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Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:02 PM
Senior Moments...I forgot
JohnC's Avatar
New Hyde Park, NY
Joined Mar 2001
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walker JR

I am thinking I would like to do a Dave Robelan "Walker Jr". A ten inch biplane. 5 grams

The original JR used Plantraco gear and very tiny balsa. Have the stick problem with the Pantraco transmitter been resolved? Do they still break easy?

I am thinking using the very thin control rods from a 4 site as a replacement for the .021 balsa.

Anybody try flying the walker JR in a living room.

My original walker flys so slow and regal. You can actually walk faster than the plane easily. It is a real joy to fly.

Any thoughts.

John F. Clarke
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 03:46 PM
Senior Moments...I forgot
JohnC's Avatar
New Hyde Park, NY
Joined Mar 2001
1,007 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
I am thinking I would like to do a Dave Robelan "Walker Jr". A ten inch biplane. 5 grams

The original JR used Plantraco gear and very tiny balsa. Have the stick problem with the Pantraco transmitter been resolved? Do they still break easy?

I am thinking using the very thin control rods from a 4 site as a replacement for the .021 balsa.

Anybody try flying the walker JR in a living room.

My original walker flys so slow and regal. You can actually walk faster than the plane easily. It is a real joy to fly.

Any thoughts.

John F. Clarke
I solved the stick problem I will use deltang RX's from Bob Selmen and use my DX-7.
So far it looks I will use ulta thin carbon fiber rods from 4 sites as the framing of the wings and tail. The ribs will be thin balsa sliced ribs. A test showed it works well.

John
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:11 AM
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Idaho
Joined Sep 2001
156 Posts
Walkers

John:
I thought I had kept you aboard on my series of models inspired by Dave's fine Walker design. My first was a 24 " -27 gm version I call the Walkabout. The next was a 10" - 5.1 gm version, 4mm geared I call the Lit'l Walkabout and the last one is an 8" - 3.1 gram 4mm DD version I call the LRWalker. Both of the smaller ones are Plantraco guided all are extremely fine fliers. The 10 inch is more of a vollyball court size and the smallest one does comfortable figure eights in a 12 foot living room. I measured the speed of the 10 inch version at 4.8 mph but the 8" is surprisingly a bit slower.
You just can't go wrong in any size with the Walker pattern but as they get smaller weight is a major challenge and the laser parts are pretty much required for me.
If you want the working CAD drawings let me know but they are dedicated to a "one off" project. I do have a fair fabrication document on the 10" version I thought I posted earlier.

Carl
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:23 AM
Senior Moments...I forgot
JohnC's Avatar
New Hyde Park, NY
Joined Mar 2001
1,007 Posts
Carl You are a great builder. I am glad you gave me a heads up on the 10 inch version. My aim is to fly in my living room. My lady loves seeing me fly at the Cradle of Aviation museum or in my living room.

I am looking at using Deltang equipment since I have a DX-7 Transmitter. The only thing that puts me off is soldering to the pads. I have a 15 watt iron and I do fine wires easily but....

John F. Clarke
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Last edited by JohnC; Sep 11, 2012 at 08:39 AM.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 04:30 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Jun 2012
82 Posts
Carl, lovely looking models. Can I ask what prop you used on the LRWalker? I've struggled to find anything suitable for that sort of scale.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 11:41 PM
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Idaho
Joined Sep 2001
156 Posts
Ultra micro props

Thanks MW.
Several years ago I worked up a heat shrink hub design for the very tiny drives and and posted it on the forum but I can't seem to find it now. The heat shrink tubing gives a very suitable grip over a prop shaft for any 4mm DD or geared or a 6mm DD.
The Walker pattern model is very forgiving on props because the forward protruding fuselage runs interference for the propeller. The LR Walker has 1.25" Larabee blades and the Li'L Walkabout is a 2.5" ARC pattern.
The collage shows some of the steps for making the heat shrink hub/prop:
1 - Sheets of laser cut props and at bottom a sheet that has been wrapped wet and let dry around a 1" dia dowel (15 degree) angle.
2 - Heatshrink on drill shank, ~.005" less than the prop shaft diameter and shrunk with lighter.
3 - Squeeze end of tube flat with pliers while still soft.
4 - Push #17 pin thru flattened end and insert .020" CF rod.
5 - Dab of canopy cement on flat/rod. (I like to use canopy cement or similar to retain some give)
6 - Some typical hub assemblies.
7 - A simple pitch jig to attach blades. Here it is important to use canopy cement. Don't use CA!
8 & 9 - Some finished props.

These hubs are OK for the LR's but not what you want on something that has to bounce off the walls. The LRWalker blades are soft balsa sanded to .015" with a .015" dia CF rod and the prop weighs slightly less than .025g.

I hope this makes sense. I can work up some more description if there's interest.
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