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Old Feb 06, 2016, 04:58 PM
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eye bolt

I did not like the idea of an eye bolt just screwed in to wood. I took a piece of 4-40 linkage rod and bent in into a loop. It screws into a blind nut. I made sure that the eye loop fits into the tube mounted into the fuselage where my connecting spring will be.
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 05:01 PM
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Both wings are now to a place where I want to sand my leading edges. At this time I am only going to sheet the top and bottom at the front front so that I can blend the leading edge into the sheeting.
I have my guide lines marked onto the leading edge to help me keep a straight edge and also to not sand away too much sheeting.
I mentioned in an earlier post that the 1/8 sq basswood stringers are a mod I made to strengthen the sheeting. Sooner or later I always seem to poke my thumb through it. These stringers solved that problem.
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 05:08 PM
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I am very glad that I have waited to do the remainder of the sheeting as well as the cap strips, and the 1/8 sg. stringers on the outboard wing section.
There has been a ton of handling of the wings up to this point.
In the past I have always damaged those delicate parts from all the handling. So this was my work-around to accommodate my lumberjack ways and it has really helped me.
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Old Feb 08, 2016, 02:43 PM
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Awesome pictures of tail assembly by Jswain

JSWain,

Seriously, without your pictures in post#294, I doubt I could have figured out the stabilizer.
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Old Feb 10, 2016, 07:17 AM
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This is my finished wing.
As I had mentioned previously, I recessed my rear 3/8 wide spar deeper into the ribs so that they were flush to the top. This made it much easier to sheet and cap strip the top.
Personally, I like curves. So I used a french curve to modify my top sheeting for a curve rather than an angle.
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Old Feb 10, 2016, 07:32 AM
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Again, I am very thankful to all for the pics posted on the tail. The DreamCatcher directions are junk.
Anyway, I had a stab of the exact same spar/steel rod design pop off another one of Tom Williams designs, the Windrifter.
Seriously, most two meter sailplanes have thicker spar support in the stabilizer.
So I beefed this one up. I used 1/8 thick balsa instead of the 3/32 so that I could completely enclose the 1/8 dia. alum tube. I then sandwiched it with 1/32 ply, and added the top caps.
It weighs next to nothing and was amazingly strong when I tried to bend it. I am real happy with this mod.
I will do the same design mod to the short rear spar.
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 07:58 AM
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I decided to go with some mods on the stab. I see that many others have also.

(Frankly, I think this stab design is the worst I have ever encountered. And seeing as how I started building with Jetco and Berkley Models in the 1960's, that's saying something. I'm not saying that I am the expert, but I have enough kits under my belt to have a quality opinion.)

Note that if you notch the leading edge per plans, it is so weak after your done that it will crack or snap in an instant.
See the print side view.

I notched mine about half as deep, and I am still concerned about it. Later on I decided to add a piece of 1/8 balsa to the tip and that helped. You can see that in post #394.

Also, I tried several methods to add the slots and butchered them up pretty good. Finally I found that a piece of 100 grit glued with CA and wrapped around a stick worked awesome.
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 08:05 AM
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I decided to get the root rib set right at the start.
I wish the design had ribs like this all the way across. My guess is that this whole design was Tom being cheap because he did not want to pay for the steel rule dies and the die cutting.
I stacked both my root ribs and located my holes using the bellcrank. First I did the 1/8, than I placed a drill bit thru that hole and the bellcrank to locate the .094 hole
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 08:18 AM
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I located the spars to the root ribs using a piece of tubing as a spacer and the .094 rod.
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 08:19 AM
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I was very concerned about the transfer of force between the controlling spars and the leading and trailing edges. Except for at the root rib and tip block, all that torque is being transferred by 1/16 x 1/4 strips. And the wood in my kit is soft!
I have to guess that the design is primarily relying on the strength of the covering. I'm not very agreeable to that on a model of this size.
I modified my design to get some authority between the spars and the leading and trailing edge.
As pictured, it weighs 28 grams. After I add the cap strips it will probably weigh 1 oz.
And I am going to go buy a hard piece of 1/16 sheet and make my own cap strips.
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 08:25 AM
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if you were to beef things up between controlling spars and leading/trailing edges, what would you recommend? I am thinking monocoat is great but this thing is too big to rely on it for strength. I am a heavy builder anyway and willing to forgo addition weight for greater durability.

Thanks

JCW
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 09:25 AM
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YEars ago when I had mine, it was build per plan and instructions, no beefing,no extra precautions. It launched with a 4 m heavy duty hobby lobby latex rubber and never failed ... the one time it crashed bad, I released with intermittent battery connection and she looped out of the bungy into the ground. Broke some ribs, tail boom, but tail feathers except for some covering, nothing broken.
Durability ... if taken well care should last long enough ... just saying IMO ...
But overall, great build and great mods! Love this thread!
Enrico
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Winkle View Post
if you were to beef things up between controlling spars and leading/trailing edges, what would you recommend? I am thinking monocoat is great but this thing is too big to rely on it for strength. I am a heavy builder anyway and willing to forgo addition weight for greater durability.

Thanks

JCW
If I had to start all over again I would cut ribs for all the locations to go between the leading and trailing edges (I would have to cut them to allow for the spars, of course.)
I would still cap them with the 1/16 x 1/4.
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enrico74ec View Post
YEars ago when I had mine, it was build per plan and instructions, no beefing,no extra precautions. It launched with a 4 m heavy duty hobby lobby latex rubber and never failed ... the one time it crashed bad, I released with intermittent battery connection and she looped out of the bungy into the ground. Broke some ribs, tail boom, but tail feathers except for some covering, nothing broken.
Durability ... if taken well care should last long enough ... just saying IMO ...
But overall, great build and great mods! Love this thread!
Enrico
Maybe you were lucky. The DreamCatcher instructions state to not ground loop it because the tail is easy to bust off.
I agree that many people have had success as designed. I can only defend my mods based on building experience. I just dont like the stab design.
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Old Feb 12, 2016, 10:20 AM
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LOL, Ronj don't get too shakey about the elevator builds. Relax......The gussetts you have installed are more than enough to beef up the elevators. Enrico is correct, in all the years of flying Sailaires I've never seen an elevator fail due to structure or stress. Yes, they look a little delicate but don't over engineer them, they will be fine once you get them covered. Great job so far Dude. I can't wait to see your bird on the tow.
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