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Old Dec 31, 2015, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini View Post
Added a photo
you zip tie it? And your esc wiring is enough to reach the fan motor wires? any extension?
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Old Dec 31, 2015, 11:27 PM
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EDF Jet Jam 2016, June 16 -19
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No i mount it using the rubber mounts and yes i extend the leads between the esc and motor
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Old Dec 31, 2015, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini View Post
No i mount it using the rubber mounts and yes i extend the leads between the esc and motor
thanks Robert!
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Old Jan 24, 2016, 11:04 PM
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pete05
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Has anyone modified the steering for the nose wheel, I have the version 3 and find the retracting action very unreliable.
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Old Jan 24, 2016, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NR11 pete View Post
Has anyone modified the steering for the nose wheel, I have the version 3 and find the retracting action very unreliable.
You can make geometric adjustments to the horn/linkage if necessary. If the wheel isn't straight as it goes up, it will bind. For that reason (and independent steering trim) I have the steering on its own 8th channel that as soon as I flick the retract switch it disables the steering/rudder mix and centers it. Smooth sailing ever since. Good luck!
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Old Jan 25, 2016, 03:33 AM
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pete05
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I have moved the steering servo to the 7th channel and added a mix but it seems the link rod between the servo and the strut is to short to allow correct operation.
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Old Jan 25, 2016, 05:47 AM
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I have the Z bend on the servo arm going through the arm from top side. This helped to provide spacing between the steering arm and linkage.
The spring plate plays an important role when the gear cycles so check it too.
Here are the pics.
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Old Jan 25, 2016, 04:16 PM
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Thanks Robert I have mine set up the same, I see you have removed the retract door like me, I could never get it to close properly. When your nose wheel is down and straight is your servo horn at 90 deg to the servo? My link is not long enough to allow the servo horn to be at 90 deg.
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Old Jan 25, 2016, 08:43 PM
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No the arm is slightly forward
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Old Feb 27, 2016, 12:17 PM
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Hello pilots,

excuse me if this has been discussed already but I recently received a V3 Viper. I started the assembly on this jet today, to ran into a number of issues. First I would start with the retract sequencer, I plugged in a 1000 mh 3s battery just to do the test on the gear doors and retracts and it started to smoke I Immediately unplug the battery checked everything no wires was burnt so I re-connected the battery no smoke but now having problems with the front gear door not working also my main retract was working but after about three cycles one main retract stopped working not sure on what is going on with this but I think I have a defect model from the factory also I hate that you cannot change the servo for the front gear door.

Have anyone else experience these issues ?
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Old Feb 27, 2016, 01:34 PM
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Mr. flyboy,
I think by using a 3 cell battery, was it a lipo? with at least 11.1 volts you just fried the sequencer. Not the fault of the model.
Oops!
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Old Feb 27, 2016, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hapyjac2 View Post
Mr. flyboy,
I think by using a 3 cell battery, was it a lipo? with at least 11.1 volts you just fried the sequencer. Not the fault of the model.
Oops!
Thanks for your reply. What battery should I use on the sequencer? I hate that the instructions don't tell you how the set the wires up. I am not new to the hobby but new to EDF.
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Old Feb 28, 2016, 08:43 PM
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I would say a standard battery with a nominal 4.8 Volts. That is what my older Viper is. V2? Just about everything is rated for that.
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Old Feb 29, 2016, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.flyboy79 View Post
Thanks for your reply. What battery should I use on the sequencer? I hate that the instructions don't tell you how the set the wires up. I am not new to the hobby but new to EDF.
The Viper doesn't need a battery to operate. The supplied external BEC provides the voltage for the retracts and servos. That's why it's not covered in the instructions.

If you want to do away with the BEC and use a battery instead for powering the RX, servos and retracts then it's best to use something that provides a stable voltage of 5.0 to 5.5v.
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Old Mar 01, 2016, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by anlucas View Post
The Viper doesn't need a battery to operate. The supplied external BEC provides the voltage for the retracts and servos. That's why it's not covered in the instructions.

If you want to do away with the BEC and use a battery instead for powering the RX, servos and retracts then it's best to use something that provides a stable voltage of 5.0 to 5.5v.
Thanks for your reply. I think I will use the supplied BEC to keep things simple.
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