Originally Posted by Bo Lorentzen

But the thing flies like a dream, is a ton of fun just as it is.. ain't remotely possible we might be overthinking and overengineering the power consumption and maybe everything else for that matter. time to crack open a beer and go fly until I crash something in the backyard.

From one engineer to another

The video was to establish peak current draws under full stick operation to evaluate possible ESC damage..... Period.

When flying casually in GPS/ATTI mode for longer flight times, only enough stick needed to hover gave me 5 more minutes of flight time with no more stress on the ESC's than a 3S

I'm with Tony... going to keep my mouth shut from now on regarding 4S batteries and just use them. I have spent a couple hours of testing, videoing and uploading so all interested could make their own "educated decision". I will now leave it at that.

I am not endorsing, suggesting or encouraging their use.

It was very windy day but I could not wait to test my mount. Flying time was 5s longer then expected So there is a jello free 2.7k and crash in one 30 sec clip. Video is unusable but looks like is jello free. Resized from 2.7k to 720p for Vimeo. Fisheye reduced no other effects applied. Can do another flight because have to wait for new props

Gopro 2.7k quad crash (0 min 37 sec)

I'll say it was windy... look at the trees swaying from the GoPro..

Originally Posted by T J Gilbert

Your comment about the props unscrewing themselves tells you that after every blade-strike, you need to check your prop nuts.
As far as cleaning an outrunner, there's a search function on RCG that work's wonderfully.
It gave me this...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...r#post23741568

Thanks TJ!

Just got the GoodLuckBuy gimbal in the mail today.

Mjah, I missed the fact that the servos do not ship with it, no worries I have plenty in stock. but since it is entirely a direct drive gimbal, I already know exactly what I get from direct drive. just wanted to play with it.

Picture of all the parts in the package.

Originally Posted by HighGainTuning

[B]When flying casually in GPS/ATTI mode for longer flight times, only enough stick needed to hover gave me 5 more minutes of flight time with no more stress on the ESC's than a 3S

5 minutes is a respectable number. fully loaded for bear, with Gopro, gimbal and vtx, I figure 6-8 minutes on stock battery. I set the alarm to go off after 5 minutes when flying over areas where I can't recover. having a few extra minutes in the tank would not hurt.

I thought they came with servos also.
That's some poor milling of the CF. Most 3K CF I have been receiving from Asia is cut very clean. Looks like a lot of stray strands.

With GLB you never know what you may get. I had an order where they forgot an entire quad frame. Sometimes parts are ok, sometimes things are missing, sometimes stuff is dumped loose in a box. I once had Bluetooth boards shipped loose with aluminum tubes, not even so much as in a zip lock bag, let alone a padded anti static one.

Cheap gimbals are typically one thing - cheap. A gimbal with sloppy loose fittings is worse than no gimbal at all.

@HighGain yeah, im a little underwhelmed.

The two boards for the isolation unit is CF, the gimbal itself is metal of sorts bend to shape, and the cool red isolation bells are very stiff, likely no way in heck they are going to isolate the camera enough to remove jello. and the package did not include a velcro strap to attach the camera, only literally the hard parts in the below images and the screws to hold them together. (not shown the bar to hold the one servo)

I will be putting it together and give it a whirl, and will likely redo the setup gluing in place my normal choice of 10x10mm sorbothane cubes.
You already know about me and double-side tape.

I think it is OK hardware, and at 48g "ok" remember to add probably 20+ grams of servos.

Me thinks the name says it all "Good Luck Buy" duck, roll n cover.

Originally Posted by Sid3ways

You guys might consider just mounting the ClikIt somehow to Phantom. Guaranteed to rid you of Jello issues.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...06&postcount=1

I did a test on the Phantom with a wire rope isolation set up. Quite good results, but ugly set up. Still working on a better design when I have time.

Phantom DJI - Wire Rope Isolator Jello test for Go Pro Hero (3 min 44 sec)

The issue is with this type of set up you find that their testing is done with the camera and wire setup is sitting on top of the their quads (weight compressing down on the wire rope rig), with the Phantom the wire rope rig is hanging down under the Phantom and then you need to brace the wire isolation onto the landing skids to stop the swinging movement. The other issue is the depth as the Go Pro camera passes below the landing skids. But it is good to see these designs coming out.

JS

Originally Posted by Bo Lorentzen

@HighGain yeah, im a little underwhelmed.

The two boards for the isolation unit is CF, the gimbal itself is metal of sorts bend to shape, and the cool red isolation bells are very stiff, likely no way in heck they are going to isolate the camera enough to remove jello. and the package did not include a velcro strap to attach the camera, only literally the hard parts in the below images and the screws to hold them together. (not shown the bar to hold the one servo)

I will be putting it together and give it a whirl, and will likely redo the setup gluing in place my normal choice of 10x10mm sorbothane cubes.
You already know about me and double-side tape.

I think it is OK hardware, and at 48g "ok" remember to add probably 20+ grams of servos.

Me thinks the name says it all "Good Luck Buy" duck, roll n cover.

Man, that carbon looks like it was cut with a dull spoon...

Just got my Phantom and have looked at all prop and motor balancing videos so I'm very confident I'll be able to do the actual balancing. What I haven't found was how to isolate and run each of the motors of the Phantom to check the vibration level. From what I've gathered each motor is soldered in but someone suggested to disconnect the ESC. My only hesitation is whether unplugging the ESCs on the Phantom is safe to do without damaging any other components.

The other question I have is how do most of you time the run length of each battery. I know the LED starts blinking red when battery is low but that may be too late to bring the bird down safely. My hobby grade TXs have a built in timer to set but the Phantom doesn't.

Originally Posted by Casperhyde

Just got my Phantom and have looked at all prop and motor balancing videos so I'm very confident I'll be able to do the actual balancing. What I haven't found was how to isolate and run each of the motors of the Phantom to check the vibration level. From what I've gathered each motor is soldered in but someone suggested to disconnect the ESC. My only hesitation is whether unplugging the ESCs on the Phantom is safe to do without damaging any other components.

The other question I have is how do most of you time the run length of each battery. I know the LED starts blinking red when battery is low but that may be too late to bring the bird down safely. My hobby grade TXs have a built in timer to set but the Phantom doesn't.

Casper, I find about 30-45sec on blinking red.

Try peeling the stickers off the motors first, that might just do the trick.
pulling the servo cable from the NAZA box is no problem, will not hurt, but make sure you put them back in where they came from when done.

Here is that previous video that can be viewed in its original 2.7k form. Again, this is the result with freshly crashed props and they aren't balanced well either since I broke my balancer and am waiting for a new one.

Sequence 02 (2 min 11 sec)

Originally Posted by Bo Lorentzen

@HighGain yeah, im a little underwhelmed.

The two boards for the isolation unit is CF, the gimbal itself is metal of sorts bend to shape, and the cool red isolation bells are very stiff, likely no way in heck they are going to isolate the camera enough to remove jello. and the package did not include a velcro strap to attach the camera, only literally the hard parts in the below images and the screws to hold them together. (not shown the bar to hold the one servo)

I will be putting it together and give it a whirl, and will likely redo the setup gluing in place my normal choice of 10x10mm sorbothane cubes.
You already know about me and double-side tape.


I think it is OK hardware, and at 48g "ok" remember to add probably 20+ grams of servos.

Me thinks the name says it all "Good Luck Buy" duck, roll n cover.

I just checked out their site... Guess What? There not showing it with servos anymore.

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/two-axis-...uadcopter.html