Thanks for the tip about Callie Graphics. I have now contacted them; sent my .jpg decal files, and the price quoted was very reasonable. Can't wait!

Originally Posted by Bo43

Thanks for the tip about Callie Graphics. I have now contacted them; sent my .jpg decal files, and the price quoted was very reasonable. Can't wait!

She did my Catalina. It took about seven days from email to them arriving at my house in the UK, cant fault her.

Here are some pics.

Dave

Just fitted spray chines to hull forward section, glassing to follow. Motors mounted and flaps in progress.

Hey guys,
Just wanted to know if this is a EPO foam or EPS? I was just surfing through the thread quick and could did not see what the foam is. Sorry if I missed it thanks. This model looks sweet!

Matt

If I attach the landing gear to where it should be (see attachment), this is just about exactly where the centre of gravity of the plane should be; can't have the plane sitting back on its rear! Anyone overcome this problem? One would have to push the C of G far forward to overcome this, but then surely the CL415 will get a tendency to dive.
By the way, you may ask where is the livery? I've removed it, and am awaiting the French one from Callie Graphics (Securite Civile).

Originally Posted by Bo43

If I attach the landing gear to where it should be (see attachment), this is just about exactly where the centre of gravity of the plane should be; can't have the plane sitting back on its rear! Anyone overcome this problem? One would have to push the C of G far forward to overcome this, but then surely the CL415 will get a tendency to dive.
By the way, you may ask where is the livery? I've removed it, and am awaiting the French one from Callie Graphics (Securite Civile).

Just from you pic it looks as though the wheels are at about 50% of the wing, this should be fine as the CoG should be between 25%-40% on this straight wing. As long as its in front of the wheel it will sit fine, it doesnt need to be miles in front though as that can lead to a plane being hard to rotate on take off. That said these foam lightweights are usually over powered and will jump off the deck/water no problem.

Dave

Yeah,
That's true.

The CG of mine is dead on the (forward) plywood spar, which I think is in front of the wheel space. Are those retractable wheels you're putting on. Wouldn't mine seeing some close ups, though if I add anything else, it'll struggle into the air!

Luke

After all I've read in this thread about where the C of G should be, I am confused, so as a beginner, will use the 70mm in the "instructions". If it is too far forward, better a bit nose heavy.
N, the wheels are not retractable, and I've decided (10 minutes ago) to solely use the 'boat' facility, ie no landing gear, reducing any possibilities of leaks when using on water.
Still, the position I showed is where the wheels should be (landing gear hatch) which is dangerously close to the C of G, I think a design error.

Originally Posted by Bo43

After all I've read in this thread about where the C of G should be, I am confused, so as a beginner, will use the 70mm in the "instructions". If it is too far forward, better a bit nose heavy.
N, the wheels are not retractable, and I've decided (10 minutes ago) to solely use the 'boat' facility, ie no landing gear, reducing any possibilities of leaks when using on water.
Still, the position I showed is where the wheels should be (landing gear hatch) which is dangerously close to the C of G, I think a design error.

the CoG and the wheels are often very close together, have a look at some full size aircraft parked, they instal a 'pogo' stick under the tail to stop the plane falling onto its tail, here its a Saab 340,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sa...rChurchill.JPG
as I said if you put the wheels too far back it becomes a problem or even impossible rotating for take off. The extreme case is the B52 which has 2 sets of wheels at the nose and towards the tail way behind the CoG(to allow the bomb bay to be at the CoG) when they take off they dont rotate they rise into the airfrom all wheels at once, so no not a design error.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:B-...ss_Takeoff.jpg
Dave

Thanks all of you.
Another question on wiring (I aim to put the ESC in the fuselage!):
Is it bad practice to put both the motor wires and the servo wires in the SAME channel cut into the foam of the wing? What do you fellas do?

Originally Posted by Bo43

Thanks all of you.
Another question on wiring (I aim to put the ESC in the fuselage!):
Is it bad practice to put both the motor wires and the servo wires in the SAME channel cut into the foam of the wing? What do you fellas do?

the best position is in the engine pod just behind the firewall, this keeps the 3 ESC to motor wires as short as posible. All advice seems to say that long ESC to motor wires are to be avoided. Not sure about putting servo wires in with the 3 motor wires, the pulsing may cause interference, hopefuly someone will jump in with more experience.

Dave

dav3uk

I belive you have it incorrect, the wires between the ESC and
battery's must be kept short the wires from the esc to motors
can be longer with no problems. Per Castle creations .

I have several twins and a couple of 4 engine electric model
all have esc' in fuse with on problems .

But on the other hand I see My Dyham dc-/c47 is the oppsite
very long power wires and very short esc to motor wires.
so good question who's correct

the most Important thing with sea planes is to waterproof
the esc's ,because even a few drops of water on an esc
can fry them .

It's always a discussion matter, but after a lot of trawling, the consensus seems to have short battery to ESC wires, and ESC to motor length is not a problem. I have my ESCs in the fuselage and they are fine. Braid the cables from the ESC to the motors if you are running them with or near the servo cables.

If you do put the ESC in the nacelle (waterproofing???), the consensus is to use extra caps in the ESCs, same ratings.

Luke

Thanks both of you.

Originally Posted by pulsery2k1

dav3uk

I belive you have it incorrect, the wires between the ESC and
battery's must be kept short the wires from the esc to motors
can be longer with no problems. Per Castle creations .

I have several twins and a couple of 4 engine electric model
all have esc' in fuse with on problems .

But on the other hand I see My Dyham dc-/c47 is the oppsite
very long power wires and very short esc to motor wires.
so good question who's correct

the most Important thing with sea planes is to waterproof
the esc's ,because even a few drops of water on an esc
can fry them .

Hi all my multi engine models have the ESC in the engine bay, one being over 400mm from the lipo in the Fus' all work fine so as you say who knows what is 'right'. On the waterproofing side my Catalina suffered water in the ESC for the first few flights the symptom was just not arming at all, dried them out and worked fine, some have used 'Corrosion X' to good effect but I went down the mor traditional, old fashioned route and just put the ESC's into party balloons. I cut the end off a balloon rolled it onto the ESC (heat shrink was already removed to dry them out) a spot of silicone gunk around the wires and then a cable/zip tie to keep it all watertight. Its now done well over 100 flights with no problems at all, I will use this method again.

Dave