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Old Apr 16, 2006, 08:25 PM
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United States, MA, Webster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon
My E* is built, and I used Sarges simple rudder mod.

My "building tip" related question is I have bad binding with rudder input. Left rudder is strong, right rudder is very, very weak. So weak I am afraid to try. I fear it may turn only in 1 direction..

I had previously checked\confirmed for movement within specs per directions (10mm either way) but thought I might need more with the constant 10+ winds here and moved in one hole on control horn. Is there a special way to bend the wire or something so that it moves better? I glued the whole length of the control rods but that 1 or 2 before the control horn binds awkwardly.

I am uncertain if I should first build in additional rudder area before testing or allowing others to buddybox with me in lew of my unfortunate jetstream position.
Gid:

It is most important to have the "E-Z link" pushrod connector at the rudder horn mounted UNDER the horn, as opposed to above as the manual shows .. even the German dudes screw up now and then ... This will reduce the angle at which the pushrod rises above the horizontal stabilizer on the way to the rudder. It also makes it simple to cement the outer rudder pushrod sheath to the top of the Horizontal Stabilizer. This also means you will have to poke a hole in the Horizontal Stabilizer to tighten the grubscrew in the "EZ Link" .. that is no biggie .. no-one will see it !!

If you have any doubt as to the elevator or rudder control actions, DON'T attempt to fly the airplane .. post some pix .. ask more questions .. be sure before you fly !!

Be safe,

Russ
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 08:50 PM
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Thanks Russ,

that sounds like exactly what this needs.. I suspect that will totally alleviate this problem, I thought it the angle unacceptably poor. Can't believe I missed that from the threads and pictures..
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 09:04 PM
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United States, MA, Webster
Joined Feb 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon
Thanks Russ,

that sounds like exactly what this needs.. I suspect that will totally alleviate this problem, I thought it the angle unacceptably poor. Can't believe I missed that from the threads and pictures..
Not really .. a lot of these little idiosyncrasies were dealt with very early on in thread 1, 2 & 3 .. that was about 4 million posts ago, so don't feel bad. gotta wonder how many never find this stuff out, as they don't even know these forums exist ?!?!? .. SAD !!
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 09:39 PM
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One does wonder how the balsa\slimer models of yester-year (I'm safe saying this in Ezone.. ) were done with out internet forums. I guess clubs would be helpfull for building in a whole different way.

I would not have been able to do the little bit I have without rcgroups or similar.

I anxiously await low\no winds for my EZ maiden. That little prop just seems so punny. But then I think, well it works on as little as 6cells so it should be more than fine with 8! My pet peave with my past electric foamies I hope my E* will eliminate and change is the need for constant high throttle to stay aloft.

Overall, I think my build went well. Used some CA & kicker and UHU Creativ for part. Only glued a few fingers. Took me A LOT longer than 2 hours for this one ... though perhaps it shouldn't and needn't.
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 10:22 PM
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United States, MA, Webster
Joined Feb 2003
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Gid:

Are you a beginner, intermediate, expert ?

Some mistakes we all make:

Been pretty busy keeping the flight pack charged .. forgot to check the TX !

Checked all the control surface throws, forgot to check if they're reversed !!

Don't need to check the CG .. that's for beginners !!

HEY, for real .. did you push a "T" pin, or something of the sort, through the vinyl spinner on the Gunther prop ( assuming that's what you're using !? ) to let the air out when you pushed it onto the motor shaft ?? If not, the air trapped in the spinner will expand as the motor ( and shaft ) heats up, and blow the prop off !!! .... honest .. it really happens.

Otherwise, you should be O.K. And, yes, a nice calm day is worth waiting for. You may also want to try a "hand toss into the grass ... just to see how the glide slope / CG is .. we're not talkin' about running like a Gazelle here, more like standing in place and throwing the EZ* like a heavy dart !!

That's all I can think of at bed time .. others will more than likely have more suggestions.

Good luck on your maiden .. it will be a piece of cake !!

Russ
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 10:24 PM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon
My E* is built, and I used Sarges simple rudder mod.

My "building tip" related question is I have bad binding with rudder input. Left rudder is strong, right rudder is very, very weak. So weak I am afraid to try. I fear it may turn only in 1 direction..

I had previously checked\confirmed for movement within specs per directions (10mm either way) but thought I might need more with the constant 10+ winds here and moved in one hole on control horn. Is there a special way to bend the wire or something so that it moves better? I glued the whole length of the control rods but that 1 or 2 before the control horn binds awkwardly.

I am uncertain if I should first build in additional rudder area before testing or allowing others to buddybox with me in lew of my unfortunate jetstream position.
Check Post 78. Note the bend in the wire to eliminate down pressure on the horn.

BTW: Check back to post 229. I've added more AP pictures of Emerald Isle NC.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...16#post5249432
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Old Apr 20, 2006, 11:02 PM
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Good model. Bad rudder. Just like they say.

Nobody's joking about the inadequate rudder!

I didn't want to risk destroying it, and replaced mine with a half a V-tail from a Slo-V so I am looking at >4x the stock rudder area. I may yet trim that down some. (stripped a pico gear before I got clean rudder movement.. my advice to anyone still in the build process .. don't push it - if it doesn't move cleanly stop testing it untill you change it.. )

Succesfull maiden. Tough to get this bird up high, but it was plenty windy and I'm brand new at it

I moved my CoG a few mm forward, 75-76ish but it still really bobs in glide.

I forgot what a Elev\Rudder setup was like - Man, it loses altitude quick with turns. My last two planes were scratch built low-wing aileron and a biplane and I guess I just got used to them...

Once I get this thing setup properly it looks like a great trainer to use my buddybox on. I'm use to fat wing chords, but wow, what a glider!

Its a certifiable livestock chaser (at least if it were calm!)
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Old Apr 21, 2006, 06:35 AM
Crash Master
Gene Bond's Avatar
Indianapolis, IN
Joined Sep 2001
16,632 Posts
Has anyone worked out a solution to the trim change with full power vs. glide?

Is it cg?
Is it decalage?
Is it motor thrust?

Maybe it's a common problem for sailplanes?

My guess is decalage, which is not an easy fix...
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Old Apr 21, 2006, 07:47 AM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Bond
Has anyone worked out a solution to the trim change with full power vs. glide?

Is it cg?
Is it decalage?
Is it motor thrust?

Maybe it's a common problem for sailplanes?

My guess is decalage, which is not an easy fix...
If you install the motor and are careful to keep it in line with the foam motor mount angle it seems to work fine. I could program in some % down elevator on the throttle stick, but it's just as easy to give it 2 or 3 clicks or just tap the down elevator if the plane is zooming too much under power. My CG is set aft as far as I can and at a position where there is still control. Decalage is preset, however, I found this information that may be helpful.

http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/decalage.html

Remember that while the EZ can take crashes it's important that everything is returned to it's original alignment as part of the repair process; the motor, the tail feathers, wing incidence

BTW: The motor on my EZ and other sailplanes is just a way to get the planes to thermal heights and then it gets chopped.
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Old Apr 21, 2006, 01:11 PM
Crash Master
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Sep 2001
16,632 Posts
Thanks for the link! It helped me remember some of the basics we seem to forget from time to time I'll have to do some more testing....
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Old May 10, 2006, 08:36 AM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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EZ "Spar" replacement/upgrade

The EZ Star is a great traveler. Simply remove the wings and spar and throw everything in the back seat.

On a recent trip my EZ Star's spar fell into the car door jam and got crunched. It's too bad because the OEM black fiberglass spar that came with the EZ worked fine. Anyway, it was time to get a replacement and see if I could make an improvement without changing the basic look and design of the plane.

BTW: Ian Puller has a spar upgrade in this thread where he reamed with a drill.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...&page=14&pp=15

The EZ Star's spar is 8mm wide as measured on the outside diameter (OD). I needed to find a spar that was 8mm or slightly larger. A smaller diameter spar would not do because it would make the wings loose and allow unwanted movement. So arrow shafts and other readily available materials that were smaller than 8mm or larger than .05 mm were out of the running.

I looked around and here is what I found.

http://www.graphitestore.com/itemDet...d=34&curPage=1

BTW: They also had unidirectional CF tubes for a little less $$, but I went for the toughest and lightest spar the offered.

The EZ Spar is 19.5 " and the new spar is 29". My new spar will be cut to 26" and that will extend the length into each wing by a couple inches.

The next set of pictures details what I did, including the handling of cutting itchy, scratchy carbon fiber spars. The techniques used are nothing new and the reaming out the spar hole with a sharpened spar is a good idea I used from the forums.

The project is complete. The wings are much stiffer than they were. I'll post flight results soon.
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Old May 10, 2006, 09:57 AM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
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EZ Control Linkages

It's important that when making the EZ more robust that some thought is given to the control linkages. The EZ comes with park flyer mini connectors which work ok if installed properly and the set screw is secured with CA or locktite. However, many clubs won't let you fly (for good reasons) unless your plane has Z bends and/or clevices on "both" ends of the control rod.

I've posted some pictures of Z bend/clevice linkages. My EZ has Z bends on the horns, however, I have park flyer quick connects on the control horns. I need to install new control wires with clevices on the horn end and leave the z bends on the servo ends. My procrastination, lack of priorities, laziness, to not put clevices on the control horns may be my undoing.......

I hope this helps when dealing with control linkages.

Sarge
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Old May 10, 2006, 10:54 AM
I'm Ginger & called Adam
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Hereford, UK
Joined Oct 2002
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I Z-bend at both ends and set trims in computer radio. It's light + reliable. It's my tribute to Colin Chapman - "add lightness"

Adam
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Old May 11, 2006, 07:41 AM
"SARGE"
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Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Adam
I Z-bend at both ends and set trims in computer radio. It's light + reliable.

Adam
I agree, and have z bends on both ends of the control wire on my Panic 3D where the control wire is totally exposed. On some planes installing z bends on both ends of the wire is more difficult. I prefer control linkages that allows a "physical" adjustment of the zero/neutral trim setting and then use the sub trims/trims to get it exact.

If you have pictures of the steps used to install z bends on both ends of the EZ control linkages it would be great if you would post them.

Sarge
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Old May 11, 2006, 01:24 PM
I'm Ginger & called Adam
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Hereford, UK
Joined Oct 2002
2,903 Posts
Sarge,
apologies - this is going on in two threads at the same time,

post is here

Adam
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