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Old Apr 09, 2014, 12:54 PM
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Tucson, Az
Joined Feb 2007
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I had may faithful three Mcp-x's out flying. First was V2 fly fine/ Seconf one has FAI body kit V1 and again flew fine. Third is another V1 and kept flopping over.
Ran it up and servo was not moving. Couple days ago I put one asisde as parts bird and just Took servo from it and changed them out. Anyway #3 bird flew fine.
Bird I set aside for parts was used and never flew like the others. Put a new motor and no improvement. It had extended tail/ new motor/ couple more good servos etc. Its worth more for parts than I paid for it anyway. Plus flew it for a yera. not bad at all.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 04:15 AM
nr1
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Joined Feb 2012
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Here my Blade MCPX => V922 / FBL 100 conversion, works great.

Took all parts out of my mcpx and put it into V922 frame.

What's outstanding:
-Currently i'm still using the stock 6mm tail motor of mcpx. Therefore the tail doesn't hold very good. However will mount a 7mm V922 tail motor now and see if this makes the tail holding better.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 07:43 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Looks great!
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:19 AM
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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@nrf
Maybe the pitch of that prop is too much for your 6mm tail motor.

Looks good otherwise. Good job.

Personally, I like the mCPX frame over the FBL100. Because the FBL100 has that weak point in the rear.

I do like the head of the FBL100. Especially the links. Much more robust and you don't lose or break them like one generally do with the mCPX during crashes.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 02:35 PM
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Tucson, Az
Joined Feb 2007
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About 9 months ag bought a bl converted Mini c/p thats awesome, came with extra new servos/ frame/ s/plate etc. Plus guy had a Mco- x v1 cheap $25.00.
Flew this for entire time till now. It goes to LVC after couple minutes. It did this before and fixed power lead but problem keeps coming back ? It flys perfect till after 2 minutes/ shuts off and comes back on sometimes. I guess needs trip to Mega's. Since these are no longer available might as well fix it up again.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:20 PM
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Hey what are you guys doing about those canopy pins? It seems like I'm changing frames every other month or more. I know some of you guys are saying "maybe if you stop crashing so much it wouldn't be a problem", but it is, what it is, so I'm going to try to think of a way to keep from breaking these pins. I was thinking about cutting the pins in half and sliding a small spring over them, making them able to flex more in the event of a crash. The only problem is finding a spring small enough to fit over the pins tightly.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:22 PM
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Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
Joined Dec 2002
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Wrap the joint with kevlar thread and use some rubberized CA on it.
(You can also use this method to repair them, but it is easier to do it from the start)
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
Wrap the joint with kevlar thread and use some rubberized CA on it.
(You can also use this method to repair them, but it is easier to do it from the start)
Does that work for you? Because I'm thinking it will just break at a higher point, plus the right front pin is usually the first to break and the right-side servo prevents you from wrapping it at the joint.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:44 PM
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Tucson, Az
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I use a very small drill bit in pin vice. Ace has these and drill frame and the body pin. I insert small piece of music wire or cut off straight pin. Install half into frame other into body pin with little ca. It is not hard and srtonger than before.
My local ace has plastic bin with very small drill bits.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mugen 1 View Post
Does that work for you? Because I'm thinking it will just break at a higher point, plus the right front pin is usually the first to break and the right-side servo prevents you from wrapping it at the joint.
I have had repaired ones last a long time.
I also fly them with broken front pins, seems to work fine with three pins instead of four.

They could make the part way stronger by simply grinding a bit on the mould so there was no sharp corners between the pins and the frame.
The weight increase would be tiny, but they they would sell fewer frames. They always break right at the stress riser.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dankar04 View Post
I use a very small drill bit in pin vice. Ace has these and drill frame and the body pin. I insert small piece of music wire or cut off straight pin. Install half into frame other into body pin with little ca. It is not hard and srtonger than before.
My local ace has plastic bin with very small drill bits.
I tried that awhile ago with a heated safety pin and a small vise drill it work for a little while then broke. I never tried piano wire though, I'm thinking it'll flex more. What size wire is it?
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by pmackenzie View Post
I have had repaired ones last a long time.
I also fly them with broken front pins, seems to work fine with three pins instead of four.

They could make the part way stronger by simply grinding a bit on the mould so there was no sharp corners between the pins and the frame.
The weight increase would be tiny, but they they would sell fewer frames. They always break right at the stress riser.
I just changed the frame a few days ago, first day out I did not break any pins.
Second day out I broke two of the front pins.
The front pins are the first to go, so I stick some velcro in the bottom of my canopy and stick a strip of velcro across the bottom of my battery holder, I also stuff some foam in the canopy to divert some of the impact shock away from the canopy pins. this helps for little while.
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 09:17 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Aug 2012
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that sucks...put heat shrink tubing in your next frame.


PM me if you need a frame
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Old Apr 18, 2014, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Helldiver View Post
that sucks...put heat shrink tubing in your next frame.


PM me if you need a frame
Thanks, but getting a frame is not a problem, but the headache of changing it time after time is not fun. Hey I put a Turnigy fbl 100 motor in it and it seems to fly like the energizer bunny, now if I can only solve this COMPLEX pen breaking problem I'll have it made.
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Old Yesterday, 09:13 AM
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Tucson, Az
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The wire I use is .30 thous. so drill size is about same size. Ace has them in plastic container. Hot pin just weakens plastic. You need steady hand but drill cuts right into plastic. The weak point is body pin to main frame. The wire is much stronger and never had it break again there. You could use hot pin for starter hole and then use drill. Believe me its sure easier than change the frame. Takes a couple minutes to fix.
I know nay sayers just relate what I have used. It works and was told this by another member. That canopy protects the board, and pins add strenght to canopy. front pins break from inpact.
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