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Old Dec 29, 2014, 06:36 AM
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ESC' running hot!

Happy Holidays Pilots! I have the HK Y-3 tricopter. I have attached a pic so you know what I mean. After about 3 minutes of flight, the esc' are hot, not warm, hot! I cut to openings in the front, and added a little fan. Still running hot. Most of the problem is that the fuse is enclosed. Has anyone had that problem? or have any suggestions? Thanks


Well I was going to insert a pic. But I don't seem to be able to.
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Last edited by Jerryzito; Dec 29, 2014 at 06:38 AM. Reason: added info
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 06:41 AM
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Here is the link.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rame_KIT_.html
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 06:56 AM
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Jack
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You have to add the ESCs, motors, props, battery, etc., to the tri at the link. And the info on what you have for power system components is what is needed to answer your question as to why the ESCs are getting hot.

There are a couple of things that can cause an ESC to overheat. One would be a prop that is an excessive load for the ESC, the other is if the ESC has a built in BEC and you are putting too much of a load on the BEC.

And the type of BEC in the ESCs is a factor too, a linear BEC will run warmer than a switching mode BEC and is also usually much more restrictive on the input voltage and maximum current ratings.

No details, no good answers...

Jack
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 08:43 AM
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You are right..It was a very vague question. This was recommended to me, being new to multirotors. I have (3) Turnigy 1500kv motors. (3) Turnigy 30amp ESC's. 8X4.5 props. I have two of the bec's disabled, and installed a HobbyWing 5a UBEC.
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 12:24 PM
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Jack
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The specific motor needs to be known too. A typical quality motor will be able to handle a continuous input power of about 2.5-3W per gram. So, as an example, if they are 25g motors you would want them down around 50-75W per motor and a total of 150-225W for all three.

Knowing the specific prop would be helpful too. You can look it up at a place like flybrushless.com and see what the prop needs for input power. Here is a link to a typical 8 x 4 prop there:

GWS HD 8x4 - www.flybrushless.com/prop/view/11

You can assume that your tri is hovering with an amount of thrust measured as static thrust in testing that is about 1.2 to 1.5 times the tri's ready to fly weight.

So if the tri is about 600g ready to fly it would need about 720g to 900g of thrust. And that would break down to 240g to 300g per motor.

If you look at that prop as an example, you can see that when it is generating 300g of static thrust it needs an input power around 37W. And if it is getting 37W from a 3S battery at 11.8V it is drawing about 3.13A (37W / 11.8V = 3.13A). That 3.13A load would be a very light load on a 30A ESC.

So if you redo the numbers for the weight of your motors and, if you can find it, for a prop that is like or more like the one you have, you can tell about how much load you are putting on those ESCs.

You don't have a watt meter do you? That could be connected between the battery and your battery input connector and you fasten it down and run it up and that would tell you what your are actually drawing. If you tie it down with just a little slack in the tie downs, you can tell where the hover would start.

Running it up to full throttle for moment, tied down like that and with a watt meter on it, would tell you what it would pull at full throttle if it can be flown that way. But don't be surprised to find that it will take you a while to get where you can use full throttle...

Post what motors those are and identify the props better if you can and that will probably tell you how much of a load you are putting on the motors now.

Jack
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 02:09 PM
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I notice a drop of over 50f when I heatsinked my esc's. I also added a fan to the esc and dropped another 15f

I used arctic white epoxy to attach the heatsinks to the esc. but first I cut away the shrink wrap from the existing plate heat sink built into the esc.

our esc's were running 160f with no additional heatsink which is too high for my taste. I know they are rated up to 218f before cutoff starts. I like my esc's to run around 100f-120f max.
having a enclosed frame is nice, but causes problems.

I think Jackeres has some great tips to follow.
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Old Dec 29, 2014, 03:17 PM
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I had similar experience with a Castle Creations Thunderbird ESC that I just happened to notice as being quite hot to the touch. You can read the details on that here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=18

In that case, and the ESC was working normally and withing specs and ratings, the temperature of the ESC in area where the BEC's IC was located was about 135F/35C with the BEC lightly loaded. With the BEC disabled (red wire disconnected and an external BEC in use) the temp in that same area dropped to 95F/57C.

The average person can keep a finger on a hot surface up to about 130F/54C and it concerned me that I was over that temp. I generally use that 130F/54C and finger contact limit as my personal limit for motors in use. And I was surprised to find that CC ESCs I owned and used were getting that hot in use. They do that routinely and can do it without being damaged. But it makes me nervous because it is just too hot for my taste.

I still use the CC ESC BECs on lightly loaded systems with only three or four small servos but if I want to go over 3S or put any bigger servos or other higher loads on the BEC, I don't do it with the BEC in use. I go to an external BEC.

The CC page on their BEC products is good reading for anyone that is finding their ESCs getting too warm and wanting to know how to eliminate that heat: http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html

The images show the effect of using a Thunderbird 18 with and without it's BEC in use. It was being used at near its rated limit there.

And it is characteristic that an ESC will run cooler at full throttle than it will at half throttle because of the manner in which the current is generated in the MOSFET chip that power the motor.

So even though you my be using those ESCs at much less than their rated capacity, because you are doing it with he BEC in use and at less than full throttle may have you using your ESCs in a very demanding manner.

Jack
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 05:57 AM
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Hey Jack...WOW you really know your stuff. You lost me after the first sentence. LOL. I do not have a watt meter but I think one of the guys in my club does. As I said, I am using 1500kv motors with 8X4.5 props. Here is my inexperienced opinion. I think with that the fact that the tricopter electronics are enclosed in the pod, and I don't do as much forward flying yet, there is just not enough air circulating inside. I have installed a fan. That seems to help a little. Using my trusty dremel tool, I increased the openings in the front. I am going to take it up tomorrow. We shall see.
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 08:10 AM
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Five or six years ago I knew none of this. But my interest in it all brought me forward. And that happens to nearly all of us. I just can't imagine an RC hobbyist that knows little or nothing and just rubs all of his needs with money. That person may be able to fly and enjoy it but there will be many areas where his aircraft that will have a lot of room for improvement.

You still have not told us what motor you have and knowing that would give us the weight and Kv rating of the motor. And those are key pieces of info for determining if you have your motors "over propped" (i.e., drawing too much current and generating excess heat because of that).

ESCs don't need to be exposed to a lot of air flow when they are sized right and used right. If they are exposed to a lot of air flow it may mean that you can use them at higher throttle settings for longer periods of time.

If you are going to be in the hobby for any time at all, and want to play with the variables of power and have more fun, a watt meter is an essential tool. You can make one for yourself even!

$3 Wattmeter - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949923

Find those cheap but serviceable DMM's on sale at Harbor Freight, buy a couple of them, and convert one to a watt meter and use the other for it's intended uses and you'll get older and smarter every time you use them.

$3 Wattmeter - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949923

Post a link to your motor!

Jack
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 02:27 PM
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Hey Jack. It's guys like you that make me look bad, Just Kidding!! Actually it's guys like you that contribute to this hobby. People who enter in to the hobby need more guys like you to learn from, and make the experience pleasurable. As for me, I believe I am somewhat like you. When I get involved with something, I absorb information like a sponge. I have been fishing since I could hold a pole, and now there's not much I don't know about it. OK getting off topic.

Below is a link to the motors i'm using. I am also using Turnigy 30amp ESC's. The president of my club happens to be an electrician. So he is kind of taking me under his wing about the electronics of the hobby. Also, I will be getting a watt meter.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...strSearch=2836
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerryzito View Post
Hey Jack. It's guys like you that make me look bad, Just Kidding!! Actually it's guys like you that contribute to this hobby. People who enter in to the hobby need more guys like you to learn from, and make the experience pleasurable. As for me, I believe I am somewhat like you. When I get involved with something, I absorb information like a sponge. I have been fishing since I could hold a pole, and now there's not much I don't know about it. OK getting off topic.

Below is a link to the motors i'm using. I am also using Turnigy 30amp ESC's. The president of my club happens to be an electrician. So he is kind of taking me under his wing about the electronics of the hobby. Also, I will be getting a watt meter.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...strSearch=2836
Well there is your problem. Your motors are to high of a kv. You should have went with 980kv or 1000kv motors. Your esc are working to hard to run those large props on the high kv motor.
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Madhampster View Post
Well there is your problem. Your motors are to high of a kv. You should have went with 980kv or 1000kv motors. Your esc are working to hard to run those large props on the high kv motor.
Unfortunately the set up I have was recommended on the forum. Is there a way I can salvage what I have without buying three new motors. I didn't think 8x4.5 was that big, but I guess they are.
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerryzito View Post
Unfortunately the set up I have was recommended on the forum. Is there a way I can salvage what I have without buying three new motors. I didn't think 8x4.5 was that big, but I guess they are.
Try using this site and see what prop size is best.

http://www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 09:21 PM
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Thanks I will do that.
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Old Dec 30, 2014, 11:54 PM
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Hi.

I have a Y3 and it is a great flying tricopter . As you know already that your motors are too small for the tri. I have HK http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html
spinning 1145 props and it is a charm to fly on 3s 2500 Mah batteries .
When I order anything from China I always order 1 extra motor and esc , Just In Case .

Gordon
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