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Old Sep 24, 2014, 07:39 PM
Bryan, Texas
Joined Jun 2014
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Small Ball Link Plier for Micro Helis

Been trying to find a pair of ball link plier for Micro helis, I found a pair that said that they are a small ball link plier, but don't know if they are small enough for Micro Helis like the Hisky HFP 100 or WL V911.

So here the question will these plier work - Heli-Max Small Ball Link Plier HMXR4857

Does anyone have a pair of these plier or know of a pair that will work on Micro Helis.

Thanks for any help that you can give.
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Old Sep 26, 2014, 12:59 PM
I failed to crash a heli once!
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United States, CA, El Cajon
Joined Mar 2014
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Those looke a lot like the ones I purchased and they are way too big for the helicopters you mention. I feel a little put out that the manufacturers of these tools all think a micro heli is 200-450 range.

I had to make my own ball link tool, I documented the process that I used to make it on this thread on my blog.

I'm still looking for one I can just purchase but so far I've not had any luck.
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Old Sep 29, 2014, 12:50 PM
Bryan, Texas
Joined Jun 2014
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Thanks for the advise, I went ahead and order a pair of tweezer and will make my own pair like in your thread.
Thanks for sharing.
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Old Sep 29, 2014, 12:54 PM
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Djibouti
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I did pretty much the same thing except with a $1 pair of the smallest needle nose pliers I could find at harbor freight. I grinded a V into one side and bent the tip on the other. It took a bit of trial and error tweaking to get it right but with the extended plier grips it's pretty fast and easy to pop the ball links off without bending them.
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Old Sep 29, 2014, 10:35 PM
I failed to crash a heli once!
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Once you think about it I'm sure several things could be turned to the purpose. Keep your eyes open, if you find one for sale that will actually work, please post it in this thread. I'll pass the word far and wide. I love flying micro helis so this problem for me is not going to go away.
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Old Oct 01, 2014, 12:21 PM
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The tweezers mod looks like it will work. I guess no one made a set is balls can break easy. Then get bad feedback. I put tiny amount of oil on balls. Let finger nails grow a little longer than before. Make sure you have good grap on s/plate and pop them off. Trying to force them will end badly.
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Old Oct 01, 2014, 02:49 PM
I failed to crash a heli once!
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United States, CA, El Cajon
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Originally Posted by dankar04 View Post
The tweezers mod looks like it will work. I guess no one made a set is balls can break easy. Then get bad feedback. I put tiny amount of oil on balls. Let finger nails grow a little longer than before. Make sure you have good grap on s/plate and pop them off. Trying to force them will end badly.
The advantage of the ball link tool if designed and employed properly is that it relieves a lot of the strain off the small plastic connection between the swash and ball. Pulling them off by your fingernails provides no support for this small section of connecting plastic, the ball link tool provides counter force on the head of the ball to push it out of the link as well as force behind the link. Theoretically this should prevent stress and breakage.

When I first started designing I thought about using a simple wedge similar to the ball joint tools used in automotive applications. I decided against it for the reason stated above. I was already plenty strong enough to rip the link with the ball head off the swash plate, I know this for a fact because I did it twice. This is exactly what started me down this path in the first place.

I have to admit though if just pulling them apart with my fingernails worked for me, I wouldn't be on this crusade to find a ball link tool that works well. Honesty my tool isn't as good as I hoped and I've been considering trying to fashion another. For some reason it still takes way too much force to get some links removed from the ball. I've dimpled the end of a ball I've used so much force using my tool. It works really well on the upper links but the ones on the swash plate are always problematic.

As I said in theory it should work like a charm, sort of disappointed that it doesn't. In all fairness the links were way, way too tight. I couldn't even rotate them on the ball without fear of ripping the ball off the swash. Others have suspected that the assembly at the factory installed the links upside down or backward or something like that (HiSky HFP100).
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Old Oct 02, 2014, 06:18 PM
Bryan, Texas
Joined Jun 2014
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dteel,

Thanks for the thread, I got a pair of tweezer off Amazon yesterday and I were able to work on them some this morning . I got it where I can use them to pull off the link now on the HiSky HFP100. I will try this weekend to do a little fine tuning. Still want to take some off the backside to make the wedge thinner so it can slip behind the ball easier.

Thanks for the help.
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Old Oct 02, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by riverrat88 View Post
dteel,

Thanks for the thread, I got a pair of tweezer off Amazon yesterday and I were able to work on them some this morning . I got it where I can use them to pull off the link now on the HiSky HFP100. I will try this weekend to do a little fine tuning. Still want to take some off the backside to make the wedge thinner so it can slip behind the ball easier.

Thanks for the help.
You're welcome! Glad I could help another.
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Old Oct 03, 2014, 08:00 PM
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Marysville, Ca., US
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Originally Posted by dteel View Post
I feel a little put out that the manufacturers of these tools all think a micro heli is 200-450 range.
That's been an industry standard, where anything below a 450 was considered a micro, long before the current crop of sub-micro helis were available. Remember, there was a time when the smallest heli you could buy was a .30 size, which is equivalent to an electric 550! When they came out 450's were "minis" and then the 300's were called micros. Thinking about the Century Hummingbird, the E-Sky Honeybee, and the Blade CP series.
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Old Nov 08, 2014, 11:10 PM
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Home made ones











2 pairs at $5.50 shipped:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 06:36 PM
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A better ball link pliers

The plastic tweezers broke! So I have to go with metal pliers and found the perfect candidate for the job. It is called the wire looping pliers.



First I cut the slot on the curve side then filed off the curve into slimmer blade.





Then I bend the stepped side into 90 degree.





And it works great.



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Old Nov 12, 2014, 07:54 PM
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Brilliant. I'd been wondering about the strength of the plastic tweezers. Shame they weren't strong enough because they'd have been a lot easier to work with, but these wire looping pliers seem like a real solution. I'd never heard of them before but I see plenty on Ebay. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ranavalona View Post
Brilliant. I'd been wondering about the strength of the plastic tweezers. Shame they weren't strong enough because they'd have been a lot easier to work with, but these wire looping pliers seem like a real solution. I'd never heard of them before but I see plenty on Ebay. Thanks for the heads up.
Thanks for the kind words.

Got the pliers from ebay for under $10.00

I forgot to mention that when cut opening the slot, keep checking the size because you don't want it to be too large.
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tanasit View Post
Thanks for the kind words.

Got the pliers from ebay for under $10.00

I forgot to mention that when cut opening the slot, keep checking the size because you don't want it to be too large.
Cheers for the heads up. I'm guessing the Dremel cutting disk will be fine enough.
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