HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
This thread is privately moderated by c2po, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Old May 10, 2011, 11:46 AM
Sudden Freak
c2po's Avatar
Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
330 Posts
Mini-HowTo
How to make a ITG3205 breakout from WM+ with ITG3205

It seems that a lot of people using Wii Motion+ with blue board with ITG3205, so that info and a picture might be useful to some of you.

I used the photo taken from this post (not sure who's the owner, I can't read German):
http://forum.xufo.net/bb/viewtopic.php?p=173258#173258
and also was inspired by this post to follow those traces on the board:
http://wbb.multiwii.com/viewtopic.ph...start=60#p1003

I guess picture should be pretty much self explanatory.
Just connect four wires to whatever places you prefer, I think golden pads on the back side are the most convenient place for I2C wires (SCL to X2, and SDA to X3), and pins 1 for +3.3V and 6-7 for GND. You can also connect INT to X4 if you intend to use interrupts.
I2C adress of ITG3205 is set to 0x68 (AD0 PIN connected to GND).

All you need to do to isolate ITG3205 from the other chip is to take proper tools and desolder and lift three legs (2, 3, and 4, which are connected accordingly to SCL, SDA, and INT), or just brutally cut or tear out those three legs if you never plan to use WM+ as it was intended.

Don't forget to power the board from +3.3V, and not 5V, otherwise you might get very strange readings.
I connected the SCL and SDA directly to Arduino I2C pins and just disabled AVR built-in pull-ups, no level converter needed, gyro works just fine.


UPDATE (08/25/2011): Since my brief description in the post seems to be confusing sometimes, I'll try to summarize all the needed changes here:

- you have to connect SCL to X2, SDA to X3 (or you can use other spots on the other side that are shown on the picture in yellow and green color);
- you also need to connect +3.3V and GND to the appropriate spots on the board (shown on the picture with red and black color);
- you have to disconnect the other big chip from ITG3205 by desoldering or cutting pins 2 and 3 (shown on the right picture with yellow and green small circles);
- you have to power the board with the voltage in the range from +1.8V to +3.6V; do not power it with +5V, it won't work;
- I2C adress of ITG3205 is 0x68 (7-bit), or 0xD0 (8-bit), it is the default in Alex's MultiWii code, no need to change it;
- you need to disable Arduino I2C internal pull ups (comment out #define INTERNAL_I2C_PULLUPS line), since WM+ board has it's own pull-up resistors connected to +3.3V; otherwise Arduino internal pull ups connected to +5V will mess I2C bus.

After doing that mod you cannot connect Nunchuk to that board in passthru mode anymore.
If you want to use Nunchuk in standalone mode you have to connect it in parallel to the same Arduino I2C lines (SCL and SDA).
c2po is offline Find More Posts by c2po
Last edited by c2po; Aug 25, 2011 at 11:39 AM.
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 01, 2011, 01:25 AM
Registered User
Romania, Bucuresti, Bucuresti
Joined May 2011
3 Posts
Thank you so much for this solution!

It worked perfectly with a couple of WM+ that were giving me headaches.

Chris
chrisez is offline Find More Posts by chrisez
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 02, 2011, 09:11 AM
Sudden Freak
c2po's Avatar
Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
330 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisez View Post
Thank you so much for this solution!
It worked perfectly with a couple of WM+ that were giving me headaches.
Chris
Glad that it helped, I use a couple of those myself, works very well, just like the original ITG3200.
c2po is offline Find More Posts by c2po
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:45 AM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2011
1 Posts
Thank you! It helped me too!
But i couldn't connect nunchak correctly to such board! I think the problem is I2C address. Which contact must be connected to GND when using with nunchak?
kavex is offline Find More Posts by kavex
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 20, 2011, 08:38 PM
Sudden Freak
c2po's Avatar
Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
330 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kavex View Post
Thank you! It helped me too!
But i couldn't connect nunchak correctly to such board! I think the problem is I2C address. Which contact must be connected to GND when using with nunchak?
I2C address should not be a problem: ITG3205 is set to 0x68 on this board (since address pin is already connected to GND), and standalone nunchuk address is 0x52, the same as Motion+.
Remember that with this mod you have to connect both boards in parallel to the same I2C pins of Arduino board.
c2po is offline Find More Posts by c2po
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 24, 2011, 11:23 AM
Registered User
Boulybooly's Avatar
France, RA, Saint-Étienne
Joined May 2007
178 Posts
Hello c2po
I write for the second time because it is you who has spoken so far of this and what wmp nk blue. Correct me if I'm wrong. The wmp and nk and arduino must all be supplied with v 3.3?! how can I do from my issuing the BEC 6V. According to what I understand, my BEC powers the Arduino which in turn feeds the nk, which feeds the wmp but not by 3.3 v 5.5 v terminal, is that correct? I ask this because I want to be well on it's the only change you made ​​to make it work. a small pattern would be welcome to allow me to see what to do because I'm not accustomed to soldering and electronic cards.
Boulybooly is offline Find More Posts by Boulybooly
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 24, 2011, 12:35 PM
Sudden Freak
c2po's Avatar
Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
330 Posts
Boulybooly, unfortunately you cannot power those sensors from your BEC that outputs 6V, you will destroy them.
Arduino Pro Mini is fine if you connect 6V to it's RAW pin, it has internal 5V regulator, but WMP and NK require +3.3V power source, so you have to get a separate voltage regulator, they are cheap, here is the example of 3.3V regulator from Sparkfun.

Also looking at your pictures looks like connections are wrong. If you trying to connect ITG3205 as I described in my post then you cannot connect Nunchuk to it like you did, you have to connect them in parallel.
Only if you use unmodified WMP then you can connect Nunchuk to it in passthru mode. Here in berkely's blog on a second diagram you can see how you need to connect unmodified WMP and NK. Remember that you still have to power that blue WMP board from additional 3.3V power source.

My advice would be not to connect Nunchuk at this point at all, and make your copter work with just a Motion+. After that is working you can try to add a Nunchuk to it.
c2po is offline Find More Posts by c2po
Reply With Quote
Old Oct 28, 2011, 03:16 PM
Registered User
Switzerland
Joined Sep 2008
894 Posts
Hello,
Can I have a traduction for noobs of this:
you need to disable Arduino I2C internal pull ups (comment out #define INTERNAL_I2C_PULLUPS line), since WM+ board has it's own pull-up resistors connected to +3.3V; otherwise Arduino internal pull ups connected to +5V will mess I2C bus

Do you know an easy explanation for the pull-up resistors ?

Why we do not need logic level convertor for SDA and SDO ?
Cid156 is online now Find More Posts by Cid156
Reply With Quote
Old Oct 28, 2011, 09:42 PM
Sudden Freak
c2po's Avatar
Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
330 Posts
We do not need logic converter because Arduino processor (which is ATmega328P) being powered from +5V has input high level voltage (logical 1) from +3V to +5V, so high level from WM+ at +3.3V would be still in that range, so processor will recognize it perfectly.
And input low level voltage (logical 0) should be from -0.5V to +1.5V, and low level from WM+ is usually around 0V, so again it's still within range.

There are some sensors that can be powered with as low as +1.8V, then for such sensors for sure you would need to use logic level converter.

I hope that answers your question.

If you interested in more details here is a good article about logic level thresholds.
c2po is offline Find More Posts by c2po
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2011, 09:10 AM
Registered User
USA, CA, Fontana
Joined Mar 2005
1,086 Posts
guide

Thanks for the guide. Was looking for this.
The only thing that I have not done is lift the 3 pins of the other IC.
I have wired 4 line to the SOIC8 pads. Powered the little guy with 3.3V. But all I get was a little blimp of ready at the beginning of the cycle then it gone. Think removing those pins is going to help. Once that is working. I will try connecting my nunchuck.
actionplus is offline Find More Posts by actionplus
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 07, 2011, 10:16 PM
Sudden Freak
c2po's Avatar
Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
330 Posts
Sure, you're welcome!
I guess that other chip probably is blocking the I2C lines, so you can either lift the legs, or just cut the traces near those legs (2 and 3) that are shown with green and yellow color.
c2po is offline Find More Posts by c2po
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mini-HowTo How to make a hk450gt flybarless with a mcpx 3in1 scottyvisco Mini Helis 220 Oct 17, 2012 07:29 AM
Discussion How to make my Futaba 7C stops transmitting on 2.4Ghz ? SpookiePower FPV Talk 31 Jul 07, 2012 12:56 AM
Mini-HowTo How to make the most of your first SEFF KFC SEFF 2011 54 Apr 07, 2011 11:33 PM
Discussion How do I make a Trex 450 Pro fly like a sport flyer? Vertical Mini Helis 12 Mar 16, 2011 07:33 PM
Help! How to make a GPS locator? Jassu. Eagle Tree Systems 0 Mar 04, 2011 08:41 AM