Hi Gang

I bought one of the HL Beaufightrers when it was on closeout for $99.00 earlier this year. There are other threads on this within this section if you're interested in seeing some that have been finished already.

This winter I plan on Kit-bashing mine into a MkII NF with the merlin engines.

This configuration fits my little H-100 Belt drive better. I plan on a pair of Mega 16/15/x motors (probably the 4 turn, but maybe 5). I'm thinking of 9 or 10 CP-1700s, keeping max current per motor to about 15 amps. motors will each have their own controller drawing off a single tank. 11" three blader is scale. Between the large diameter and the extra blade, it might slow the model down too much, but i'm willing to give it a try. My belt drives are flexible enough that if the pitch speed is too low, I can always reduce the ratio and go to a smaller prop.

I plan on making my own three bladers from APC "E" props.

If there is anyone out there that has a need for my original Vac parts for the radial engine version, PM me and I can send them out for just postage.

The nacelles will be mostly built-up from soft balsa blocks. The Retracts will be modified Robast 600 series mechanical. I will probably not install doors, just leave holes in the bottom.

Tom Hunt

Tom I would not mind having the spares for my Beau to serve as backups to less than perfect landings or as a set to bash with!

I like the looks of the Merlin setup Suhweeet!

PM me and I'll shoot you my info.

Originally posted by Twmaster
Tom I would not mind having the spares for my Beau to serve as backups to less than perfect landings or as a set to bash with!

I like the looks of the Merlin setup Suhweeet!

PM me and I'll shoot you my info.

They're yours...

Look in your PM box.

Tom

Hi Gang

Some of you may have noticed I have not updated my BF-109 Build thread lately. It became painfully obvious that I was never going to get it ready for the WRAM show in Late Feb wiithout rushing it. It deserves better than that.

Wanting to still bring something to the show, I decided to drag the beaufighter out and start the arf-bashing process.

I basically built the new Merlin nacelles as diagrammed above, but I subtituted me older Rhom air retracts for the mechanical robart 600 series.

Here is a picture of the model with the basic frame of the nacelles attached and the retracts installed.

Tom

oops... picture didn't make it.

The rest of the nacelle was very soft balsa block and sheet, added around the 1/8 ply sideframes and sanded to shape. the H-100 belt drive is removable thru a small block just behind the spinner and above the chin inlet.
In this picture, one nacelle is sanded to shape, the other is stil in block form.

The wood supplied in the kit for the horizontal stab and elevator was a little too soft and fragile. I decided to rplace it with a little harder grade. the extra weight would not be a problem as with the heavier drives up front than DD 480's i would not have any trouble offsetting an weight gain here.

I also noticed that the tail was quite a bit out-of scale. I printed out a scale tail and cut a new one out based on that drawing. it was a little less in span, but the elevator on the scale drawing was greater in chord than supplied.

I also decide to put a hole in the bottom of the fuselage for the tail wheel and mount the tail wheel to a bulkhead. The tail wheel will be free-swiveling, but limited in angle.

The rudder supplied was a good grade, so i did not replace it.

The model will have two mega 16/15/4 at 3/1 on my H-100 belt drive, swinging an 11 x 7 master airscrew 3 blader on 8-CP-2400's. Static current per motor is about 16 amps. I have not tached the props yet, but the static thrust is quiet impressive. I just hope the pitch speed is comfortable. If not I will drop to the 10 x 7 three bladers, but I'm a long way off from that as it will not fly until well after the WRAM show... unless the cold winter quickly turns into a mild early spring!

I still need to do some detailing to the nacelles, like the exhaust covers and a pair of side airscoops per nacelle. Of course i still have to install the radio and pushrods, but that won't take long. The lines for the motor power and retracts are already snaked thru the wing.

I have been finishing the wood surfaces in WBP and 1/2 ounce cloth. Other than having to wet both side of the tails, even though I only cloth one side at a time, to keep it from warping, it is comng out quite nice, and lot less smelly!

The model will be night fighter black overall.

Shaping up nicely Tom. I have been so busy getting my laser cutter online I have not had time to put my Beau on the build table. My club is having a warbird meet this June I am really hoping to have mine ready for at least static display by then. I too am going for the nightfighter black motif but will retain the radials

Someday I'll get going with that Aero 45!

Cheers,

Mike N
Laser Blade

What are you applying the glass cloth with? Are you referring to a water based urethane? Also, how much do those retracts weigh? I'm working on my HVP Beaufighter, adding the later model tail dihedral and doing the alternate rear bubble for the rear gun.

Originally posted by copterb
What are you applying the glass cloth with? Are you referring to a water based urethane? Also, how much do those retracts weigh? I'm working on my HVP Beaufighter, adding the later model tail dihedral and doing the alternate rear bubble for the rear gun.

Yes, water based Polyu. Don't remember the brand, as I transfered some to a plastic container to make it easier to use and gave the rest to a friend in the original can. I think it was fabulon. As I mententioned, on the 3/16 thk sheet tail surfaces, I had to wet both sides even though I was only glassing one side at a time. This avoided some bad warps (in both directions!). I don't think I would use it over an open sturcture surface with thin sheeting, it might create a lot of waviness in the skin.

The Rhom Air retracts probably don't weigh much more than 1.5 ounces each without any wire strut. The airline tubing probably weighs almost an ounce or two extra to get from the unit to the valve in the fuse. A couple of connectors, valve and mini-servo to drive the valve probably weigh another 1-1.5 ounce.

I'll weigh the model just before I start painting it.

Tom

Well,

I got the landing gear manufactured and installed tonight. I used the Kit struts, but had to cut them down 1/4"in length.

The cross bar is 3/8" brass. There are two 1/8 dia steel pins that go thru the brass and into the top of the kit struts. The wire that exits the Retract was a hefty 3/16 from my Spitfire, but the piece is only about 1" long. It make a 90 degree bend out of the retract aft to pick up the brass cross bar. Right now everything is set-screwed in place without flats. I will remove one at a time and put flats on everything and lock-tite besides.

here is a picture of the gear stowed.

gear down!

and finally one on her wheels.

No work tuesday night, I'll be at the SEFLI meeting showing her off.

Tom