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Old Dec 18, 2010, 01:15 PM
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rew-7's Avatar
UK, Leeds.
Joined Mar 2009
398 Posts
Really!

This thing sound very nice-and worth the money. I'll research while I'm waiting for mine and see what I can learn-its hard because nobody has them yet. It won't be long if this takes off as a decent FBL system it will have its own thread.
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 04:16 PM
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Joined Nov 2007
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nearly pro new to 4f200

Hey folks!
I picked up a 4f200 from wowhobbies a couple months ago so I would have something to screw around with at the house this winter. My 500's are a little much for the yard outside and I figured this would be a good size for some experimentation. I thought it flew pretty well out of the box but I'm still making adjustments to this gyro system. After a couple mishaps with the 2801 I decided to switch the idle up and throttle hold switches to match my dx7 - kind of a PITA but no problems now. I also tried the 15 pack of blades from dealextreme and they seem to work pretty well. I'm considering putting a quark on this chopper and raising the expo for ail/elev. for control. The 3 axis seems to make decisions on it's own that I'm not super happy with but I'm still working through the adjustments. Any tips on set up for a guy that can fly well and doesn't need much help from the gyro for stabilization? I just want the tail to hold well but I can comb back through the threads for these tips as you guys have pretty much covered all this already. I want to stick to this thing because I have faith in the chopper and the 2801 pro (I'm actually impressed by the pro - has anyone tried to buddy box the pro to a dx7??). I'll keep you posted as I figure out the quirks!!
Thanks guys - Jon T.
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 09:47 AM
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United States, MA, Norwood
Joined Dec 2006
71 Posts
4F200 digital servo installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by ri0grand View Post
I moved the ball in on the servo arm in to give the servo more swing. I was able to get the gain up to 68% before it shakes. I am running it at 66% just slightly below when the shake starts. The min gyro sensitivity seems to be 51% This gives me 15% above that which should be safer. I could move the ball in one more hole but the push rod angle isn't optimal any more.
Hi ri0grand,

When mounting the digital servos , did the 4F200 frame have to be modified much? How about the servo control arms, did you use the ones that came with the servos and add the 4F200 link-balls to the arms?

many thanks
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 10:59 AM
Addicted Again
Wylie TX
Joined May 2009
371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by heloguy View Post
Hi ri0grand,

When mounting the digital servos , did the 4F200 frame have to be modified much? How about the servo control arms, did you use the ones that came with the servos and add the 4F200 link-balls to the arms?

many thanks
The Futaba s3154 for the cyclic fits with no mods. I used the arms that came with the servos and just moved the balls over. I did move the elevator towards the back a few millineters for give a little more clearance between the tip of the servo arm and the stock battery. I elongated the mounting hole and took a little material off the mounting tab on the servo. This allowed the servo to be moved towards the back a few millimeters. You may not have to move your elevator servo, but I wanted a little more clearance in case the battey shifted.
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 04:14 AM
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USA, IL, Elgin
Joined Jan 2006
666 Posts
Received Xmas present to myself today! A 4F200 BNF from xheli for $198 shipped using promo code modelxheli. I also got 3 of the Gens ace 1550mah 2S1P 7.4V 25C Lipos from them for $9.60 each with free shipping you can't beat it. I put XT60 connectors on all of them. It fits in the battery tray nicely and has a 5c charge rate.



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Pre-flight check was done by tightening every screw and ball link. Sprayed silicone on the belt and a dab of tri-flow on all the bearings and gears. I've got the yellow RC Timer ESC and Trex 250 plastic blades AC mentioned on order as the motor sure gets hot in this thing just hovering in the house.

Things I need to get/do:
  • Thicker gyro tape
  • Extra belt and main gear (what else?)
  • Ground the tail boom like AC did
  • Help for my Walkera heli and rcgroups addiction.




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Old Dec 21, 2010, 07:55 AM
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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Hey stretch1100, don't forget to check rudder servo travel too!
Happy flight on Xmas Holiday season!
AC
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 08:03 AM
Live to learn. . .
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Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch1100 View Post

  • Extra belt and main gear (what else?)

Congrats!

Maybe get some other main blades coming, just to keep from killing servos, etc.

Training gear for that first flight?

Maybe an extra tail shaft, tail case, screw set, bearing set.

Check cg and blade pitch?
Rafa
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 09:04 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
6,298 Posts
Thanks for your tips. I didn't realize that this gyro could cause such a problem on take off. I am used other Walkera 3 axis gyros without any problems. Learning how to take the FB200 off must be my top priority now.

I have only had 9 flights and already have gone through two sets of cyclic servos, a main gear and a set of blades. Whereas with my Trex 250, I have flown 36 flights without needing to repair or replace anything. Given that the flights on the Trex 250 were much more "hairy" than those of the 4F200. It seems the long term running costs are leaning heavily in favor of the Trex. It is a pity because the FB200 is much easier to fly than the Trex. However, I have toned the Trex down and it is flying much better now.
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 11:50 AM
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USA, IL, Elgin
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http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=13137301883

Wouldn't this motor work for both 2 and 3s ?
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 01:26 PM
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch1100 View Post
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=13137301883

Wouldn't this motor work for both 2 and 3s ?
Don't try to change motor until tail servo has been updated...
AC
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 05:27 PM
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USA, IL, Elgin
Joined Jan 2006
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Darn! Crashed in the snow when I wasn't paying attention. It's still flyable just a few ground down teeth on the main gear and some scuffs on the main blades. Xheli please add one more main gear to my shopping cart! :-)
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 01:15 PM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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I want your opinions on this. The main gear pin has shattered into 3 pieces again after just 3 flights! This was only detected when I carried out a routine check. There was no previous blade strikes of any kind.

This is the first time I have flown with Trex 250 blades and the heli was noticeably flying much worse. It became much more difficult to control and was quite unpredictable. In fact, it started flying like my Trex 250 before I tamed it. The conditions were quite windy but it had flown in stronger winds before. I could not see any vibration and the blades appeared to be tracking normally.

It dived steeply when coming out of turns and I had to yank the throttle up quickly. I think this may have contributed to the shattering of the pin. I wonder if there is a way of fixing the diving problem by altering the throttle and pitch curves.

My LMS said that the torque could be reduced by increasing the pitch. I wonder what are your experiences with the Trex 250 plastic blades? I only use the carbon fiber blades on my Trex 250 now because it flew noticeably better than the plastic blades. I wonder if the plastic blades are contributing to the problem?
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Last edited by zadaw; Dec 22, 2010 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 01:27 PM
"you'll play to live "
Alwayscrash's Avatar
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I want your opinions on this. The main gear pin has shattered into 3 pieces again after just 3 flights! This was only detected when I carried out a routine check. There was no previous blade strikes of any kind.

This is the first time I have flown with Trex 250 blades and the heli was noticeably flying much worse. It became much more difficult to control and was quite unpredictable. In fact, it started flying like my Trex 250 before I tamed it. The conditions were quite windy but it had flown in stronger winds before. I could not see any vibration and the blades appeared to be tracking normally.

It dived steeply when coming out of turns and I had to yank the throttle up quickly. I think this may have contributed to the shattering of the pin. I wonder if there is a way of fixing the diving problem by altering the throttle and pitch curves.

My LMS said that the torque could be reduced by increasing the pitch. I wonder what are your experiences with the Trex 250 plastic blades? I only use the carbon fiber blades on my Trex 250 now because it flew noticeably better than the plastic blades. I wonder if the plastic blades are contributing to the problem?
Using plastic blades is just for taming down heli due to heavier weight and cheap to replace.Mine has almost 50 flights and never have problem with main gear pin.Seems that stock Esc don't have soft start resulting of main gear pin break off!? have you try to use another esc for testing? I've change Esc with another one after 10 flights , don't like the way it start at all, especially for Heli.
AC
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 01:52 PM
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Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I want your opinions on this. The main gear pin has shattered into 3 pieces again after just 3 flights! This was only detected when I carried out a routine check. There was no previous blade strikes of any kind.

This is the first time I have flown with Trex 250 blades and the heli was noticeably flying much worse. It became much more difficult to control and was quite unpredictable. In fact, it started flying like my Trex 250 before I tamed it. The conditions were quite windy but it had flown in stronger winds before. I could not see any vibration and the blades appeared to be tracking normally.

It dived steeply when coming out of turns and I had to yank the throttle up quickly. I think this may have contributed to the shattering of the pin. I wonder if there is a way of fixing the diving problem by altering the throttle and pitch curves.

My LMS said that the torque could be reduced by increasing the pitch. I wonder what are your experiences with the Trex 250 plastic blades? I only use the carbon fiber blades on my Trex 250 now because it flew noticeably better than the plastic blades. I wonder if the plastic blades are contributing to the problem?
I have to wonder if the bolt is (was) not over tight. I've been using those plastic blades for 40 blades.

Rafa
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 02:51 PM
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Australia
Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
My LMS said that the torque could be reduced by increasing the pitch. I wonder what are your experiences with the Trex 250 plastic blades? I only use the carbon fiber blades on my Trex 250 now because it flew noticeably better than the plastic blades. I wonder if the plastic blades are contributing to the problem?
I would look at your pitch/throttle curves. I dont see how adding pitch is going to reduce torque on your gear pin but rather the reverse. I had trouble with my 5 Blade 450 breaking main gears. In order to stop this I needed a nice soft ramp up, and zero pitch until 50% throttle.

Personally I didnt like the white TREX plastic blades as my flight seamed a little slippery, even in a hover. I ended up putting the yellow TREX250 plastics back on. Heres a recent flight video of my 4F200 using the yellow plastics with a paint job.

I think I need a differant colour canopy for this heli as well as the dark colours tend to make the heli disapear in the treeline. Im considering a yellow V200 canopy or similar.

Walkera 4F200 outdoor flight (3 min 26 sec)
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