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Old Sep 13, 2011, 02:29 AM
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Yes, this helps a lot, thanks crasdumby.
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Old Sep 13, 2011, 03:45 AM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
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Originally Posted by fpvigilante View Post
How did you get the fy20 to work,do you use any jumper.I'm having some issue's with the servos moving individually with my fy21ap connected.
I have an FY20 in the Swift 2 and you must connect the jumper between C8 and C9. It is exactly the same for the FY21.

I have a Futaba 9C and can look at some TX settings if you have one of those or have you got it going by now?
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Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:07 AM
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This may help with your question about set ups.

Swift II setup (6 min 37 sec)
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Old Sep 16, 2011, 01:19 AM
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Flying my rc flying wing around Glasson Dock (2 min 44 sec)


Just a quick video of me blasting my swift about Glasson Dock (near Lancaster, Lancashire, UK). I got myself a cheapo ebay camera that seems to have a focal point at about 3 meters :-( .
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Old Sep 18, 2011, 05:57 AM
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What's the current state-of-the-art for stiffening the swift with CF? tube or flat? Location? Thanks!
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Old Sep 18, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeR View Post
What's the current state-of-the-art for stiffening the swift with CF? tube or flat? Location? Thanks!
Really, don't bother. Spanwise strapping tape per instructions makes the wing as stiff as it needs to be.
Eric
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 08:53 AM
Firepower
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Originally Posted by GlideAngles View Post
Really, don't bother. Spanwise strapping tape per instructions makes the wing as stiff as it needs to be.
Eric
I always over engineer everything and put 2 long and 2 short CF rods in mine but am running a 2730/3000 fast motor.

Even for very fast ones you would still not put CF in them?
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
I always over engineer everything and put 2 long and 2 short CF rods in mine but am running a 2730/3000 fast motor.

Even for very fast ones you would still not put CF in them?
Still, don't need it. Mine is wicked fast at 160 Watts, and shows no sign of flex at wide-open-throttle.

If your objective is to fly it as fast as it can be made to go, elevon flutter will be the first thing to break it. If your objective is to crash it into things going as fast as it can be made to without breaking it, a case can be made for CF rods (and edge cord, and lots more tape).
Eric
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 10:27 PM
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Are the styrene tubes that come with the kit, pushrod guides or should i glue them to the pushrods for rigidity and let the whole pushrod just float between the Servo horn and control horn on the elevon?

I have carbon tube epoxied over my Trex 600e's tail control rod to eliminate flexing, so i figured i'd ask to see if anyone knows.

cheers,
Brian
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Last edited by TooSLow2Care; Sep 25, 2011 at 10:28 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 05:09 AM
Firepower
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Originally Posted by TooSLow2Care View Post
Are the styrene tubes that come with the kit, pushrod guides or should i glue them to the pushrods for rigidity and let the whole pushrod just float between the Servo horn and control horn on the elevon?

I have carbon tube epoxied over my Trex 600e's tail control rod to eliminate flexing, so i figured i'd ask to see if anyone knows.

cheers,
Brian
The tubes get glued to the wing. I have just put a spot of thick CA about 2.5mm in from each end.

As you would know do the gluing of the tube as the last thing so that you can line the tube up in the best place before gluing. My tubes ended up about 3cm from the trailing edge but just judge for yourself hold down the tubes and move the elevons with the TX so you find the best place to glue it.

I suspect you would have to change the rod and tubing if you wanted to do it the other way but why bother, as this way works perfectly and keeps it away from damage when the push rod is on the bottom like mine.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Firepower View Post
The tubes get glued to the wing. I have just put a spot of thick CA about 2.5mm in from each end.

As you would know do the gluing of the tube as the last thing so that you can line the tube up in the best place before gluing. My tubes ended up about 3cm from the trailing edge but just judge for yourself hold down the tubes and move the elevons with the TX so you find the best place to glue it.

I suspect you would have to change the rod and tubing if you wanted to do it the other way but why bother, as this way works perfectly and keeps it away from damage when the push rod is on the bottom like mine.
...or if you wanted to be really clever, you could imbed the tube in a chord-wise slit in the wing and glue it in with thin CA. With a little attention to positioning the servo in the thickness of the wing, the control wire would have a nearly straight run between the servo arm and elevon horn, with only the aft 3cm or so exposed.
Eric
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by GlideAngles View Post
Really, don't bother. Spanwise strapping tape per instructions makes the wing as stiff as it needs to be.
Eric
I assembled mine originally with the strapping tape as directed. However the tape didn't stick well and it covers up the graphics on the top. Some of the guys I fly with embedded a CF tube/rod in the wing and did not tape. Sure looks cleaner. They've had theirs for a couple years so I wanted to check this thread and see if anything better has come along. I'm kind of tired of the strapping tape look on EPP foamies.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeR View Post
I assembled mine originally with the strapping tape as directed. However the tape didn't stick well and it covers up the graphics on the top. Some of the guys I fly with embedded a CF tube/rod in the wing and did not tape. Sure looks cleaner. They've had theirs for a couple years so I wanted to check this thread and see if anything better has come along. I'm kind of tired of the strapping tape look on EPP foamies.
I can understand that. I spray on 3M-77 or 3M-90 adhesive before taping to get better adhesion. Packing tape doesn't handle UV well, so I cover any that's going to be in the sun a lot with colored packing tape. I don't have any tape on the upper surfaces of my two Swift II's, but for about an inch width wrapped over the top from bottom on the leading edges (and about the same between the elevons at the trailing edges) to prevent chunking during midairs. I don't do a lot of high-gee extreme outside maneuvering, and tape on the uppers would be wasted on the way I fly.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 08:12 PM
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thanks for the information guys,

This is where i am in my build.


I am putting the servos on the top for safety during those less than perfect landings on my grass strip and the local fields.
I made a compartment with a .125" thick plywood spine and .094" ply sheeting.

i have also added a carbon spar across the nose and a longer one just behind the center of lift. (still in front of the CoG) I can tell you, this wing became surprisingly rigid when the PU Glue and CA cured/dried overnight

i then lined the trailing edges of the elevons with a thin strip of carbon for durability and reduced drag and another small spar for rigidity of the elevons.

I repositioned the servos so the force is perpendicular to the hinge of each elevon. That is why i wanted to know about the use of the guides for the control lines and placement there of.

cheers,
Brian
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 11:43 PM
Firepower
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North Brisbane, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooSLow2Care View Post
thanks for the information guys,

This is where i am in my build.


I am putting the servos on the top for safety during those less than perfect landings on my grass strip and the local fields.
I made a compartment with a .125" thick plywood spine and .094" ply sheeting.

i have also added a carbon spar across the nose and a longer one just behind the center of lift. (still in front of the CoG) I can tell you, this wing became surprisingly rigid when the PU Glue and CA cured/dried overnight

i then lined the trailing edges of the elevons with a thin strip of carbon for durability and reduced drag and another small spar for rigidity of the elevons.

I repositioned the servos so the force is perpendicular to the hinge of each elevon. That is why i wanted to know about the use of the guides for the control lines and placement there of.

cheers,
Brian
Guess you'll have to sort that one out yourself as I suspect no one/not too many have changed the position of the servos. I originally had your thought and did not like the pushrods at an angle to the hinge but left it standard.

My metal rod is very thin at about .8mm so if you glue the guides to the rods it may be stiff enough as yours are short. Just do it and hold the servo arm and see how much pressure it takes to bend it. It may be all right. The worst that can happen is you will have to use a different push rod.

One thing I would suggest is to mount the motor and prop before gluing on the motor mount. I find it impossible to line up just the mount properly when gluing. With the motor and prop on you can check the distances from the tip of the prop to the trailing edge and get it right.

I put mine straight but I suspect it should be turned a bit to the left looking from the front. Anyone got any comment on that?
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