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Old Apr 15, 2012, 02:01 PM
Fly em if ya got em.
leethetreeguy's Avatar
Winder Ga
Joined Sep 2008
12,146 Posts
I have heard this time and time again. To use thumbs on the top of the sticks? To pinch the sticks with thumbs and forefingers? To use thumb on left stick and pinch the right? Most of the really good pilots will tell you really quick to pinch both sticks at all times and use a neck strap. This comes in really handy later on, when you are trying to flip switches during flights. Just my two cents though. To each his own. Like when I was telling some pilots that they should try hand launching there plane with the left hand so that there right hand was all ready on the stick to compensate for COG results. Oh well.
Happy Flyin.
Lee
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 02:12 PM
Professional heli wrecker
Luvmyhelis's Avatar
United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2010
4,303 Posts
I fly with all three methods depending on which heli I am flying and what I am trying to do. Pinch for 3d. (this really only works with upgraded bodystrap flat mounted Tx's) Thumbs for sportflying and all my coaxial flights. Bumping when I want to touch correct swash drift in a hover. Both CP and coax. It all works, and depends on your natural genetics and how you learn. When I do my most enjoyable sportflying, where I am relaxed with a huge grin on my face, I thumb it.

My first plane flight, I had a 3d sport version doing barrel rolls, knife edge passes, throttle hovering, and all the advanced stuff my very first flight. I was bored out of my mind.

Helis for me. .........
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:52 PM
but maybe someday....
notarealpilot's Avatar
Joined Mar 2012
48 Posts
Just looking for a clarification; I thought (and it looks) like the Boomtown M4 boom is to some degree a break away design. Also, Kodak_Jack, what are RADD's?
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:57 PM
Gravity impaired
jrjr's Avatar
United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
1,586 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by notarealpilot View Post
what are RADD's?
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:56 PM
Epilepsy Awareness
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,837 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by notarealpilot View Post
Just looking for a clarification; I thought (and it looks) like the Boomtown M4 boom is to some degree a break away design. Also, Kodak_Jack, what are RADD's?
Will pictures be OK? You caught me at a good time. I'm replacing the swash plate. Here is the Model 4 Boom. It does break away in a bad crash. There is two good reasons for this. First, it breaks away so there is less chance of the boom breaking. Secondly, it breaks away to protect the main frame from any damage, cracking, etc.

Mike.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 11:08 PM
but maybe someday....
notarealpilot's Avatar
Joined Mar 2012
48 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
Thank you, between RADD and rchelicopterfun.com, I have plenty of reading to do! This will take awhile....

Sorry Chap, you're post didn't show up when I answered this the first time. Probably a time zone thing. Yes! The pictures are great, thank you! It really looks like a nice setup. Is see you an aftermarket gear, do you like it better than the stock gear?

Read some RADD last night, like the lesson plan. Look forward to finding sometime to scoot it around in the 3 ft square box.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:38 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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If you look at Mike's pictures, you see the BIG difference between stock motors and the Aero-Nutz motors with the BIG vents in the motor can. Unfortunately, our buddies over seas have decided to make it all but impossible for us to get those motors anymore. THus, the need to look into brushless. The same thing happened with several FP heli's that were popular in days gone by.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:51 AM
Gravity impaired
jrjr's Avatar
United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
1,586 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by notarealpilot View Post
Read some RADD last night, like the lesson plan. Look forward to finding sometime to scoot it around in the 3 ft square box.
OOPS!
Radd says -
Quote:
On a (smooth hard) floor in a space 15 to 20 foot square and clean mark out a chalked box one foot square
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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EXACTLY!! In my learning situation, the heli was twice as big, but still had to stay in that 1 foot square box!
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:49 PM
but maybe someday....
notarealpilot's Avatar
Joined Mar 2012
48 Posts
( everyone hates this part)...I believe in marking out a three foot box on the ground and skidding your heli around untill you get the feel of it. touching the corners of the box and moving forward and backwards. Just always keep the tail pointing towards you and you'll be fine..



I read this is the micro section... not saying your wrong.....I found the part you were quoting too
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 07:43 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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Start in the 3 ft box and work your way toward the foot square one. The important part is disciplining yourself so you're not spending mega bucks on parts.
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 06:16 PM
but maybe someday....
notarealpilot's Avatar
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
Start in the 3 ft box and work your way toward the foot square one. The important part is disciplining yourself so you're not spending mega bucks on parts.
you read my mind...
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 12:15 AM
Professional heli wrecker
Luvmyhelis's Avatar
United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2010
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One thing I have to mention here. I hate this method. It is hard enough to fly, and now you are flying in ground effect. Most guys I train, I get them up much higher. At least 4 to 5ft. Why? To get around ground effect and give them time to react before the heli hits the ground. If a heli is well setup, self hovering and stable. Doing this you will build confidence much quicker. I teach them to get it up this high, then practice left to right and back. Forward and back. Also best done in a larger room to eliminate prop draft, or outside on a non windy day. Again, Do the close to the ground flying in a small room and not only will you have terrible ground effect but severe buffeting from prop induced currents in the room that will throw the heli around in anything less than 4 to 5ft high.

Just something to think about. And another opinion.

Keep it close to the ground in ground effect mode and it is hard to fly. For anyone. For a newbie the heli now acts unpredictibly. Not good. So, from this point. I disagree with Radds.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 06:57 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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I guess I can go along with what you've said, but RADD's is just getting your feet wet. You know most only make it part way through before they get frustrated and go full bore. My suggestion is a nice 2 1/2 car garage. Get the feel of the heli sliding back and forth sideways on a non-carpeted floor. Give yourself PLENTY of room. I started out with an FP, as stated, and almost gave up because I didn't know how to control the vicious left pull on lift off. My rec room furniture has all kinds of marks on it from doing that with a heli that has a larger rotor diameter.
I took my brushless jobbie outside yesterday, but not for long. The wind was a little too strong at times and I didn't want to wreck it.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 09:21 PM
Registered User
Pineville, LA
Joined Dec 2006
309 Posts
Ok guys, crashed my CX2...again. I had just installed the Boomtown Model 4 boom kit, flybar, unbreakable skids, and a new front canopy. Hovered fine, just a little vibration. Considering I had crashed it into some stadium lights about 80 feet up a while back, it still flies pretty good.

I was flying around this evening in zero wind conditions and started getting a little too much speed coming around in a turn with full FF and pulled back a little to quickly on the stick and had a blade strike. I guess I better move the servo arms back into the stock position.

Any tips on how to recover it when it starts getting squirrely? If I pull back to quickly on the stick it starts wobbling around and going out of control. I usually give it a little more throttle but this time I had a blade strike. Fortunately it was over the grass at about 15 feet up.

No real damage except a crack in the nose and broken blades. At least you can't see the crack.
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