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Old Nov 13, 2012, 08:32 AM
Registered User
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Oct 2010
304 Posts
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Tired of DLE 20cc

I'm sure many of you have had success with the DLE 20cc, but I'm officially tired of this DLE. This is a motor that has < 2 gallons on it. The motor just doesn't want to run at idle when warm. When warm it will not run unless using electric starter and full throttle. Sometimes seems ok. I have inline fuel filters. Idle seems to hunt. The person who help me tune it sets up the DLE 55 with no problem. Seems the carb is the problem.

My options are return to vendor to have it serviced where they will likely replace carb, with the same garbage.

Buy a "walbro" carb that's supposed to be japanese but is shipped from china and perhaps is no different from the dle knockoff. Does anybody know that the walbro carb on the DLE 20cc make it run better or is better quality.

I'm kind of tempted to look at the OS GT22 but there's very little info on this motor. Anybody can get 80 off the os gt22 @towerhobbies. I would gladly pay more for the reliability of the DLE 55 in a 20 size at this point.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 08:56 AM
WCB
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NC
Joined Aug 2005
1,039 Posts
Try replacing the stock plug with an NGK CM6.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:33 PM
<>< AKA W4BPS
USA, TN, Tullahoma
Joined Dec 2001
2,428 Posts
ignition box

The reason the idle seems to hunt. Just an idea................It is the set timing in the ignition box. It has a step. Once it sets at idle for a bit it will slow down even further like about two clicks on the throttle trim. Then That is as low as it will go, but once you throttle up it will idle fast again till you let it idle for 20 or 30 seconds. The only fix I can find on mine is to exchange the ignition box for a new stock Rcexel ignition box, or get used to it now that you know what is up.. Brian



Quote:
Originally Posted by mnavarro View Post
I'm sure many of you have had success with the DLE 20cc, but I'm officially tired of this DLE. This is a motor that has < 2 gallons on it. The motor just doesn't want to run at idle when warm. When warm it will not run unless using electric starter and full throttle. Sometimes seems ok. I have inline fuel filters. Idle seems to hunt. The person who help me tune it sets up the DLE 55 with no problem. Seems the carb is the problem.

My options are return to vendor to have it serviced where they will likely replace carb, with the same garbage.

Buy a "walbro" carb that's supposed to be japanese but is shipped from china and perhaps is no different from the dle knockoff. Does anybody know that the walbro carb on the DLE 20cc make it run better or is better quality.

I'm kind of tempted to look at the OS GT22 but there's very little info on this motor. Anybody can get 80 off the os gt22 @towerhobbies. I would gladly pay more for the reliability of the DLE 55 in a 20 size at this point.
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Last edited by BrianSmith; Nov 13, 2012 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:07 PM
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United States, LA, New Orleans
Joined Sep 2011
650 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnavarro View Post
I'm sure many of you have had success with the DLE 20cc, but I'm officially tired of this DLE. This is a motor that has < 2 gallons on it. The motor just doesn't want to run at idle when warm. When warm it will not run unless using electric starter and full throttle. Sometimes seems ok. I have inline fuel filters. Idle seems to hunt. The person who help me tune it sets up the DLE 55 with no problem. Seems the carb is the problem.

My options are return to vendor to have it serviced where they will likely replace carb, with the same garbage.

Buy a "walbro" carb that's supposed to be japanese but is shipped from china and perhaps is no different from the dle knockoff. Does anybody know that the walbro carb on the DLE 20cc make it run better or is better quality.

I'm kind of tempted to look at the OS GT22 but there's very little info on this motor. Anybody can get 80 off the os gt22 @towerhobbies. I would gladly pay more for the reliability of the DLE 55 in a 20 size at this point.
when you say it "will not run unless using an electric starter and full throttle" do you mean you cant get it to flip start or does it start ok (by hand) but wont stay running unless wot? i had a similar issue with mine so im trying to find out more of the story until i give an opinion.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:16 PM
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USA, TX, Grapevine
Joined Dec 2008
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I had acquired a engine a while back, and the carb on it was pretty bad. I went ahead and put on a better Walbro carb with a smaller bore to it and the engine started running like it should. I am flying the engine on a plane at present too. But in my case I bought the engine for a good price as a used engine. So I didn't have a new engine with problems for warranty servicing.

Of course with our gasolines we use, I had to rebuild the carb a couple of times as the gasoline seems to cause the diaphragms to get soft and stretch out over time. I went with a teflon pump diaphragm but they still only have the black rubber regulator diaphragms still. So now I have to replace the regulator diapgrahm from time to time. I suspect the rebuild kits are counterfeit ripoffs of the genuine ones, so the odds aren't good of getting really good parts in this case.

But normally if the carb has the model number stamped in the body, then it is likely a genuine Walbro carb as the Asian copies either have no markings or lightly inked on them model number markings.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 09:07 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Oct 2010
304 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeetarJoe View Post
when you say it "will not run unless using an electric starter and full throttle" do you mean you cant get it to flip start or does it start ok (by hand) but wont stay running unless wot? i had a similar issue with mine so im trying to find out more of the story until i give an opinion.
Yes I can't flip start it. When cold and just filling it up seems to flipstart. I was reading something that says that basicly the engine gaskets are causing the motor to loose compression and not drive the diaphram pump. When cold the motor is not expanded and the seals are more tight and is easier to flipstart. I can't get the motor started when warm unless I'm using the starter and go full wot.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 09:09 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCB View Post
Try replacing the stock plug with an NGK CM6.
This has been done.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 11:33 PM
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United States, LA, New Orleans
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnavarro View Post
Yes I can't flip start it. When cold and just filling it up seems to flipstart. I was reading something that says that basicly the engine gaskets are causing the motor to loose compression and not drive the diaphram pump. When cold the motor is not expanded and the seals are more tight and is easier to flipstart. I can't get the motor started when warm unless I'm using the starter and go full wot.
I had this problem with mine too. I ended up making a new set of gaskets and now she primes in just a few flips. I did have to make a gasket for the backplate though. Normally there isn't one there but the machining on mine was a little rough so it was sucking air through the seam in the backplate area.
Do yourself a favor and go to the auto parts store and get a roll of gasket paper, and an exacto knife. You can get a whole roll for about $3-$4 enough to make 10000000 gaskets.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:46 AM
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United States, MI, Waterford Charter Township
Joined Aug 2008
1,281 Posts
Personally, I would work towards sorting the DLE out. Short of that though, both the Mentor 22 and the beam mounted RCGF 20 have pretty good reputations, are reasonably priced (even if they are both heavier?)?
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 08:23 AM
heli wrecker extrordinaire
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United States, WA, Lynden
Joined Nov 2004
184 Posts
been thru the hard or no start warm on a couple of friends engines. one was the crank sensor the other was the reed block. First start of the day they both started right up. not saying either of these scenario's are your problem, but it gives you a place to look.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:27 AM
Illegitimi non carborundum
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Joined Mar 2011
1,183 Posts
My DLE-20 started to run really rough this past summer and I couldn't accelerate it past an idle. After checking everything obvious I took the carb off, and found these wedged in the reeds:





It was a couple of pieces of epoxy that had held my ballast weights on. These two must have vibrated loose. After a little cleanup the engine ran fine.

I'm not suggesting that this is your problem - but it was a lesson to me that the source of your problem may be where no-one expects.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined Sep 2007
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Sure there not your crusty ol toe nails ? MMMMMMMMMMMMM toe nails . Cheers the pope
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 03:40 PM
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white lake michigan
Joined Oct 2004
3,756 Posts
Im a bit confused, how in the world did it ingest those? they look also large to make it through the carb bore past the choke and throttle butterfly. Then again it's hard to tell how big they really are.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 08:21 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
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Sounds like an air leak to me
When it is hot spray some flammable type brake clean with the supplied straw around the base gaskets and any crankcase gaskets
And the carb base if she smoothe out there is your leak
But what do I know
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Old Nov 24, 2012, 09:30 AM
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winston mo
Joined Oct 2006
7,518 Posts
O I'd love to have a CHEAP DLE 20 to work over
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