Originally Posted by bhoov128

Throttle off, flick the prop, get your fingers out of the way and throttle up. Might have some debris caught in it?

Edit sorry my bad I didn't see the no-attempts at moving action. Try rebinding, with throttle at 0 point, make sure you don't have any endpoint weirdness going on on your throttle channel on the tx.

I have already taken the motor out and it spun fine.
I have also previously rebound.

My bad for not mentioning this things. Even though I never flew it, I did check the motor preflight and it worked fine. So I really. Don't think there is anything with the radio, but I will check that any way just cuz. But this didn't happen until the tip over an when I picked it up nothing.

I will checked the radio (dx6i) for the monitor and watched the movement of the throttle and it worked fine and saw no other weirdness going that I could see.

Thanks for the help so far.

Originally Posted by ckleanth

I saw the ducted fan and... I'm jealous
can I have the part number please?




guys is that for a 2s or 3s lipo?

also can someone expand on this channel 5 business?
which stock beast bricks have ch5 and can someone put a picture where its located on the brick please. I thought all were 4 ch rx & integrated esc and aelerons servo output is from one single channel. id love to get individual servo for each aeleron (flaperons anyone?)

also where do you get your props and motors from. anyone with a HK link by any chance?

last has anyone got a HK equivalent mini servo plugs that would fit the beast (and the mini horizon hobby stuff) ?

All of the bricks are 6-channel. But you can't run flaperons with AS3X, as the second aileron channel won't get any AS3X commands. This will make the plane fly very poorly, and make it prone to tip-stalls & other undesirable behavior. To run dual-channel ailerons, you have to disable AS3X. FYI - faperons usually don't work very well for slow-flying or landings. Flaperons decrease the critical AoA, which typically increases safe approach & landing speeds. On many airframes, flaperons also increase the tendency for tip-stalls. Inverted high-alpha is one of two flight-conditions where flaperons are beneficial. The other is the flaperon/spoileron to elevator mix that's often used on fun-fly planes to tightes-up loops & such. In contrast, spoilerons can be quite useful on many airframes. They increase critical AoA, greatly decrease any tendency for tip-stalls, and decrease approach and landing speeds. A few degrees of reflex (spoileron) often reduces or eliminates wing-rock during upright high-alpha.

There are many sources for genuine GWS props. Stay away from the cheap Chinese copies. Glenn at RC-connectors is an excellent source for UM plugs, connectors, adapters, and pigtails. His pride in his work is evident by the excellent workmanship (unlike the cheap Chinese companies). Give him a call & let him know what you want to do & he'll set you up with high-quality parts.

Joel

Originally Posted by ckleanth

...
guys is that for a 2s or 3s lipo?

also can someone expand on this channel 5 business?
...

I only have time for 1.5 questions right now.

Surprisingly, the prop choice is the same for 2S and 3S. I run 2300kv's exclusively and they are real tigers on 3S with the 5043! That's my 1 answer.

The 5th channel can be found in the X-port in the middle of the brick. The X-port has 4 contacts. But you only need to find the signal wire to run an external ESC. I forget which connector that is and can't find it quickly. So that's my .5 answer.

Here is channel 5!
(Ignore the rest, it's my 3S mod with external esc)

I think the short answer would be why would you want flaperons with this plane anyway. Flying slow isn't really a problem for it.

Originally Posted by AustinG

I think the short answer would be why would you want flaperons with this plane anyway. Flying slow isn't really a problem for it.

Is he wanting this for flaperons? I agree about not needing them for sure. Most use the x-port for an external ESC.

EDIT: I see, yes, he mentioned flaperons. I wouldn't bother. And, if you have an AS3X Beast it won't work anyway as AS3X would only be operating one side with such a setup. People have tried. Been discussed to death.

cheers lads...
got the v1 so no as3x, the flaperons/spoilerons is mainly experiential to tighten loops / for fun really. as it was mentioned its not for landings.

good to know its actually a 6 ch brick... hmmm two ducted fans anyone?

I will have a look for the sugested prop. thanks

Well my Beast 3d from ebay was way more damaged than I thought, and I up one of the aileron servos trying to remove the bottom wing. It was basically 90% crusty dried CA on the right side of the fuse. Ah well. For the price I paid, I will get a new fuse, cabane, linear servo (unless I can patch the tiny wire I sliced), stickers, and tail feathers and be all in for probably $50 less than a new one

Originally Posted by bhoov128

Well my Beast 3d from ebay was way more damaged than I thought, and I up one of the aileron servos trying to remove the bottom wing. It was basically 90% crusty dried CA on the right side of the fuse. Ah well. For the price I paid, I will get a new fuse, cabane, linear servo (unless I can patch the tiny wire I sliced), stickers, and tail feathers and be all in for probably $50 less than a new one

Ok, I patched the servo. But, in doing the lap joint on the tiny wires I lost about 1/3" on the length of the wires. Looking at the pictures, I don't think I'll be able to stretch the servo to the proper length because the wires look pretty taut as it is. That's fine, I'm making a run to the LHS today to pick up the rest of the parts I will need. I plan on getting another AS3X brick, probably from classifieds here, because I'm planning on building a Guillows FW-190 kit #502. I don't want to wait anymore for an UM Axis fighter from ParkZone. I'll keep the shortened linear servo for ailerons on that machine. I'm excited to have a brand-new, except electronics, Beast 3D for a grand total of around $105.

So here's a question for you all: Since I'm disassembling the Beast 3d pretty much all the way down and replacing / building it from the ground up, should I spend the $25 to get the BL180 2300KV for the beast, and pair it with a GWS 5043? Or should I keep the current motor which is a BL180 2500KV. If I keep the current motor, I've already got a GWS 5030 to install. Opinions please

An aside: By the way: I have no 3D skills or experience, just basic aerobatics like inside/outside loops, hammerheads, stalls, spins, and the normal complement of immelman / split s turns. I have (once) gotten a scratchbuild plane to sort-of do a pop-top The Beast will be, for the moment, a biplane for me to sport fly. I love biplanes, they've a special place in my heart. I do plan on learning some 3d but not with a little beastie. I'll scratchbuild something or pick up a Fancy Foam airfoiled Edge 540 for the learning (and frequent crashing).

Thanks in advance,
Ben

I really need to buy some lipos for mine. The weather seems to be trending better, and I'm antsy to try this little bird out

Ben,

If it was my plane, I'd most likely go with the 2300Kv/5043. But then I'm an optimizer by nature, so I typically choose to maximize performance & efficiency with most things - within reason. Will it provide 25 bucks-worth of performance boost over the 2500Kv/5030? That depends entirely upon the value one places on performance gains. Only you can make that decision.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Ben,

If it was my plane, I'd most likely go with the 2300Kv/5043. But then I'm an optimizer by nature, so I typically choose to maximize performance & efficiency with most things - within reason. Will it provide 25 bucks-worth of performance boost over the 2500Kv/5030? That depends entirely upon the value one places on performance gains. Only you can make that decision.

Joel

And the noise... don't forget to mention how much quieter the 2300kv motor is!

Originally Posted by turboparker

Ben,

If it was my plane, I'd most likely go with the 2300Kv/5043. But then I'm an optimizer by nature, so I typically choose to maximize performance & efficiency with most things - within reason. Will it provide 25 bucks-worth of performance boost over the 2500Kv/5030? That depends entirely upon the value one places on performance gains. Only you can make that decision.

Joel

Thanks Joel, if it's going to maximize efficiency then I'll get slightly longer flight times which is good enough for me to spend $25 on.

Well I got all the parts I need

New fuse from beast 3d, tail feathers from v1 beast, beast 3d wings.... and i think decals from v1 beast. It'll be a mix and match of gold & silver

LHS didn't have Beast 3d tail surfaces, but I like to support them because they're ridiculously good people. I'm not going to worry about the color scheme. Also picked up that 2300kv BL180 and some 5043 props. Gonna be fun to not only fly, but build!

Halfway through the rebuild

I've got the new fuse top with the cabane mounted. Brick mounted, 2300kv motor in, ail servos run, Bottom wing mounted to bottom fuse. Tail feathers mounted. Control horns installed and all pushrods and guides installed. Wheel pants put back on. I also installed some servo covers from the carbon cub, should have gone with the ones from the Stryker though, the cc's aren't quite deep enough because of the different mounting methods on the servos.

Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish it, got top wing and carbon rods to install, then just mount the spinner and it should be ready