm traveling for the next couple of weeks so we're looking at least three weeks out before we can do the above.
But trust me guys we will have some video
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