Originally Posted by starz

I got my 4F200 about three weeks ago, and have yet to fly it. The reason being I had a bad Rx, or so I thought. Just got my new RX2612V.

Now here’s my question:

Is the LED on the Rx supposed to be lit once it binds with the TX, or not? It seems that according to the manual, the LED is supposed to be lit solid once it binds. Neither one of mine are.

New WK-2801 PRO by chance? Looks like a bad batch of 2801 Pros went out some time back. These will (all?) experience RF failure within the first week or two of first power-up. I had one of my own 2801 Pros die an early death (works as a USB controller though).

The transmitter will power up and everything will look perfectly normal, but it will never sync to any receiver, even at zero range.

As for normal behavior, the Walkera receivers will flash rapidly when not synced and solid when synced. It will also flash briefly on initial sync and servo centering.

-Power TX
-power heli
-RX led bright
-RX led flash
-RX solid led bright==> bind
-motor beep twice

Hey there MrEnergizer, thanks a heap for the tip!

I am, in fact, using a 2801 Pro, but it works fine with all my other Walkera helis. So, just for the heck of it, I tried it in a different model slot. And sure enough, the light on the RX2612V stays lit! So I copied model 7 to slot 8 and reconfigured the setting for the 4F200, and everything seems to be working. Now I have to reinstall it in the heli and see what happens.

Of course now I have 2 extra receivers! Suppose I could install one in my EXI 250. Wonder if one would work in a HK450? Hmm.

Thanks again for the tip, I would have probably never thought of trying it in a different model slot if you hadn’t mentioned a problem with the 2801 Pro. Gee, hard to imagine any problems with Walkera stuff!

Thanks,
Mike

Found this on Walkera site, may be useful.

Originally Posted by starz

Don’t remember if I’ve asked this question directly before, , or not, so here I go.

I got my 4F200 about three weeks ago, and have yet to fly it. The reason being I had a bad Rx, or so I thought. Just got my new RX2612V.

Now here’s my question:

Is the LED on the Rx supposed to be lit once it binds with the TX, or not? It seems that according to the manual, the LED is supposed to be lit solid once it binds. Neither one of mine are.

Thanks,
Mike

It's solid once it binds on all the other Walkera rx's. I assume this one would be the same.

Well, I reinstalled everything on the 4F200 earlier, made sure, as best I could, that everything was working as it should. Then powered up the TX, plugged the battery in on the heli, waited for the “solid light”, and lifted off!!

It handles quite a bit better then I was expecting. Of course my piloting skills are somewhat limited, about all I can do with a CP is hover tail, and side in. But, with the 4F200, I started to get a little brave and started turning it nose in, then chickened out.

A big thanks to everyone that helped me out with both my 2801 Pro, and my little problem with my 4F200.

Mike

Hi Guys,

I'm still down for parts, but I figured that while I'm waiting, I should play with my new Xtreme pitch gauge. I think I understand the concept--with the swash level, clamp the gauge to the blade, make the tool level with the ground, read the angle along one side of the tool, right? The results I got seemed odd to me.

In normal mode, at:
0% throttle, I get -1 degree of pitch;
50% throttle, I get 6.5 degrees of pitch;
100% throttle, I get 12 degrees of pitch;
Curve: 36.5 46.0 56.5 66.5 76.5
(Seems normal enough--no pun intended)


In ST-1, with the 'throttle' stick at:
0% stick, I get -4 degrees;
50% stick, I get 5 degrees;
100% stick, I get 12 degrees;
Curve: 21.5 37.5 52.5 67.5 82.5

Seems like people were talking about wanting 0 degrees pitch at mid-stick in ST-1, giving one equal pitch change in either direction. Am I maybe measuring something wrong, or is my baseline pitch off somehow, or is this just a mild (non 3D) stock setting? Servos look level at midstick, making me thing that all 3 of my swash to blade controller links are the wrong length out of the box (that's the part that seems odd to me).

I also played with the HOV. P switch. With the HOV. P at it's middle (stock) position, in normal mode, at 50% throttle, I get 6.5 degress of pitch. With HOV. P all the way up, I get 8.5 degrees, and with the HOV. P all the way down, I get 4.5 degrees.

I also wanted to see if I could measure the effect on pitch of D/R and Expo, and I was very surprised to see that they were all at stock settings, 100% and LIN. After playing a bit, I learned that you have to hit 'ent' after making an adjustment. I was a bit excited before my first flight, and one of the very last things I did was try to set d/r and expo. I can only figure that I made my adjustments using L and R, then went the the next parameter with U and D, but never hit enter. Ha! At least I know what full stock settings feel like.

Rafa

If you go back a few pages in this thread DKfuji has noted that stock parts wont allow +/-12deg without causing heli to roll. There are also so some ST pitch curves the guys have posted. You seem to be maxing out at around 16deg which will only offer you +/-8. Perhaps limited by your extent, or heli design? Anyway Im not the right person to advise you, best look back into this thread and search out where DK noted problems beyond +/-9deg if I remember correctly.

Mick

Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100

Hi Guys,

I'm still down for parts, but I figured that while I'm waiting, I should play with my new Xtreme pitch gauge. I think I understand the concept--with the swash level, clamp the gauge to the blade, make the tool level with the ground, read the angle along one side of the tool, right? The results I got seemed odd to me.

In normal mode, at:
0% throttle, I get -1 degree of pitch;
50% throttle, I get 6.5 degrees of pitch;
100% throttle, I get 12 degrees of pitch;
Curve: 36.5 46.0 56.5 66.5 76.5
(Seems normal enough--no pun intended)


In ST-1, with the 'throttle' stick at:
0% stick, I get -4 degrees;
50% stick, I get 5 degrees;
100% stick, I get 12 degrees;
Curve: 21.5 37.5 52.5 67.5 82.5

Seems like people were talking about wanting 0 degrees pitch at mid-stick in ST-1, giving one equal pitch change in either direction. Am I maybe measuring something wrong, or is my baseline pitch off somehow, or is this just a mild (non 3D) stock setting? Servos look level at midstick, making me thing that all 3 of my swash to blade controller links are the wrong length out of the box (that's the part that seems odd to me).

I also played with the HOV. P switch. With the HOV. P at it's middle (stock) position, in normal mode, at 50% throttle, I get 6.5 degress of pitch. With HOV. P all the way up, I get 8.5 degrees, and with the HOV. P all the way down, I get 4.5 degrees.

I also wanted to see if I could measure the effect on pitch of D/R and Expo, and I was very surprised to see that they were all at stock settings, 100% and LIN. After playing a bit, I learned that you have to hit 'ent' after making an adjustment. I was a bit excited before my first flight, and one of the very last things I did was try to set d/r and expo. I can only figure that I made my adjustments using L and R, then went the the next parameter with U and D, but never hit enter. Ha! At least I know what full stock settings feel like.

Rafa

Rafa
Go here http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692. These are Finless Bob videos. The 2 you want are CCPM part 1 and 2. I suggest you watch all the videos. Walkera seems to have funky issues like this with their recievers and mechanical setups. I also have a Spektrum radio and a Trex 250. This is soo easy to set up compared to the Walkera.

Originally Posted by Bravo47

If you go back a few pages in this thread DKfuji has noted that stock parts wont allow +/-12deg without causing heli to roll. There are also so some ST pitch curves the guys have posted. You seem to be maxing out at around 16deg which will only offer you +/-8. Perhaps limited by your extent, or heli design? Anyway Im not the right person to advise you, best look back into this thread and search out where DK noted problems beyond +/-9deg if I remember correctly.

Mick

Originally Posted by Lompma

Rafa
Go here http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692. These are Finless Bob videos. The 2 you want are CCPM part 1 and 2. I suggest you watch all the videos. Walkera seems to have funky issues like this with their recievers and mechanical setups. I also have a Spektrum radio and a Trex 250. This is soo easy to set up compared to the Walkera.

Hi Guys, thanks for the responses. I will look back at other people's curves. What struck me so odd is that the normal pitch curve seems in line with what I have seen on the Finless Bob videos (Thanks Lompma, dkfuji referred me to these videos right before I got the 4F200), but the pitch curve in ST-1 seems odd. Even though the ST-1 pitch curve seems similar on both sides on 50%, I expected to get the -9 to 9 degrees that dkfuji mentioned, not the -4 to 12 degrees I'm currently measuring.

My first thought would be to get ST-1 to where it's 0 pitch at mid-stick by adjusting the linkages, but I realize that it will throw off the pitch curve I've got on 'normal' mode right now.

I also plan on comparing my setting to the sheet that Bravo47 posted the other day, but haven't done so yet.

Rafa

Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100

Hi Guys, thanks for the responses. I will look back at other people's curves. What struck me so odd is that the normal pitch curve seems in line with what I have seen on the Finless Bob videos (Thanks Lompma, dkfuji referred me to these videos right before I got the 4F200), but the pitch curve in ST-1 seems odd. Even though the ST-1 pitch curve seems similar on both sides on 50%, I expected to get the -9 to 9 degrees that dkfuji mentioned, not the -4 to 12 degrees I'm currently measuring.

My first thought would be to get ST-1 to where it's 0 pitch at mid-stick by adjusting the linkages, but I realize that it will throw off the pitch curve I've got on 'normal' mode right now.

I also plan on comparing my setting to the sheet that Bravo47 posted the other day, but haven't done so yet.

Rafa

Hey Rafa. In general, you should have 0* pitch at mid-stick in all modes (Nor, St1 and St2). Also, your pitch curve values look a bit off. You should have the middle value at 50% which should give you 0* pitch at mid-stick in all flight modes. Also, in the end, the heli is able to achieve +/-10* stock with some interaction at full pitch and cyclic. Honestly, though, one should probably not be in a position where those 2 commands are needed. Maybe during crash avoidance but usually not during normal or mild 3D flight.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Hey Rafa. In general, you should have 0* pitch at mid-stick in all modes (Nor, St1 and St2). Also, your pitch curve values look a bit off. You should have the middle value at 50% which should give you 0* pitch at mid-stick in all flight modes. Also, in the end, the heli is able to achieve +/-10* stock with some interaction at full pitch and cyclic. Honestly, though, one should probably not be in a position where those 2 commands are needed. Maybe during crash avoidance but usually not during normal or mild 3D flight.

Cool, thanks. That clears it up a bit. I went back and found your post, it's #199. Just to have it all on the same page, here are the stock curves I found in my 2801:

Nor 36.5 46.0 56.5 66.5 76.5
ST-1 21.5 37.5 52.5 67.5 82.5

dkfuji's curves are:
Nor 36 41 50 63 75
ST-1 25 37 50 63 75

Cool. I will play with these later on and report my findings. If my logic is correct, I would be adjusting the links if at midstick my pitch was something other than zero, right? Any updates to these curves, or is this the most current version? Thanks again,

Rafa

p.s. I just looked at the factory setup guide that Bravo47 posted the other day, it's curves are even weirder:

Norm: 36.5 51.0 65.0 74.5 84.0
ST-1: 21.5 37.5 52.2 67.5 82.5

some tips :

1/-when landing on grass, tail blades just sliglty hit a small rock and main gear is strip! they're just haft broken & heli still fly but you'll hear a hissing/clanking noise each time the bad teeh go through main motor pinion , so remember to check main gear after some hard landing....and slowly on throtle when starting heli.
2/-The easiest way for replacing main gear or belt drive is to unscrew like picture 2 and slide down the aluminium motor mount frame, all shaft will stay on place and no need to remove motor.
Hope this help,

Hey A. Sorry to hear about your little mishap. Personally, I change the maingear out by taking off the 3 links to the swash and tilt the swash to release from the anti-rotation bracket. Then unscrew the maingear bolt and loosen the collar under the main bearings. Then just pull up on the head to clear the gear and slide it out. I just don't like undoing thread locked screws (all of my screws are) risking twisting off the head of the screw and now having to replace any of the metal frames.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Hey Rafa. In general, you should have 0* pitch at mid-stick in all modes (Nor, St1 and St2). Also, your pitch curve values look a bit off. You should have the middle value at 50% which should give you 0* pitch at mid-stick in all flight modes. Also, in the end, the heli is able to achieve +/-10* stock with some interaction at full pitch and cyclic. Honestly, though, one should probably not be in a position where those 2 commands are needed. Maybe during crash avoidance but usually not during normal or mild 3D flight.

Hi Guys,

I updated my curves to be the same as dkfuji's, then remeasured my pitch angles. I can see where the pitch angles with these curves are different, but the endpoints are the same, kinda like I had figured. Instead of 6.5* at mid stick, I now get 5*.

Just to confirm, if I'm not mistaken, I now need to adjust midstick to 0* for all 3 blades by adjusting the linkage lengths, right? Sorry I don't have more confidence in my theory, I just want someone to tell me I'm right before I go mucking with it. Thanks again,

Rafa