what electronics would i need for a scratch built plane. can you please post every part, even the wires i would need to connect everything together

thanks

How big and how heavy is the plane you're building ?

Justin: you are going at it backwards. Instead of asking the question you did, or any question at this point (your first post), you just need to spend some time reading the threads in both this forum, as well as the electric beginners and the power systems forums. you will learn a lot about both the building and the gear needed to build from others' postings. By then you will know that the only good answer to your question is "it depends"' Because there is no single answer to what is required to build a scratchbuilt. That's what balsa is starting to get at with his post. read the threads, figure out what plane arouses your interest, and ask questions in that thread for focused answers. I think your experience will be more rewarding that way. Otherwise we will all just tell you the gear we like in the planes we like and the variety and apparent conflicts in opinions will be baffling.

The easiest, and best, way to learn, is to find a plan for a plane that has everything detailed for you. Then build it to the plans. I put that in bold because a lot of times I see people asking for help on threads about why their plane was completely unsuccessful and after several q and a posts, it's revealed that the builder decided to take some liberties with the design and "do things their way" which, usually being a new builder with no design experience, got them in trouble and frustrated. If you find a good plane with a good plan, like the Blu-Baby, it will list exactly what parts you need to purchase for the entire package. Motors, escs, batteries, wires, everything.

Now, to generically answer your question, here's what is in my scratchbuilds:
1. brushless motor. Usually comes with a prop adapter and/ or prop saver with bands. Should have a motor mount.
2. Propeller. You'll have to research to make sure the prop you're swinging is appropriate for your motor. You can find some calculators to help you by looking up motocalc or webocalc. Also, you can find helpful information on this from products listings on websites such as headsuprc. Their motor listings also show propeller test results, which will help keep you out of trouble.
3. ESC. Sometimes the ESC has its three motor wires with bullet connectors already attached, and three opposite-gendered bullet plugs to attach to your motor.
4. If your ESC doesn't have bullet plugs, You'll need bullet plugs.
5. Receiver, compatible with your transmitter, with enough channels to run all the plane's systems.
6. Battery. Make sure your motor and ESC can handle the voltage of the battery pack. Don't try to run a motor designed for 2s (max 8v or so) on a 3s (max 12v or so) battery.
7. Battery connectors. XT60, Dean's, Banana plugs, whichever you pick, you'll need a male end for the battery and a female end for the ESC (traditionally).
8. Servos. The most common used is a 9g servo. Some planes with large control surfaces need bigger servos. Faster servos are more expensive but help with maneuverability, such as for 3D flight. Metal gear servos are more durable for things like landing gear retracts.
9. Depending on your wing configuration and your receiver, you may need a y-cable for ailerons. I say depending on your receiver because my Spektrum-compatible OrangeRx receivers by default use the ail and the aux channel for dual-servo aileron control, and I don't need a y-cable. You might. You might not even need them because you're using rudder-elevator-throttle only.
10. shrink tube. Shrink tube all your exposed metal bits after soldering - such as the bullet connectors for motor/esc and the battery wires where they join to the battery connectors. Keep them insulated to prevent any accidental shorts.

Hope that helps.
Ben

thanks, i am going to be following experimental airline's plans for a foam board plane

Justin
it's also a good idea to give us an indication of what RC flying experience you have as this will enable us to make some recommendations for you. If you are a raw novice then something like the BluBaby would be suitable, the Wot Next if you are ready for your first aileron trainer or the Funbat if you are looking for a super agile puller flying wing. All could be built around the same power train of a Blue Wonder 1300-1700kv motor,15 amp esc, 3 cell 800-1000 mAh lipo pack and 2-3 9 gram servos (HXT900's from Hobbyking are good)
Andy

Hi,
I am also staring to build my first plane! I have never owned or flew an airplane until now but i prefer to build my own so if it breaks i can fix it and i can make it bigger if i want! So i think it is a great idea!! I have learned everything in about a week by just reading the specks on the websites of the stores and also watching YouTube videos which i suggest you do to! It is really fun learning this stuff and i am excited to start making it!! I am going with a AX 2308N 1100kv brushless Micro Motor with 550 grams of thrust, a Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC, a Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx & Rx V2, and 3 9 gram servos!! I think it should turn out alright.

Originally Posted by headlessagain

Justin
it's also a good idea to give us an indication of what RC flying experience you have as this will enable us to make some recommendations for you. If you are a raw novice then something like the BluBaby would be suitable, the Wot Next if you are ready for your first aileron trainer or the Funbat if you are looking for a super agile puller flying wing. All could be built around the same power train of a Blue Wonder 1300-1700kv motor,15 amp esc, 3 cell 800-1000 mAh lipo pack and 2-3 9 gram servos (HXT900's from Hobbyking are good)
Andy

Quick question, Is it ok to use a more powerfull ESC than needed? Or will it break something? For example would a 10A motor work with a 18-20A ESC

Originally Posted by NWolter

Quick question, Is it ok to use a more powerfull ESC than needed? Or will it break something? For example would a 10A motor work with a 18-20A ESC

Yep, that's perfect. I always oversize esc. Also, a 10 A motor isn't a motor that will use 10A current, it will handle maximum 10a and I wouldn't necessarily trust those specs. The amperage draw will be determined by the prop you're using on the motor. If you overprop the motor you'll burn it up even if the esc is rated high enou to handle it.

Originally Posted by bhoov128

Yep, that's perfect. I always oversize esc. Also, a 10 A motor isn't a motor that will use 10A current, it will handle maximum 10a and I wouldn't necessarily trust those specs. The amperage draw will be determined by the prop you're using on the motor. If you overprop the motor you'll burn it up even if the esc is rated high enou to handle it.

Ok i think i know what you mean. Thanks!! On the site it said with a 8x3.8 it used 9.7A, is that correct? It is a AX 2308N 1100kv brushless Micro Motor form HK. If it is not correct how many amps will it draw? Would a 18-20A ESC be enough do you think?

Originally Posted by NWolter

Ok i think i know what you mean. Thanks!! On the site it said with a 8x3.8 it used 9.7A, is that correct? It is a AX 2308N 1100kv brushless Micro Motor form HK. If it is not correct how many amps will it draw? Would a 18-20A ESC be enough do you think?

I'm sure the specs are probably right. 18 or 20A esc will be fine.

Originally Posted by bhoov128

I'm sure the specs are probably right. 18 or 20A esc will be fine.

Thank you! I really appreciate the help! Ok one more stupid question. How do you know how many "c" you battery should be for your ESC.

Originally Posted by NWolter

Thank you! I really appreciate the help! Ok one more stupid question. How do you know how many "c" you battery should be for your ESC.

Multiply by the mAh of the battery to see the max current the battery should be able to provide without a significant voltage drop. A significant voltage drop will cause your esc to detect low voltage and cut power out to the motor. So if you have a 1000mAh battery rated at 25C it should be able to safely handle 25A draw. I don't pay any attention to the "burst" ratings and here your money will do the talking. I'm pretty sure every one of hobbyking's nanotech batteries are grossly overrated on their "C" rating.

By the way, no stupid questions. You'll be glad to know these things before you turn your scratchbuild plane into foam confetti and you've a better chance of success by asking and learning.

ok i see! So it is ok for your battery to have a higher "A" rating than your ESC or motor? I ask this because the lowest i can see is a 15c battery which means 15A if it is a 1000mAh battery. Ya i defiantly don't want to wreck any part of my plane right away haha especially the electronics!