Got the tip of the bow whittled down pretty close

Looking good so far!

I've also noticed that some balsa is harder than others, even when selecting sheets at the hobby store. I tend to select the soft ones due to the greater ease of working.

Not sure what the cause it. My suspicion is just subtle difference in the trees.

Originally Posted by Jeff2010

Hi oldbidgewater

What kind of balsa filler do you recommend ?

Looks like what you are using is just fine. What I have been using is shown in pics. Minwax (for large craters) Bondo ( for fine work) {not the two part Bondo} Aero Gloss (thinned 50% ,several aplications) to strengthen "soft balsa" Epoxy (thinned 50% w/alcohol ,as a final step on inside)
I know,that was more than you asked for.

OBW

That Minwax filler looks interesting, havent seen that at the local Ace ..

I will see if they can get some.

I have had good luck with Famowood ~

Originally Posted by Tim B.

That Minwax filler looks interesting, havent seen that at the local Ace ..

I will see if they can get some.

I have had good luck with Famowood ~

Tim,is it stainable? I can't seem to be able to read that .
Of course if painting it makes no dif.
OBW

Sig dope is a far better product to use on boats then Aero Gloss. It fills grain much better. Clear works well over stained wood like the mahogany. Balsa filler will turn milky when dry, don't use on stained wood.Filler is ok anywhere else. Put on several coats then sand, put on several more coats and sand lightly between coats.Dope will shrink as it dries and will show the grain hence the need for a filler first.Some use a tissue doped to the hull (preferably silkspan used for model aircraft) and put on wet. Aero Gloss is no good for this type of work.

Hi Charlie. Where do you get Sig Dope? Is Sig the brand name?

Hi oldbildgewater

What do you thin the Aero Gloss with if I decide to go that route?

Originally Posted by Jeff2010

Hi Charlie. Where do you get Sig Dope? Is Sig the brand name?

Sig is the brand name, they also make aircraft kits and have other hardware mostly for aircraft. Around here the R/C Buyers warehouse in Nashua NH carries it but I have no idea where you'd get it. It is thicker than Aero Gloss and has better pigmentation. I've used it for years and Testers dope before that.( Testers hasn't made it in years though) You can thin dope with acetone. use woodfiller for the seams and balsa filler to seal the grain of the wood.

Originally Posted by Jeff2010

Hi oldbildgewater

What do you thin the Aero Gloss with if I decide to go that route?

Aero Gloss 43-4 Thinner It soaks in well ,give it time to dry,it shrinks and now your (weak balsa ) is "locked" there for your fill/ finish .
Immagine a dry kitchen sponge.... You want a nice finish .....Fill the top surface ..Sand....Paint ....Lovely!!!!! Now,wet the sponge.
Moisture gets every where. So,several aplications of 50/50 will give your sponge(pithy balsa) the internal strength that it lacks.

OBW

PS There are perhaps more than a dozen products that will work .Make sure all products from start (glue/cement/CA) to finish (Color/clear coat) are compattable. After that you argue Ford/GM/Chrysler etc etc.

So the Aero Gloss goes on before the balsa filler? Do I use more Aero Gloss after the balsa filler as well?

On a side note. My motivation behind this build is that my Dad built this same model when I was two years old. Back in 1961. He would take me down to a dam in Willoughby Ohio and cruise the boat. The boat went over the dam on one occasion and my Dad claimed it was someone on a CB Radio who interfered with the RC signal. Luckily It wasn't too badly damaged. In the early Ninties my Mom sold it in a Garage Sale.

My Dad's boat. 1961

I hope I can do as good of a job as my Dad on my build

My Dad's boat at Daniels Park, Willoughby, Ohio. 1961