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Old Oct 08, 2012, 11:56 PM
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sickwitit's Avatar
Lewisville, TX
Joined Sep 2010
358 Posts
Terri,

Is the new Y6 going to have more room on the top plate for FPV camera (Horyzon HD) and a vTx...compared to your quad? Also, what size lipos have you tested on the Y6 and which size do you think works best?
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 09:57 AM
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USA, CA, Santa Barbara
Joined Feb 2003
1,200 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenahelin View Post
thanks! i'll check that out. i finally figured out the arduino 2560 driver is not for this board cause multicopter 2560 is ftdi, the ftdi driver loads ok and starts a com port but the upload doesn't work, tried 3 xp machines and 1 win7. (wife wasn't too happy when i hijacked her computer last night )
actually it's complicated - the 2560 has two drivers - one for accessing and making setting adjustments via the multiwii software (COM port) and the other for doing firmware updates... i found it easier to do the firmware via an external programmer.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
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This video is dedicated to Fester.

Armattan 290 Acro Flight (5 min 56 sec)
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 12:20 PM
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
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Fester shouldn't be upset, the X290 is closer to the thread title than Terri's Y6 IMHO.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Wasp09 View Post
Fester shouldn't be upset, the X290 is closer to the thread title than Terri's Y6 IMHO.

Hey there, Sir! Long time no hear from you. I haven't bothered you with motors questions for a while.

Here's hoping all is well with you.

Best,
Chris
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 02:53 PM
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United States, CT
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macinr View Post
actually it's complicated - the 2560 has two drivers - one for accessing and making setting adjustments via the multiwii software (COM port) and the other for doing firmware updates... i found it easier to do the firmware via an external programmer.
thanks for the info.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
This video is dedicated to Fester.

http://youtu.be/6g9diq6OfAk
am i sensing love in the air....?

Aye, she's a very nice build... and a very nice sized quad to boot!
Your flying skillz are progressing Padawan san , luvn the delayed flips and tight turns.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:43 PM
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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X250 probem?

I have a problem with my X250 that I need some guidance with. I'm having a very hard time getting it to arm. I must repeatedly disconnect and connect the battery. Once I do get it to arm, the right rear motor only works very briefly (a few seconds). Then it starts to cog. When this occurs, I disconnect and re-arm again; repeat until several more times then give up. In total, the X250 leaves the floor for about 10 seconds and the battery is connected for maybe two minutes... for all attempts conbined. After the second attempt the right rear is pretty warm and will no longer do anything but cog. All attempts at offsetting this with trim changes are unsuccessful. After several minutes of fruitless attempts, the right rear motor is now hot, the others are room temperature.

It was flying previously to this incident. Is this a faulty ESC, motor or setup? The only time I ever encountered something like this was due to an ESC on a plane, but there are more variables with a quad.

BTW Chris, you are getting really good!
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:46 PM
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What was the "incident"? And what is "cog"?
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 04:26 PM
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Germantown, WI.
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Incident is probably the wrong word. It was flying before, normally and I recall nothing unusual happening the last time I flew it, no crashes, maybe a hard landing or two. I put it aside for about 6 weeks, never touched it. When I attempted to fly it after that, these symptoms started.

Cogging was also incorrect. On closer examination (I stuck my finger in the blade), the right rear rotor is just bouncing back and forth in the same position.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:26 PM
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USA, IL, Chicago
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where can I get props for the original 250 there was a link but can't find it.
thanks
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 06:48 PM
Heli and E-Plane
United States, FL, Ocala
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintr View Post
where can I get props for the original 250 there was a link but can't find it.
thanks
You can order them directly from Terri, send him a pm...
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:01 PM
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USA, OR, Hillsboro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintr View Post
where can I get props for the original 250 there was a link but can't find it.
thanks

http://www.himodel.com/sort.php?sub1=E2
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
Incident is probably the wrong word. It was flying before, normally and I recall nothing unusual happening the last time I flew it, no crashes, maybe a hard landing or two. I put it aside for about 6 weeks, never touched it. When I attempted to fly it after that, these symptoms started.

Cogging was also incorrect. On closer examination (I stuck my finger in the blade), the right rear rotor is just bouncing back and forth in the same position.
Hi Balr,

I hope you didn't go ahead and change a motor or ESC yet. I saw your post today but I was at work on my iPhone and couldn't reply.

What you appear to have here is a severed connection on the arm between the ESC and the motor.

You know how the ESCs connect to the arms and then the motors connect to the ESCs on the arms, too? Well, one of these circuit is broken.

There are three ways to fix this

1- scrape the arm so you can see the where the connection breaks out and add a dab of soldering on the break. This would not be the option I would go for by the way. Too redious and chances are you'll damage this further when scraping it.

2- replace the arm

3- Solder threes small wires directly from the ESC soldering points to the motors soldering points as to bypass the arms built in power grid. Then you'll have power going straight from your ESC to the motor and this should work. This is the option I would go for. Been there, dome that.

With a failing built in connection on the arm, there is not enough power reaching the motor so it can't spool up, yet, because it's getting some power but not spinning, it heats up

Hope this helps.

Best,
Chris
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 12:11 PM
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United States, AL, Guntersville
Joined Apr 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
Hi Balr,

I hope you didn't go ahead and change a motor or ESC yet. I saw your post today but I was at work on my iPhone and couldn't reply.

What you appear to have here is a severed connection on the arm between the ESC and the motor.

You know how the ESCs connect to the arms and then the motors connect to the ESCs on the arms, too? Well, one of these circuit is broken.

There are three ways to fix this

1- scrape the arm so you can see the where the connection breaks out and add a dab of soldering on the break. This would not be the option I would go for by the way. Too redious and chances are you'll damage this further when scraping it.

2- replace the arm

3- Solder threes small wires directly from the ESC soldering points to the motors soldering points as to bypass the arms built in power grid. Then you'll have power going straight from your ESC to the motor and this should work. This is the option I would go for. Been there, dome that.

With a failing built in connection on the arm, there is not enough power reaching the motor so it can't spool up, yet, because it's getting some power but not spinning, it heats up

Hope this helps.

Best,
Chris
Bet Chris is right on with this.In the very old telephone days we referred to this as a "high resistance open". Weak connection causing high current on that circuit.
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