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Old May 11, 2011, 02:34 PM
MPP
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Danbury CT (DXR)
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Guillows P-51D Kit #905 "May B, or C"

With a crazy May here in the North East I have been poking at several projects with no real momentum on any. I have been using Tight bond on an Avenger I am building and is nice to work with but not having the instant gratification of CA leaves idol hands. So I start picking through the stash and pull out the contents of the Guillows P-51D kit 905. Hmmm this looks pretty simple and the WS is 17 1/2". Being a Mustang fan I start to get excited about this but it needs something more than a strait up build. Thats when it hits me. One of my screen saver pictures popped up the red Excalliber III P-51-C at Udvar Hazy museum that i took several years ago. That's it! bash this into a B or C version and if I decide to go with Excalliber III I will install the Beast guts and make it fast. With a fast airframe it will also need a set of micro retracts that I picked up from a fellow RCG'er Yellow Barron. I originally bought them for the Avenger, but after looking at the P-51 plans, this plane will have more wing surface and room to work with. A better choice to experiment.

Anyway what is one more ball in the air? What the heck. So far the Fuselage went together very fast. The wood or should I say the die cut on this is excellent. all the parts just popped out. This maybe due to the fact that the stringer notches are cut by hand from the plan. It went faster than I expected. The Tight bond is the slowest part so far.

Off to the races……another under modeled overlooked kit is hitting my board. And yes i know, another Mustang. Is it really wrong to like the Mustang? Plus by the looks of it, this kit has not made the Conversion list. Either it is done so much that everyone hates it or you know just another Mustang……Doesn't matter, I like it .

Mark
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Old May 11, 2011, 03:42 PM
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St. Martin's Avatar
Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Hi Mark! Not much diff between a "B" or "C", except..Dallas, and the dorsal extentions that were later carried over onto the "B" and "D". Why not go one step further and make it a "B" Brit with a Malcom hood?

Fuzz
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Old May 11, 2011, 03:57 PM
MPP
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That is a great idea. I do like the look of the Malcom hood. The dorsal I am sure will help also. Either way no D here.

Also getting some time on some of the "other" projects. I am trying your method of several on the board at a time. We will see how it all pans out.

M
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Old May 11, 2011, 04:21 PM
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Do the Excalliber, you know you want to....
Should go like stink on a um P-51 motor too.
Would be cool to half lap join a couple of um props and make a sweet 4 blader.

If you thin Titebond I about 10% it dries a lot faster and is easier to sand.
Glenn
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Old May 11, 2011, 05:56 PM
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Melbourne Beach, Florida
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Excellent idea. I don't care much for the bubble top Mustang, but this is something completely different. Very cool.

Len
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Old May 11, 2011, 06:04 PM
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Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Joined Jan 2001
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Hi Mark,

I built one of those back in 1987 for rubber power. Looked like crap, but we put so much rubber in it that we'd get up to 200 yards of air time.

That's what got me into aero-modeling.

In about 89 or 90, I made a Chipmunk from the same line and we got up to 30 seconds from it indoor (without replacing any of the rock-wood with more suitable stuff). I was flying it outdoor in indoor trim one day, and some guy watching from his backyard came out to tell me he thought it was control-line because it kept flying in circles!


Enjoy the build!


Ron Daniels
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Old May 11, 2011, 06:41 PM
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Mark,
If it makes you feel any better, I've not built one and it's not boring to me.
Build on!

David
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Old May 12, 2011, 08:58 AM
MPP
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Quote:
Do the Excalliber, you know you want to....
Should go like stink on a um P-51 motor too.
Would be cool to half lap join a couple of um props and make a sweet 4 blader.

If you thin Titebond I about 10% it dries a lot faster and is easier to sand.
Glenn
Glenn, strong possibility. I was thinking the same thing on the four blade prop. Couple of guys in the micros have done it with good results. I also like the the beast set up with the brushless 180 and 2S. With a four blade maybe not super fast but certainly more flight time. Thanks for the tip on the tightbond, very helpful.

Thanks Len, I have a few D's in the stable so another with turtle deck will be a nice addition. Of course an Apache A-36 would be also a very cool version and could run a PZ three blade to finish it off. Oh the possibilities.

Ron, Great story, I think that is why we like the Guillows kits so much. We all looked at these as kids with the cool box art, with a rubber band, wind up and we are attempting flight. Albeit you were more successful than myself with your FF planes. Anyway good to know it fly on rubber power.

Thanks David, Blue skies! The way I build, I am sure it will be a bit entertaining .

Best Mark
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Old May 13, 2011, 12:06 PM
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's-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands
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Hi Mark,

I have made this model years ago as a FF model twice. It was one of the few that I actually could get to fly on a rubber band. I think it is a very good conversion subject. You turning it into a B-model makes it extra special. Will be following your progress closely. Good luck with your build.

Robert
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Old May 13, 2011, 12:10 PM
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Rockford Illinois
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Mark, I've been dabbling with the "super 'phatic" glue and it's A)non-toxic, and B) dries in a fraction of the time titebond does. Plus, it's wife/baby safe, so that's always a good thing.

Go to town on this one, I can't wait to see it. Danny (Dangolfs86) just built his up as a tuskeegee airmen model (RET). I witnessed the initial flights and even got a turn on it. It's a nice little model.
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Old May 13, 2011, 12:45 PM
MPP
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Thanks Robert, we will see how it goes. I guess this one was popular for FF. Now with a few ponies under the hood we will see if it behaves.

Dan good stuff. I'll check out the glue but for now thinned TB will be used. I have also dabbed a couple of drops of Thin CA just to get a couple of tricky spots tacked.

Details on the conversion? what power system? UM P-51 guts? wing incidence changes? And I thought this one was overlooked. Cool sounds like a flyer.

I took my precision drafting tool (pencil) to the design studio (messy bench) and carved out my B/C version of the Mustang. Edgar Schmued would have been proud. Well not really. Next I acquired some aircraft grade aluminum (Pink foam) and a sheet metal brake (sanding block) and roughed out the turtle deck and canopy. still needs work as not quite the profile I am looking for.

Oh well I will keep hacking away.

M
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Old May 13, 2011, 02:15 PM
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USA, FL, Tampa
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Ooooh, Beast guts, yummy.
I would think this one would perform well on the stock P-51 stuff and go like it's a$$ is on fire with the Beast equipment.
I changed the wing incedence on both the T-28 and Skyraider models I converted. Easy enough to raise the trailing edge notch in the fuselage side and plug the hole with the original die cut piece that came out.
IIRC, I raised the TE about 1/16 or 3/32" on both to set the wing at zero to the fuselage datum line.
Foam turtle deck looks good.
Glenn
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Old May 13, 2011, 02:37 PM
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Rockford Illinois
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This thing ought to rock on the beast guts. If the extraction goes well let me know, I know of several people that would like a Beast corpse for further study.

Danny's used the Champ gear. It was nearly trimmed out and could do a lap or two around the yard. Some dihedral was necessary given that it was RET, similar to my Dumas Corsair.

I have a park 180, a micro stamp, 2 muscle wire servos and a dirty mind, so I'll be watching with great interest.
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Old May 13, 2011, 03:51 PM
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
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Mix a little line chalk in the thinned TB, Mark. Home DePot has Gorrilla white aliphatic. Dries very fast and is thin like the (good)ole' PICA Glu-It. I mix a little chalk in it and it sands real nice. Line chalk comes in white, blue, yellow (and even pink)

Fuzz
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Old May 13, 2011, 04:57 PM
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I'm going to have to try that glue and chalk.
Does the glue dry clear?
Thanks Fuzz.
Glenn
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