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Old Apr 29, 2014, 04:30 PM
I crash stuff
DeGrizzle's Avatar
United States, MI, Holland
Joined Dec 2013
91 Posts
Help!
Some pointers would be great!!!

I posted this at helifreak, but I thought I would also ask here, because this forum seems to get a little more traffic:

So last night I came across a video on how to set zero pitch on the nano cpx (might have been the mcpx) which I found very helpful. I wish I would have bookmarked it... I think it might have been indoorheli's video.

Anyway, it came in handy, since my zero pitch was a notch above the midpoint since I bought it. Two questions came to me while watching it, and then setting zero pitch on my nano.

1. The very beginning of the video he says "assuming your swashplate is level..." I just eyeballed it, and it looked ok, but, is there a proper way to do this? I have heard of swashplate levelers, but I thought those were only used on the bigger heli's.

2. Now that I have zero pitch at midstick, what happens if all the way up and all the way down on the sticks don't equal the same amount of pitch change? I've read in other places to adjust it so that it is equal. Do I adjust this in the TX, or on the heli itself? To me, if I adjust it in the TX it seems like I would shorten the max pitch at one end (or maybe travel adjust) until they are equal... but wouldn't doing it that way limit total travel distance, meaning less movement ability?

Last thing, as a side note. I bought an extreme blade balancer from wowhobbies, and it is supposed to work with these small blades, but I don't know if they are heavy enough to really balance them this way... I usually only manage to make things worse with it. I've heard people mention "dynamically" balancing their blades. How does one do this, exactly?

Any video's on these topics would be fantastic, but if there isn't video, any other suggestions would be more than welcome as well.

Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 29, 2014, 09:04 PM
Where's the swimming pool
spykez's Avatar
Joined Jul 2011
1,029 Posts
Eyeball is fine.

For zero pitch, use the tool drop (toothpick) in grip bolt hole method. On a sloppy nano, it's a bit better than blade fold, as there is less slop than the blades.

Once you have zero pitch, to confirm your swash is reasonably level, spin the head round, and take a bead off the toothpicks in your grip bolt holes. They should not swim (much) and be straight and true relative to each other (and ideally with the main shaft as well but this is hard to see obviously). If the toothpicks don't swim much and remain quite true, your swash is good to go.

The fixed pitch linkages determine a set swash height. Check your main gear has not slipped and then adjust swash linkages till you have zero pitch the above way and that your swash is flat.

You can subtrim pitch to get the pitch closer to zero as the linkage turn resolution may not allow a perfect zero.

You should get fairly even collective travel, fold your blades 90 to the spindle to one side and apply full collective either way. The separation angle made by the blades and the spindle roughly indicates your collective pitch. It may not be perfectly the same, but if it looks roughly ok, you can flight tune it. You can also just use the toothpicks in the bolt holes.

This angle is determined by your absolute pitch (collective) travel assuming no cyclic input.

The nano with a fresh motor will handle 90-100% absolute travel no problem, without the tail blowing out.

Tweak the thing to suit your taste. I don't usually bother about the angle there I'll be honest. I don't even know how much pitch I run on the nano. What I do is take it out, punch it up, watch the climb rate, adjust the atv till it climbs at the speed I like, without blowing the tail out, this will depend on nano to nano. Flip it over, do an inverted climb and adjust so the climb outs are the same.

I usually do that on the first flight of all heli's just to see that nothing has changed. If you have uneven pitch, you'll notice immediately, and that should prompt a check of the main gear, it may have slipped a little.

That's what I do with all my blade submicros from nano to 130X. Fwiw.
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