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Old Aug 23, 2012, 10:57 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
Heat will soften the epoxy, too much heat will damage the coating. I just try to peel the glue off as best I can or even trim it flat to the green with a eXacto knife without damaging the green.

If the chips are on a corner where the wire will wrap over a sharp edge it is best to try to patch the chip with a dab of epoxy, JBweld, or something like that.

If you can get wire around it without any shorts, it is still in play IMHO.

Jack
The glue "feels" like a CA type glue. Anyone tried some acetone?
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 11:54 AM
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praymond's Avatar
New Hampshire-seacoast area
Joined Jun 2005
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question about old style BW's 16 mag, ABC

I can't find my data sheet at the moment. from my rewinds. Would a 12 turn ABC wind on the older size BW be similar to the present day 1500KV Bw's?

basically I'm wanting a BW stock motor to run a 7x6 apc style prop on 3 cells and not heat up
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 03:09 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
I wonder if it is similar to an epoxy paint like you would use on a fiberglass boat.
It is actually a power coating and goes on thicker than most paints, flows to a smooth finish, and does not thin out and leave sharp edges at the sharp corners of the arms. So anything you can do to keep sharp corners from nicking the coating on the wire is worthy of consideration. For small localized repairs, trapping pieces of Tyvek or kapton tape or film under the windings will work too.

Jack
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickflaguy View Post
The glue "feels" like a CA type glue. Anyone tried some acetone?
I tried acetone. At room temp not much happened after 6hours submerged. Then I heated the acetone and got some action. Unfortunately the green coating also came off in big chunks. I had to make fiberglass stator end caps to fix that one... not fun at all. Xacto surgery is the best way to get the clear gunk out. I like a toothpick and black CA to repair nicked corners. I tried kapton and baking paper, and depending how bad the insulation damage is, the stuff can be hard to keep it where you want it while winding.

Kev
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:26 AM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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Rewind problem

A friend rewound my BW motor. 4.4x4.1 prop showed 20 amps on a 20 amp esc. I don't have another higher rated esc so I went flying. FAST!

Lost all power and control. Nice landing onits own too!.

When retesting the esc got warm fast and the motor stayed cool.

I had another mysterious power failure with that esc and a totally diferent set up. I am guessing that the esc has issues. I am assuming if shorted, the motor would be hot and the esc would be toast. It isn't toast.

Ideas?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:18 PM
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Carmichael, CA
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Rick, a 20A esc at 20A with high RPM... at first glance it doesn't sound good for the esc. What kind of esc is it anyways?

To check the motor I would try running it without a prop, with an esc I know works. Without a prop even a 10A esc is enough. If it doesn't spin then you know it's toast... don't try too hard if it doesn't startup right away, or you may blow the 10A esc too. If it spins, measure current to check if it is in line with what the wind is supposed to do. Same thing for the 20A esc; you can use a known working motor to verify if it's toast, or not.

Also, that was a 20A esc pulling 20A. Is this esc current limited? If it is, then it is possible your setup wants to do more... who knows how much more... hehe. I think a 25 or even a 30A esc would be a better fit. Try to pick one that has all high end N-Fets, because they're more efficient than the older style P/N fet type esc's. Some esc's are also known for handling high RPM better than others (Tgy Plush, HK Blue, Tgy AE... etc.). This list shows which esc's have all N-fets, and which ones have P/N fets:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...BQkZZRlE#gid=0

Cheers,
Kev
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 10:15 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by praymond View Post
question about old style BW's 16 mag, ABC

I can't find my data sheet at the moment. from my rewinds. Would a 12 turn ABC wind on the older size BW be similar to the present day 1500KV Bw's?

basically I'm wanting a BW stock motor to run a 7x6 apc style prop on 3 cells and not heat up
I don't see where you got an answer to this question. I just rewound a 12N16P BW a few days ago and did the research on this. 12 turns ABC with 24 AWG, terminated Y, should give you about a 1512 Kv.

I wanted the 1300 Kv and did 14 turns and hit very close to that at 1294 on a raw Kv. I see in Trug's spreadsheets where some have done 14 turns with 24 AWG on the 12N16P motors but I just could not get the turns to fit. So I fell back to 26 AWG (don't have any 25) and with that I still had to thread the money turns to get them in all nice and neat.

From the test winds I did with 24 AWG, 12 turns will fit fine.

But I'm very happy with the motor I did, my first ever BW and first ABC wind. There was only a small increase in surface area over the 0.39mm (about 25.5 AWG) wire that was on the motor but the motor is remarkably better. One example, I ran a GWS RS EP-1047 slow fly at full throttle on 3S for over 80 seconds and got the following (I don't measure thrust):

4,973 RPM, 10.6V, 8.1A 86W

The temp (taken right on the windings) rose to 104F and stabilized there during the long run.

I played around with some larger and heavier props later on 3S and this is now a good solid 100W continuous on 3S motor. And it will still turn some of the larger props on 2S too so it will be a very versatile motor.

You should probably do as well at the higher Kv with your APC 7 x 6.

Jack
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 12:16 AM
TeachSeventh
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Houston
Joined Dec 2008
114 Posts
2730 Hybrid, Sorta

I too have been disappointed with the last batch (4) 2730 bearing quality. On top of that, I started spitting out magnets, like false teeth.

I took the guts of my 2730 and married it with the shell of an EMAX GT2205/33 Came with 14 magnets in a nice heavy duty shell and fit the 2730 stator perfect.

I put it on my latest 2EZ Delta and it looks cool and runs smoother than ever.

Here's a Tube, hope y'alll have a great week!

Hybrid 2730 with EMAX GT2205 Shell 14 Magnet (0 min 34 sec)
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:39 PM
I'm overcoming gravity!
Murman's Avatar
USA, NC, Huntersville
Joined Jul 2008
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My last two black and red 3000kv motors have had magnets come loose and when a buddy me mine gave me another this week, I noticed it had a loose magnet. what's the best glue to use to securely attach these mags?
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:58 PM
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Chattanooga, Tennessee, United States
Joined May 2003
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JB-Weld
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 09:32 PM
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USA, NC, Huntersville
Joined Jul 2008
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Thanks Doc. The JB-Weld is curing now. I found 2 more loose mags while making this repair. The quality difference between the Red/Black and the Red/Blue Wonders is becoming apparent. I've never had any problems with the Red&Blue's mags coming loose.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:40 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
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The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
10,593 Posts
Magnetpoles glued in alternatingly? Orientation/polarity matters, a lot:
N-S-N-S-N-S-...
Checking with a spare magnet:
attract-repel-attract-repel-attract- ...

See also
/www.torcman.de/index_e.htm
-> downloads
-> Assembly Procedure TM280, 350, 430
-> Chapter 3: Glueing the rotor and the magnets

(The UHU Plus Endfest mentioned there is a good quality two-component epoxy glue this side of the big pond).

Prettig weekend Ron
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:44 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,851 Posts
If you want a good how to on installing magnets the Komodo kit motor assembly manuals are hard to beat:

12 arm stators - http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/...o/KH-257-2.pdf

9 arm stators - http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/.../KH-278-v2.pdf

They even have the little templates in there for getting the magnets spaced correctly.

Jack
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 10:07 PM
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United States, FL, West Melbourne
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truglodite View Post
Rick, a 20A esc at 20A with high RPM... at first glance it doesn't sound good for the esc. What kind of esc is it anyways?

To check the motor I would try running it without a prop, with an esc I know works. Without a prop even a 10A esc is enough. If it doesn't spin then you know it's toast... don't try too hard if it doesn't startup right away, or you may blow the 10A esc too. If it spins, measure current to check if it is in line with what the wind is supposed to do. Same thing for the 20A esc; you can use a known working motor to verify if it's toast, or not.

Also, that was a 20A esc pulling 20A. Is this esc current limited? If it is, then it is possible your setup wants to do more... who knows how much more... hehe. I think a 25 or even a 30A esc would be a better fit. Try to pick one that has all high end N-Fets, because they're more efficient than the older style P/N fet type esc's. Some esc's are also known for handling high RPM better than others (Tgy Plush, HK Blue, Tgy AE... etc.). This list shows which esc's have all N-fets, and which ones have P/N fets:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...BQkZZRlE#gid=0

Cheers,
Kev
Not sure what this wind should draw but it came out as 2 amps without a prop. No heat. Does that sound right? Seems a little high. The esc works OK on other BW stock 1700 kv motor.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 09:17 AM
Winging it >
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Joined May 2006
9,484 Posts
8p nn-ss-nn-ss

Would it make sense to wind adjacent teeth like DLRK but both adjacent teeth wound in the same direction so that instead of 12 teeth it appears that there are only 6 teeth? Looking for high kV that is easier on the esc.
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