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Old Jul 16, 2012, 06:11 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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What I did was take the tip of a straight pin (one with a round glass head) and use it to pick away at the red stuff until it was all gone. That included inside the slot where the hex key goes. Then the 1.5mm hex key fit perfectly in there and a little torque was enough to release it.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 06:27 PM
Registered User
NorCal
Joined Dec 2009
1,716 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
I had a heck of a time getting my stock adapter off. The setscrew came out, but apparently the threads of the adapter had kind of stripped. Or the setscrew had been overtightened and metal was protruding out of the hole. There was metal (or maybe loctite) holding the adaptor onto the shaft. Ended up having to take the whole assembly off the plane and whacking the heck out of it.
Almost all have that problem. The tap leaves a sharp lead in since they can't countersink it inside so that edge gets pushed into the flat and makes it hard to remove the first time. If there were no flat it would just slide off. That would make it a snap to service but you might lose the assembly in flight.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 07:21 PM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
256 Posts
Well, the 1/16th key was way too big. My tech on the phone said he pulled a radian fuse and checked it...Not so much.

I finally looked at it under my 20 power loupe and the 2mm fit perfectly and was spinning the setscrew, and I just assumed it was not going in...

Right, some blue Locktite and a wrap of teflon tape and I'm set to go tomorrow! Thanks guys!

--Jason

PS: I hope Esprit gets restocked soon, I'm over the stock plastic front end.
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Last edited by Jasong911; Jul 16, 2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: postscript
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 07:38 PM
Old Bold Pilot
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USA, MI, Rochester
Joined Nov 2008
671 Posts
Well, I finally Got-One (pun intended). Maiden was as smooth as silk. Only trimming was for more down elevator mix on flaps and crow.
I am wantng to get the CG back to 77mm. I;m at 70mm now with a 3S 1300ma battery shoved as far back as it can go. So I am convinced that I'll have to add weight to the tail. Anyone have ideas on how move the CG back w/o adding lead?
Dave F
>< *>
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 08:01 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,939 Posts
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Originally Posted by got-one View Post
...So I am convinced that I'll have to add weight to the tail. Anyone have ideas on how move the CG back w/o adding lead?
This is a very good question. Here are some possible answers, but most of them aren't pretty:
1 find a motor that is just as powerful but lighter
2 make the nose shorter
3 move the servos to the rear, and then if necessary, move the receiver and battery.
4 shed 11 grams off the front end by cutting and soldering the wires from the esc to the motor
5 use gold instead of lead because it is smaller and neater and cooler

Of course that is all after you have added useful weight to the tail to make it stiffer. This plane combines being nose heavy with being flimsy in the tail. It is screaming "Mod me!!!"
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Canada, AB, Calgary
Joined Sep 2006
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Originally Posted by got-one View Post
Anyone have ideas on how move the CG back w/o adding lead?
>< *>
If you are looking for a temporary (and possible adjustable) addition of tail weight, I was thinking of using a Velcro One-Wrap (hooks on one side and loops on the other) and maybe slipping it through some washers. Wrapping it around the fuse all the way back should keep it in place.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 08:12 PM
Dixie Normious
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Can A da....Ehh!!
Joined May 2010
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For the guy a few pages ago heres a vid i made last year on Programming the E flight ESC.

Programming starts at 5:40 mark which i linked in the description
StrykerQ overview and ESC programing (11 min 47 sec)
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 09:20 PM
Old Bold Pilot
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USA, MI, Rochester
Joined Nov 2008
671 Posts
Jovnax & Mojo - Thanks for the replys.
I can use some golf club lead strips for a temporary adjustment. I like the idea of removing ESC wire & connecters along with the tail mods.
Thanks,
Dave F
>< *>
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Joined Feb 2011
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From Eastcoast78. For the guy a few pages ago heres a vid i made last year on Programming the E flight ESC.



Thanks Eastcoast78. I was asking about the programming. It actually looks easier than the way the directions explain it. I'll give it a try.
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 06:17 PM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
256 Posts
Well, it went in hard. From at least 200 feet. As a new sailplane guy I have had some knocks with this plane. On the last occasion, directly into the trunk of a small tree with the nose. This was the not the first time the nose had taken a beating. I have had at least 3 nose cracks and Gorilla Glue repairs since the maiden. This last tree deceleration pushed the LiPo into the ESC and bent the capacitors slightly. I chose to fly it again on the same ESC cause I'm cheap. I think the ESC failed in flight as I had no controls or throttle. Other damage includes both elevator and rudder servos being stripped. I have not checked wing servos yet but I hope they are ok.

So I'm considering a 10 amp BEC along with the new ESC as it seems that the stock 30 amp ESC is marginal for 6 servos anyway.

Are the HS-65MG's a good choice for elevator and rudder?

--Jason
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 07:11 PM
What you looking' at fool!
GlidingFool's Avatar
Australia, WA, Morley
Joined Mar 2011
115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasong911 View Post
Well, it went in hard.
Wow! It sure did! That's better than my best effort. Mine is still flying but it's a bit like "my grandfather's axe" (I still use my Grandfather's axe. It's had three new heads and five new handles but it is still my Grandfather's axe).

Anywho . . . Looking at the position of the control surfaces, I wonder if you had a receiver failure rather than a bec failure.

Cheers
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 07:26 PM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by GlidingFool View Post
Anywho . . . Looking at the position of the control surfaces, I wonder if you had a receiver failure rather than a bec failure.

Cheers
All of the wing clevises were detached when I got there. That should explain the jumbled surfaces. So, hopefully not a receiver (AR8000) failure. I need to use some real fuel tubing next time...I thought I saw some fluttering as it went in, too.

I haven't tried to fire up the receiver, I'm still in denial. Maybe tomorrow. The good thing is that my LHS has a new fuse and plenty of ESC's and servos. I just need the Boss's permission to move forward...
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 09:37 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasong911 View Post
Well, it went in hard. From at least 200 feet. As a new sailplane guy I have had some knocks with this plane. On the last occasion, directly into the trunk of a small tree with the nose. This was the not the first time the nose had taken a beating. I have had at least 3 nose cracks and Gorilla Glue repairs since the maiden. This last tree deceleration pushed the LiPo into the ESC and bent the capacitors slightly. I chose to fly it again on the same ESC cause I'm cheap. I think the ESC failed in flight as I had no controls or throttle. Other damage includes both elevator and rudder servos being stripped. I have not checked wing servos yet but I hope they are ok.

So I'm considering a 10 amp BEC along with the new ESC as it seems that the stock 30 amp ESC is marginal for 6 servos anyway.

Are the HS-65MG's a good choice for elevator and rudder?

--Jason
Ever considered RC cars?
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 09:47 PM
Registered User
United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
256 Posts
Ouch. From you, Jumpy, that hurts. <smile> I appreciate your level headed advice here. I would own up if I thought I had caused this one. This is my first plane, actually. I come from helicopters. I love the float and the thermal hunt, so I'm gonna keep after it.

There seems to be a bunch of guys around here (Denver) doing DLG that sound like they know what they are doing so if I can connect with them I figure I can learn to thermal. If I have some wings, that is.

--Jason
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 12:07 AM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
Joined Feb 2007
9,742 Posts
Metal backed leading edges

Just showing I am working on the right wing.

Zor
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