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Old Jun 17, 2012, 01:31 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
4,008 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pecor View Post
OK guys I never had a key-chain camera, I would like to get one. What's the latest and greatest with a good video. And a link to your favorite seller If you don't mind. Thanks for your time, Jay
We do not make recommendations here because your requirements are sure to be different from ours.
What we do have is a comprehensive, uptodate section devoted to what this particular version of the keychaincam can and cannot do.
The First 5 posts contain loads of information which will help you to decide if this is the one for you.
There are similar threads, laid out in the same way, covering the #16, #18, and 1080P versions.
If, when you have read this infromation, you have specific questions, then we are always willing to answer them, to help you decide what you want/need from a keychaincam.
Mike
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Old Jun 17, 2012, 02:13 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luzertof View Post
Hey guys,

I've got a small problem and after weeks of trying to eliminate it I'm still facing the same problem.

I've got a Keycam 808 #11 some month ago, the USB Car charger was included.

At the moment I use the "recover time 70"-firmware I got here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3531

However, the S/S/C feature doesn't work.

That's how I use the camera:
I put it in my car and start recording. When the recording started, I put in the mini-USB-cable with the car charger, both came with the camera.
After exactly 70 minutes (the charger is still enabled) the record stops. I have to disengage the charger to make a new recording start.


In the past I tried also the 20min SSC and the 50min SSC firmware, both had the same problems.


I also tried to use another SD-Card, didn't work either.


What shall I do? Is the USB-cable corrupt? Or the camera itself? How to fix?

I use it as car cam so it's very uncomfortable to check every now and then if the camera works...

Thanks in advance for your help,

Luzertof
This camera will normally record for about 40 min. on internal battery power alone. If you got a 70 min. recording with the one firmware, then the camera was getting power from the USB cable, so there's no problem with the power supply.

Based on your comments, your #11 is the older style that has the standard 5 pin mini-USB plug in the camera, so the FW linked at the beginning of this thread should work in it. If by chance your #11 is the newer style with the smaller non-standard 8 pin USB plug, the FW posted here is not compatible. I can't think of anything else to try if you've swapped flash memory cards and still get the same problem.

I suggest you contact your eBay seller for help.
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Old Jun 17, 2012, 02:14 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,714 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pecor View Post
OK guys I never had a key-chain camera, I would like to get one. What's the latest and greatest with a good video. And a link to your favorite seller If you don't mind. Thanks for your time, Jay
In addition to what empeabee posted, each of the threads has links to the known good sellers in the first couple of posts.
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Old Jun 17, 2012, 06:26 PM
Registered User
United States, MI, Macomb
Joined Nov 2003
244 Posts
OK fellas, Thanks very much. Jay
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 01:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pecor View Post
OK guys I never had a key-chain camera, I would like to get one. What's the latest and greatest with a good video. And a link to your favorite seller If you don't mind. Thanks for your time, Jay
Well, this is a #11 thread, but since you are new to these cameras it can be confusing at first. Basically, there are only 3 cameras in the keychain 808 format with a decent HD, 720p, to chose from: #11, #16 and #18. You may find one or two other cameras claiming 720p, but the #11, #16 and #18 are the three most popular 808s available.

Except for the slightly better pricing, the #11 is an old model and is no longer properly supported in the form of firmware updates. The #18 is from the same developer and is based on the #11. Video quality is good, and it has video-out. Colors are slightly more saturated (unnatural) than the #16, but some people prefer these colors. The #18 can be configured by loading different firmware versions, but there are currently only 5 versions available. If the configuration you want is available, then you're OK.

The #16 is in a completely different league. Compared to the 5 configuration possibilities of the #18 (in the form of firmware versions), the #16 currently has well over 6000 configuration possibilities!! And this doesn't include the choice of AVI or MOV video output, which requires a different firmware. The camera can be configured by using a user-friendly, free, GUI program (Windows only) which also includes an integrated instruction manual.
Colors produced by the #16 are more natural. The current #16 does not yet have video out, but the new hardware version, which is expected to be available any day now, does. A new GUI setup program will be available at the same time. Firmware for the new hardware design is backward-compatible to previous versions, but the video-out will obviously not work on earlier models.
The #16 developer monitors the #16 thread and, if possible, will implement frequently asked for parameters. There is also excellent communication between Tom and the developer.

[Edit] Didn't realize your question had been answered already. Sorry, if my post duplicates previous information. May be useful all the same, so I decided not to delete. [/Edit]
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Last edited by Isoprop; Jun 18, 2012 at 01:45 AM.
Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:38 AM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Well, this is a #11 thread, but since ..
.....
..between Tom and the developer.[Edit] Didn't realize your question had been answered already. Sorry, if my post duplicates previous information. May be useful all the same, so I decided not to delete. [/Edit]
Isoprop. IMHO that was a super explanation, and personally would like it to be linked to all 4 threads in post #1 or #2 to help anyone who is thinking of keycaming.
Mike
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 07:29 PM
Registered User
United States, MI, Macomb
Joined Nov 2003
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Isoprop, Thanks! that clears things up a little bit better, And gives me a sense of direction on where to start looking. Jay
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 02:01 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
nickchud's Avatar
Market Harborough
Joined Apr 2006
3,739 Posts
dud battery?

First, let me say "brilliant thread, thank you for all the research and explanations!".

I've had my #11 for a year or so and now the recording starts to snow-over after a couple of minutes. Early posts on this thread show the same effect as the battery voltage starts to drop. But, when I put mine on charge, the red light only persists for about 15mins, then I get the same short life again.

So, for $38 including delivery, I've sent for a #16. Did I do right? is there anything that can be done to restore the life of the #11, apart from dismantling and soldering in a new battery? It was a very sudden deterioration. up until a couple of weeks ago I didn't get the problem. Did I do something to damage the battery?

Sorry if all this has already been covered, I haven't found it.

Cheers

Nick
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 02:21 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
55 Posts
Hey Guys,

Had a #11 for nearly a year now, has worked a treat until now

Getting 2 videos up to 8 mins then after that they only last a min or so, Im wondering if this caused by a failing battery ??

cheers

Zutta
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 06:16 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickchud View Post
First, let me say "brilliant thread, thank you for all the research and explanations!".

I've had my #11 for a year or so and now the recording starts to snow-over after a couple of minutes. Early posts on this thread show the same effect as the battery voltage starts to drop. But, when I put mine on charge, the red light only persists for about 15mins, then I get the same short life again.

So, for $38 including delivery, I've sent for a #16. Did I do right? is there anything that can be done to restore the life of the #11, apart from dismantling and soldering in a new battery? It was a very sudden deterioration. up until a couple of weeks ago I didn't get the problem. Did I do something to damage the battery?

Sorry if all this has already been covered, I haven't found it.

Cheers

Nick
Quote:
Originally Posted by zutta View Post
Hey Guys,

Had a #11 for nearly a year now, has worked a treat until now

Getting 2 videos up to 8 mins then after that they only last a min or so, Im wondering if this caused by a failing battery ??

cheers

Zutta
nickchud, IMO, you did the right thing. The #16 is a great little camera that will soon be even greater!

I have a few #11s and they all suffer from battery problems one way or the other. I imagine the original developer was too optimistic about the charging times and preferred to implement short charging times instead of trying to get a long battery life. But in those days, this was new terrain.

Battery life also depends on the number of charging cycles, but I don't think this is too relevant for the #11. IMO, I believe the main problem of the #11 is the over-optimistic designed charging circuitry

Battery life also depends on how you charge your battery, thru the standard USB cable or thru the "special" cable. I would think using the standard cable is better on the battery. The "special" cable charges the battery directly, relying solely on the protection circuitry built into the battery.

I don't know if the "new" #11 or the #18 uses different charging components, but the #16 certainly does. After over 6 months of use, my original #16 battery is still going strong. After the same time span, my #11 would have already failed.

The only way to restore your failing camera is to solder in a new battery. If you can't solder, you can get away with splicing the two cables together and using electrician's tape to insulate the bare wires. When replacing batteries, it is imperative to get the polarity correct. If you invert the black and red wires you will most probably destroy your camera.
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 11:50 AM
What could possibly go wrong?
nickchud's Avatar
Market Harborough
Joined Apr 2006
3,739 Posts
Many thanks Isoprop. T'riffic!

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Old Jun 20, 2012, 01:00 PM
Registered User
AJ750's Avatar
United States, MI, Almont
Joined Nov 2009
523 Posts
The only way to restore your failing camera is to solder in a new battery. If you can't solder, you can get away with splicing the two cables together and using electrician's tape to insulate the bare wires. When replacing batteries, it is imperative to get the polarity correct. If you invert the black and red wires you will most probably destroy your camera.[/QUOTE]

My battery in my #11 also wont hold a charge anymore. i was wondering if i made an external power supply, like the one on the first page, i could get away from opening the cam up and soldering in a new batt.?
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 07:21 PM
KAE
Registered User
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Jan 2010
219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ750 View Post
The only way to restore your failing camera is to solder in a new battery. If you can't solder, you can get away with splicing the two cables together and using electrician's tape to insulate the bare wires. When replacing batteries, it is imperative to get the polarity correct. If you invert the black and red wires you will most probably destroy your camera.

When I ordered my #16 camera I also picked up a new battery for my old #11.
I just finished performing a "heart transplant" on the camera and all went well. Patient is resting comfortably.
I spliced the wires by cutting them a little bit longer, twisting the bare wires together and then soldering them. I then used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joint. Charged the battery and recorded some video. Good as new. (need to reset the clock however).
Cost me $4 (US) for the battery - it was well worth the cost & effort.
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Last edited by KAE; Jun 20, 2012 at 08:10 PM.
Old Jun 21, 2012, 01:43 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,541 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KAE View Post
When I ordered my #16 camera I also picked up a new battery for my old #11.
I just finished performing a "heart transplant" on the camera and all went well. Patient is resting comfortably.
I spliced the wires by cutting them a little bit longer, twisting the bare wires together and then soldering them. I then used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joint. Charged the battery and recorded some video. Good as new. (need to reset the clock however).
Cost me $4 (US) for the battery - it was well worth the cost & effort.
To me, a "heart transplant" would be the processor . Anyway, good to hear that your #11 works again.
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Old Jun 21, 2012, 09:11 AM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
4,008 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
To me, a "heart transplant" would be the processor . Anyway, good to hear that your #11 works again.
Isnt the processor the brain ?
(Glad the hackapendectomy worked.)
Mike Splthair ..
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