|Feb 12, 2010, 04:17 PM|
*** Meet the Reapers, Titans, Gladiators and Hercs for combat or FPV***
We love to fly!!! Watch the videos!!!
We manufacture a variety of EPP flying wing designs for sport flying, combat or FPV.
EPP foam is a crush proof foam so our wings are long lasting. EPP won't dent like the EPO or EPS models.
For first time flyers we have the 34" Pelican, 46" Albatross and 68" Storm Chaser
The 34" Assassin and 34" Widowmaker are EPP combat and performance planes that can be seen here. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1052384
The 55" Grim Reaper is the number one combat plane in our local club but it is also big enough and stable enough to be a good camera platform.
The 56" Titan has a unique long narrow wing that looks great in the sky. It can be flown with or without fins.
The 55"-61" Deep Reaper is a deeper wing giving more room for radio and FPV gear. It has a 6" extension in the middle making it easier to mount forward facing cameras. It is still stable on launch with a load and is very stable at a wide range of speeds.
The 60"-78" Hercules For those who want a really big wing. It is deeper and thicker for more gear than the Deep Reaper. It has an airfoil that can carry a load but still remain stable. It can be ordered with a pusher prop or with parts to build a twin motor puller version.
See the pictures below and watch the videos for all of these planes. You'll get the idea. http://www.crashtesthobby.com/videos.html
For the latest building instructions are the written instructions at http://www.crashtesthobby.com/
All kits come with 100% EPP cores, EPP elevons, stainless steel custom motor mounts, laminate, shock cord, 2 horns, ez connectors push rods and rod guides. and fiberglass spars. The laminate in the kit adds extra value to save you money on the build.
Radio control and FPV are a lot of fun but it remains the responsibility of the builder and the flyers to follow local laws and regulations regarding the use of any plane including those carrying FPV equipment. New electronics are making amazing things possible but just because you can does not mean you should. Planes should not be flown over populated areas or in a way that could put other people or property at risk. Some of the FPV planes are being flown in at altitudes above that allowed for model planes putting them in commercial airport traffic routes. There are restrictions in place already in some areas because of the behavior of a few. Please be courteous and wise with how and where you fly.
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|Feb 12, 2010, 04:23 PM|
It takes a lot to break one of our planes but it doesn't take a lot to fix one of our planes. Here are some tricks!!!!
If you wreck a combat plane ...... calm down, eat a sandwich, go to a movie. Do not start ripping off the tape a laminate! Secondary damage of a frantic repair can be worse than the primary damage. The EPP foam will return to it's original cut shape. Rarely is there wide spread damage. A surgeon doesn't rip off all of a patient's skin to fix a broken bone, he makes the smallest hole possible.
Bent motor mount .....The reason we use stainless steel instead of aluminum is so you can bend it back to it's original shape if it gets bent. Multiple bending will weaken the mount but we have never seen one break. We design the bottom of the wing to be at a right angle to the mounted motor so just take the mount off the plane and even remove your motor if you think you might damage it and take a hammer and tap the mount back to the original shape. You can then remount your motor and attach the motor mount to the plane and go flying. Some minor bending or changing of the angle of thrust of the motor can be done without removing the mount from the plane.
If there is a tear or several tears ..... gently pull the tear(s) open farther and use a glue gun at low temperature or gorilla glue or Goop to fill the tear and push it back together and let it set. Make only the smallest cut possible to get access and glue into the tear. Decide if the tear needs structural reinforcement so it doesn't happen again. Put 6" strips of reinforced tape across the tear and put laminate over the top. Use your iron and re-iron the wrinkled area. Many wrinkles can be removed. Try to blend it in with the original build.
Simple laminate tears can be patched at the field with clear 2" packing tape. There have been holes in a couple of my planes that have been there for years but they don't affect the flying or the strength of the plane. Since I use the planes for combat I hope I can do more trauma to the plane so I don't put permanent patches on very often.
If the shock cord gets cut ..... It rarely will break but it is possible to get a prop cut that cuts the cord too. Apply a 6" strip of reinforced tape top and bottom over the cut and laminate over the reinforced tape to keep it from breaking down in the sun. Try to blend it in with the surrounding tape and appearance. This usually isn't hard if you are using the same tape and laminate as the original build.
If a spar is broken ..... do not rip out the old spar or start pulling off the tape and laminate. Take a soldering iron and melt a 12" slot through the old laminate and tape along the old spar with 6" on each side of the break and insert a new 12" spar and glue it in place. Place a piece of clear tape or laminate over the repair and no one will notice you even had to fix it. Total repair time, 15 minutes and very little secondary damage from tearing into the plane.
|Feb 13, 2010, 01:28 AM|
|Feb 13, 2010, 08:07 PM|
Here's mine, but the original version is called the Terminator. We just love to combat with these.
|Feb 18, 2010, 04:26 PM|
What are the dimensions of the Reaper and can it be sloped instead of powered. Sounds like it might be good for video platform w/wo power. Root and tip chord, sweep, etc
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