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Old Apr 20, 2011, 02:04 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Blanc
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Hey that's not bad at all! Very nicely done if you ask me!
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 11:29 PM
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Buzzkill and Jmpdgs,
They certainly do look good. A lot better than my first tries for sure. I'm glad to see others were pulled into trying this. For me this has been a real learning experience about try and try again. Iím happy with my results, but the process and learning curve really took a lot of time for me. Itís a real reminder of the abilities in everyone with motivation to start and then try again and again. We may not all have warhead's abilities, but I'm happy to see everyone coming up with better pilots than what I see at the LHS.
I use super sculpey and my tools consist of sharpened toothpicks and bamboo skewers of different size, some scalpel blades, a round piece of smooth plastic with a rounded end for smoothing, and a very small pin attached to a handle for details. In making the figures, I think the hardest thing to do is know when to stop. I can go on and on fretting over some little detail for way too long. What Iíve found though is that once I stop, I can be confident that when I start a new one, it will be a step better. As an example, hereís my latest try. I just put it in the oven to cook and if it turns out and I get time Iíll detail how I make a mold in my next posting.
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 12:33 AM
A Global Force For Good
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USA, OH, Cincinnati
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
ff with the head to reposition it, pull up the collar to hide the scar. Brushed with alcohol and ready for the oven. You would think that from where I started to this wouldn't take long, but I messed with it for what seemed like hours

Well worth the effort Josh. That's great work. I'm psyched seeing all this talent. Hope some rubs off.

Cheers
Joe
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshlindsay View Post
Buzzkill and Jmpdgs,
They certainly do look good. A lot better than my first tries for sure. I'm glad to see others were pulled into trying this. For me this has been a real learning experience about try and try again. Iím happy with my results, but the process and learning curve really took a lot of time for me. Itís a real reminder of the abilities in everyone with motivation to start and then try again and again. We may not all have warhead's abilities, but I'm happy to see everyone coming up with better pilots than what I see at the LHS.
I use super sculpey and my tools consist of sharpened toothpicks and bamboo skewers of different size, some scalpel blades, a round piece of smooth plastic with a rounded end for smoothing, and a very small pin attached to a handle for details. In making the figures, I think the hardest thing to do is know when to stop. I can go on and on fretting over some little detail for way too long. What Iíve found though is that once I stop, I can be confident that when I start a new one, it will be a step better. As an example, hereís my latest try. I just put it in the oven to cook and if it turns out and I get time Iíll detail how I make a mold in my next posting.
Wow! Great stuff.
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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Josh,
Great work, vey cool. The one question I have is how do you guys make the mold half connection holds, the male and female alignment posts and holes?

Thanks,

Pete
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 05:30 PM
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I use clay to create the mold half and put some little holes in it. When I pour in the silicone for that half it creates the pegs. Then i remove the clay and pour the other half. May not be the easiest method but it works with the materials i use. Ill post some pictures of this method and it will be clearer.
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 11:11 PM
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How I make a mold

This is how I make a mold. This is probably not the easiest way, but it has worked well for me and is quite cost effective. I'm still on my first trial size tub of Smooth-on mold max stroke
http://www.smooth-on.com/a44/New-Mol...icle_info.html
It cost about 25$ and I've managed to try this method about 10 times.
Here are the materials I use in addition to the silicone:
Legos
Modelling clay
Plaster of Paris
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 01:04 AM
Always Ready!
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Chicago, IL
Joined Dec 2006
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Here's the pilot I sculpted, then cast and painted up by Hammerd:



Build thread here>
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 02:46 AM
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That has to be the best pilot I've seen.

You and hammered did a outstanding job!
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 02:06 PM
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What can you say but Wow! Beautiful work Warhead.
My mold turned out fine so I figured I would go ahead and show how I cast a figure. Its simpler than making the mold.
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 06:50 AM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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Wow! Warhead and Hammered just way too cool!

Josh,
Thank you so much for the detailed instuctions. A year or so ago I was going to give this a try and bought a trial size batch of Smooth On, Feather Lite Part A & B and their Universal Release. Have you tried the feather lite stuff? I need to get their silicone

After seeing your instructions (thank you again) I may give this a shot.

The only thing is now I'm into scratch building Micro planes and need to make pilots for those at 1:24 -1:30 scale details I would think are going to be hard to get but I'll give it a shot. I'll have to try and find some Legos (use to have tons but my boys are now young men in their 20's. Oldest just turned 22yesterday with the 2/2 Marines somewhere near or in Libya.

The Micro pilot I used in my Micro P-47 build was designed by Toni and made by Shapeways 3D cutting. I'd love to be able to make my own in this scale but again I'm just not sure of the level of details. I've also vac formed my own Sculpty molded pilots but in the smaller sizes the details are hard to get vac forming even though I may have a good mold.

Thanks Pete
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 03:35 PM
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Mtflyr
I've gotten so much from reading these groups over the years I thought it was time to post something that might be of use to someone else. I've enjoyed your building techniques for years now so its gratifying if you can get anything from my experience. One thought struck me as I did it too. It really makes these projects significantly longer if you are documenting it. Made me doubly appreciate the time put into helping others from experts like Tritle, Hammered, Rake, Maltone, and on and on.
My thoughts on your small scale stuff:
I'm guessing that every tenth of a gram is significant on a project so small. There's a Smooth-on distributor in Dallas that I stopped at once and I looked at that feather-lite resin. It might be much lighter than a regular resin, but my impression was that it was still much heavier than the two part foam they sell. If you are making very small parts, I don't think you would save anything by using the slosh method to make a hollow shell with it. I've never tried to make anything smaller than a 1/18th scale figure, but I was happy with the results I got with the foam and techniques above. Managed to make one that weighed just a gram.
Seems that at 1/24th to 1/32 scale, you are approaching sizes that are commonly modeled in plastic. I wonder if you could find a nice plastic kit on ebay with a pilot figure. Then you could just make a mold of that. I've heard tell of old Airfix kits (spitfire and me109?) that were 1/24th scale.
a quick search on ebay yeilded these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ulrich-Mini-Men-...item20b4f2f346

http://cgi.ebay.com/G-1-24-1-25-scal...item3cb6cf0dee

http://cgi.ebay.com/G-1-24-1-25-scal...item5adddaba21

May not be exactly what your looking for but it might be a place to start.
All the best,
Josh
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 06:29 PM
Zach
Illinois
Joined Feb 2004
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Josh, that's the same method I use with the Lego's and it works really well. I do have one more idea to add but I need to take a photo before posting that.

Warhead that is just beautiful. You've taught yourself something that most people couldn't learn in an art school.

Pete,
I'm experimenting now with some very small pilots. Maybe about 1/30 or so. I'm in the same boat as you. I need something that is light but also picks up the fine detail I want.
I have used Feather Light before and it does live up to it's name. Unfortunately the filler they use to make it so light also makes it prone to leaving bubbles in very small castings. It is not lighter than foam but does pick up more detail when it works right. The thing I don't like is the packaging. You have to dip it out of the cans to use. I actually store some in smaller screw top glass jars which make it easier to use.

Zach
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 06:40 PM
Zach
Illinois
Joined Feb 2004
806 Posts
I just realized I don't think I ever posted a finished picture of Impact Bob in this thread.

This was one of my first pilots and was more for fun than anything.

I hope to have my pilots on my website in about a week or less. I'm an engineering student and I'm waiting for finals to get over before I start to make the necessary changes to my site. It's never as easy as it should be.

If you have some spare time I'm hosting an Easter egg hunt on my website today and both prizes are still unspoken for.
www.tailspinaviation.com

Zach
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 09:31 PM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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Thanks Josh & Zach,

Again great stuff. I'll order some of the foam and give it a try. There are some pretty darn good plastic 1:32 scale and a few as you wrote 1:24 pilots out there for sure.

I only have one micro VVS Yak-1b at the 1:32 size. Most of my micros are a tad larger 1:29+-. Easy Built has some great very light 1:24 vac formed WWII pilots that I use but they lack details unless added or painted on.

Keep up the great work.

Thanks,

Pete
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