SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Thread Tools
Old Jun 01, 2015, 07:30 AM
FedericoA is offline
Find More Posts by FedericoA
Registered User
Italy, Sicily, Palermo
Joined Sep 2006
900 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbiner View Post
My AC10 is no more, I have crashed it before but this was a bad one, on hard ground. If anyone would like a complete pre-rotator kit or any other spares please PM me. All the head parts are in good order.
Sorry to hear that..What Happened ?
FedericoA is offline Find More Posts by FedericoA
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 01, 2015, 10:47 AM
sepcter is offline
Find More Posts by sepcter
Registered User
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Jun 2010
228 Posts
Graham I have been lucky to get a set of Aerobalsa blades 36 inches X 2 3/8 inches so they should be up to the task. Can you give me a little info on what you did at the root section for the blade attachment, the blades I have don't leave much room (in the head attachment ) to put very thick ply on top or bottom of the blades, however I will include the brass tube for the bolt hole reinforcement to add a little more strength, any information would be welcome thanks
Kevin
sepcter is offline Find More Posts by sepcter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 01, 2015, 11:49 AM
Graham L is offline
Find More Posts by Graham L
Registered User
Joined Jul 2014
90 Posts
Hi Kevin - Pleased that you have managed to get some blades from Aerobalsa.

The maximum thickness of my blades at the root as supplied is 6mm. I used a piece of 0.8mm fibreglass sheet top and bottom as the reinforcement for the blade mounting..

The bottom piece is 50mm by 30mm and is fixed 7mm back from the leading edge of the blade to get the mounting hole as close to the centre of the plate as possible

The top plate is 15mm by 50mm. Rounded off the inner ends of the plates by rubbing them on coarse sandpaper

I did not use any insert for the blade hole as the F/glass is tough and I have never had a problem with blades breaking or elongating the hole. However if using ply I would use an insert.

Stuck the plates on with 1 hour epoxy after roughing them up and when dry went round the sides of the top plate and filled any gaps around the camber with more epoxy.

When finished, I ended up with a total thickness of 8mm which was a very tight fit in the blade holders. I then took a medium flat file and filed down both top and bottom plates until they were a firm fit but could swing both ways. ( the blades are reasonably heavy with an outward CG and so find their own level easily)

You will need to round off the inner ends of the blades to prevent the blades damaging themselves if they swing back . I marked a line 12mm from the blade end at the front of the blade to the blade end edge of the top plate and 15mm at the back of the blade to the edge of the top plate , and used a hacksaw to cut off the triangular wedges which I then rounded with a file and sandpaper. (You will cut away a triangle off the bottom plate as well when you do this.)

My bolt hole is 22mm in from the end but 20mm would be fine .

Rest of my specs are my full post earlier.

I believe Aerobalsa blades have an undercambered trailing edge which gives more lift and improves spin up. I have never used them but people have said this makes the trailing edge very thin and suggest that you run some thin cyano along the first 5-10mm of the trailing edge top and bottom and double cover the trailing edge to strengthen them. My own preference is to give a thin trailing edge a coat of cellulose dope which may not be quite as strong but fills the pores in the wood and sands and finishes easily. The choice is yours.

It is also said that if not careful it is possible for shrink covering to warp the trailing edge and remove the under camber . Although more expensive, I find it easier to cover this size of blade in 2 pieces of Solartrim which is self adhesive and needs no heat. However any small wrinkles will come out with an iron set at 120-125 degrees.

Your blades may have slightly more lift than mine but would have thought that settings should be similar to mine

Sorry to ramble on but if you are not sure about any of the above feel free to come back.

Am looking forward to seeing your first flight with a well behaved AC10 !

Best

Graham
Graham L is offline Find More Posts by Graham L
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 01, 2015, 03:51 PM
sepcter is offline
Find More Posts by sepcter
Registered User
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Jun 2010
228 Posts
Thanks Graham I will try to get them ready for the weekend, my buddy got his parts from the factory in China today he has a new fuselage, tail plane and blades so he may be ready for the weekend too, sad to say our video man is moving out of town so I will have to see about further videos
sepcter is offline Find More Posts by sepcter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 24, 2015, 03:09 PM
Graham L is offline
Find More Posts by Graham L
Registered User
Joined Jul 2014
90 Posts
Hi Kevin ( Septcer).

Am interested to find out how you got on with the Aerobalsa blades - if you have had chance to try it yet ?

Best

Graham
Graham L is offline Find More Posts by Graham L
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2015, 12:15 PM
sepcter is offline
Find More Posts by sepcter
Registered User
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Jun 2010
228 Posts
Graham I am really discussed with this model I did all the work again making the new blades and all,
when I went to fly it would lift off to about 6 feet and then dive into the ground I survived several attempts trying to remedy this problem without success the last time it went in it broke the front gear again. A week later I had the gear repaired and by this time received a new set of factory blades. once again I made another attempt with the new factory blades, it now lifted off and flew on it's right side I don't know how but I managed to make a circuit which was out of control ( laying on its side was, really quite a sight for the spectators) and managed to make a crash landing only breaking the blades (again) Meanwhile my friend who just rebuilt his(with a new factory fus, blades, landing gear and tail plane) tried his again he made a couple of circuits and on his landing approach crashed, he said it just laid over to one side and he had no right aileron control it broke the blades, tail boom and tail plane, so who knows what happened, at this point I don't care I have put mine to one side for now I am just not going to spend anymore time or money on it so it will be a hangar queen from now on, a big paper weight, Hobby King must have made a fortune on this model and no parts for it, we got our parts from the factory in China and that place in Germany you told me about. Did you ever fly yours again? Hope you had success I am just flying my other gyros at the moment and enjoying a little flight time and no agro
Kevin
sepcter is offline Find More Posts by sepcter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2015, 01:09 PM
SafeLandings is offline
Find More Posts by SafeLandings
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
5,015 Posts
Kevin,

You will have to use flexible blades with tip weights, I didn't realise but the head is totally rigid so you are reliant on blade flexibilty which is hard to replicate with wooden blades consistantly. I thought it was teetering!

A thought, can you add Fibre Glass mounting plates to the alloy head and attach each blade to it? I bet that would cure it.


Rich
SafeLandings is offline Find More Posts by SafeLandings
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2015, 04:56 PM
sepcter is offline
Find More Posts by sepcter
Registered User
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Jun 2010
228 Posts
Rich you probably could but I have to give it a rest, I have spent so much time rebuilding this monster. I think if you get a good flight you are lucky but it will come back and bite you very soon, anyway thank you for the suggestion I never thought of that. Do you remember the advice you gave me on my little homebuilt Gyro? You told me to try the Mantis blades and reduce the rear tilt by 6 degrees, as the AJ blades didn't have enough lift. Well that's exactly what I did to the letter, used a 1800 battery instead of the 1600 that was the only change added to your instructions, and I flew it yesterday what a beauty really nice. It's amazing to me that you are 6,000 miles away and never seen the AG in the flesh and can still give the best advice thank you again. This model will just turn on the rudder I know it's kind of big but just by using the rudder only I get nice flat turns. This is really the first AG I built and designed myself I even built the head from aluminum tubing from Ace hardware I am a happy man this weekend regards
Kevin
sepcter is offline Find More Posts by sepcter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2015, 05:01 PM
sepcter is offline
Find More Posts by sepcter
Registered User
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Jun 2010
228 Posts
Graham I have a nice set of Aerobalsa blades if you want them, built as per instructions,
just kidding. I think they will be firewood next time we have a cold day, at least what's left of them regards
Kevin
sepcter is offline Find More Posts by sepcter
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2015, 05:19 PM
SafeLandings is offline
Find More Posts by SafeLandings
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
5,015 Posts
Kevin,
I am being blunt, it is a really crap design regarding the head (nicely machined though), you just cant build a shed load of blades and expect them to react the same using this technique. To me the model has been designed by someone who has very little experience with autos. With the head rigid and a motor that has been moved forwards like an after thought those who have got these into the air I take my hat off to.
I do feel sorry for those that have bought this model, most will know I am not a fan of the AC10 but I can see its appeal to others. A model that is purchased for this kind of money should fly out of the box and it clearly doesn't without significant modifications, those that have I am almost positive will have more flexible blades.

Congratulations on getting your OD into the air!
It's funny really, I have more fun with my simple OD models and I am sure you will do too.

Dont forget a vid!

Rich
SafeLandings is offline Find More Posts by SafeLandings
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29, 2015, 03:36 AM
Graham L is offline
Find More Posts by Graham L
Registered User
Joined Jul 2014
90 Posts
Kevin

So sorry it did not work out for you. I have flown mine once since the test vids and it still behaves well and flies like I would have hoped. Not a beginners model but a typical pusher and very controllable with a sensible speed range. Mine does need a lot of left rudder as I stated earlier but apart from that has no bad habits now.

My blades have a very small amount of flex in them( more than the factory carbon ones) and I am relying on the tip weights to soften the cyclic response which seems to work.

Totally agree that this should not have been put on the market with all of its problems, especially at its price point.

Regards

Graham
Graham L is offline Find More Posts by Graham L
Reply With Quote


Thread Tools