Originally Posted by coreman

Maiden, sort of...

Did anyone have too tight a top flap hinge gap to get good reflex? I had to actually bevel mine to get it to reflex on one side

Yes, I ended up untaping the hinges, moving the flaps back a bit and retaping the hinges. That way I did not have to cut a new bevel. The trailing edge still lines up...did not have to move it back much at all to get good reflex.

You're gonna love this plane when you get to fly her in more gentle conditions.

And yes, I recommend the stiffer spar above any available modification. You will get crisper roll and pitch response out of it, and a lighter plane to boot.

Originally Posted by Gerry__

Congrates, mate. I know what you mean when you say it wasn't relaxing with the wind.

BTW, you won't get weathervaning in flight, only on the ground. Maybe it was a bit of mild sheer?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weathervane_effect

Didn't do it that much but I did see it seem to wag the tail (yaw) in ways I wasn't causing. I know that at one point I got into the rotor effect near a treeline. Like I said, not ideal for the maiden. I may go back out at 5pm when the winds are supposed to drop under 10mph. I didn't realize the canopy magnet is a press fit, that's fixed. Doing the connectors on the ESC upgrade.

Originally Posted by coreman

Didn't do it that much but I did see it seem to wag the tail (yaw) in ways I wasn't causing.

Almost certainly the effects of mild turbulence. But it could also be a loose push rod.

Originally Posted by coreman

Didn't do it that much but I did see it seem to wag the tail (yaw) in ways I wasn't causing. I know that at one point I got into the rotor effect near a treeline. Like I said, not ideal for the maiden. I may go back out at 5pm when the winds are supposed to drop under 10mph. I didn't realize the canopy magnet is a press fit, that's fixed. Doing the connectors on the ESC upgrade.

Even with the aileron differential I get some adverse yaw at times. Maybe that's what you are seeing. I just ignore it and it self corrects. Unless you are a most skilled and professional pilot, by the time you correct with the rudder you are as likely to over-correct the other way.

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

Even with the aileron differential I get some adverse yaw at times. Maybe that's what you are seeing. I just ignore it and it self corrects. Unless you are a most skilled and professional pilot, by the time you correct with the rudder you are as likely to over-correct the other way.

I think part of my problem is that I am comparing it to my open class competition ships. I just need a good glider day to see what I can get out of it. Too little data in one flight in suboptimal conditions. I was a bit surprised about the sink rate so i will throw my Robart meter on it and probably do the boom strengthening mods and get everything straight and true. it's worth 50 cents if I can get useful weight in the tail!

Oh, and I was pleased with how flat it would turn. That shows promise

I can't find real specs on the PKZ4716 motor. What's the max amps it will accept? i see that they allow doe 4S packs so I would think it could handle more that the 18amps it seems to be drawing. What have people been able to load it up to? I've got a good selection of props coming and would love to know what I can get away with on my wattmeter

Originally Posted by coreman

I can't find real specs on the PKZ4716 motor. What's the max amps it will accept? i see that they allow doe 4S packs so I would think it could handle more that the 18amps it seems to be drawing. What have people been able to load it up to? I've got a good selection of props coming and would love to know what I can get away with on my wattmeter

Upping the power just spoils the glide.

Originally Posted by Gerry__

Upping the power just spoils the glide.

How so? Just putting on a bigger prop that still folds flat but draws more amps shouldn't effect the power off characteristics. Same battery/motor/weight

Originally Posted by coreman

I can't find real specs on the PKZ4716 motor. What's the max amps it will accept? i see that they allow doe 4S packs so I would think it could handle more that the 18amps it seems to be drawing. What have people been able to load it up to? I've got a good selection of props coming and would love to know what I can get away with on my wattmeter

Graupner Cam 11 X 8, on HK 50mm Al spinner, Turnigy 1300 mAh 20-30C 26A Max, <7000 RPM for 30 seconds

See http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1724 for more info

Drive Calc and a Log from Turnigy Super Brain are shown here https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=DBDE7...5DDCB92%211294

Drive Calc is very close to reality and so I suggest you can use that to play with prop and battery combos. Use the T28 Parkzone 960KV motor in Drive calc.

Alan

Originally Posted by coreman

How so? Just putting on a bigger prop that still folds flat but draws more amps shouldn't effect the power off characteristics. Same battery/motor/weight

You can do it within these limits but at the expense of efficiency. In other word, you'll be able to climb faster, but fewer times on the same pack.

The stock setup is a good compromise between performance and endurance.

Originally Posted by Radio.Active

Graupner Cam 11 X 8, on HK 50mm Al spinner, Turnigy 1300 mAh 20-30C <26A, <7000 RPM for 30 seconds 70°

See http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1724 for more info

Alan

Thanks Alan. Gives me an upper limit if nothing else. I've got a good selection of HK props coming from 10" through 13" diameters along with their AL hub/spinner. Just don't want to let the magical blue smoke escape in the process

Originally Posted by coreman

Thanks Alan. Gives me an upper limit if nothing else. I've got a good selection of HK props coming from 10" through 13" diameters along with their AL hub/spinner. Just don't want to let the magical blue smoke escape in the process

Edited my original reply with more info as you replied.

Originally Posted by Gerry__

You can do it within these limits but at the expense of efficiency. In other word, you'll be able to climb faster, but fewer times on the same pack.

The stock setup is a good compromise between performance and endurance.

yes, very true. You are trading off climbs per pack. I see endurance as how good I fly between climbs. Comes from years of flying HLGs with a stopwatch. Your time told you how many mistakes you made in neutral air.

heading out to the field in an hour since the winds have calmed some

Originally Posted by Gerry__

You can do it within these limits but at the expense of efficiency. In other word, you'll be able to climb faster, but fewer times on the same pack.

The stock setup is a good compromise between performance and endurance.

Coreman and Gerry___ That is the beauty of using Drive Calc as there is an efficiency calculation too. If anyone has the Paul Naton DVD "Electric Sailplane Clinic 2" there is a good demo of how he does this motor/prop/ESC/LiPo/Efficency/Prop Speed balancing act with Drive Calc. Ask around your club... someone probably has this DVD in your area.

On the other hand, the 1300 lipos are less then $12 each at HK, so that diminishes the efficiency importance now days, 3 flights or 5, is less important since you can have a few in your pocket and not worry about it and have a much faster climb to boot.