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Old Jun 29, 2016, 03:18 AM
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Glue for Foam & Depron

Hi all

Whats your favourite glue for foam & depron

Anyone recommend a white glue (PVA) type that is good for foam & Depron.

Anything else you would recommend.

Thanks for any input to this question.

Paul
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 03:24 AM
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There are dozens of different types of "foam". I can't think of a single glue that works well for all of them.

Steve
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 03:31 AM
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Hot glue.
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 04:01 AM
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I was thinking the usual foams often encountered in modelling, so EPA, EPP, Depron, Blue & Pink Builders, Artist Foam Boards.

These are some of the glues I have seen recommended but don't have any experience with most of them.

Hot Glue.
HobbyKing Foam Glue
Delux Materials Foam to Foam
Delux Materials R/C Modellers Glue AKA Canopy Glue (Not sure if this is the same as their old Glue 'n' Glaze
UHU POR
UHU Hart
Epoxy
Foam Safe CA

The only one I have used is Hot Glue which can be a bit risky on foam as it can be too hot and melt it and can be quite heavy if used in quantity for a full construction.

Any recommendations from that list or others that you have used with success.

Or anything to avoid
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 05:27 AM
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I like UHU Por for small models built with depron, EPS(white) or XPS(blue or pink).

I've also used Gorilla glue though it foams so much it can be a bit messy. Any PVA/aliphatic will also work but dries very slowly (Titebond II is what I usually have around).

Never used foam board or EPP. Never even heard of EPA.

Steve
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Old Jun 29, 2016, 09:10 AM
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I would give someone 5 billion dollars (on the installment plan) to invent a foam glue that was easily sandable.

The closest I have come is using Glidden Gripper primer as an adhesive like the guys that build small camping trailers do.

All the "regular" foam glues are impossible to sand to an even surface along with the surrounding foam.

Tom
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Old Jul 01, 2016, 06:14 AM
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A few glues not mentioned are;

1. Gorilla Glue - white formula - one of my favorites. A little practice with this product to get used to using as little as possible and using masking tape, boards, and clamps to control foaming and getting full contact on laminations. This is like gluing foam with foam.

2. Foam Tac - stays flexible, works well for fast assembly times, but needs to be able to outgas, otherwise it will melt etruded polystyrene foams. A little gummy when it comes to sanding. This contact type of adhesive is solvent based.

3. Foam Cure - dries to a crisp, works well, and makes for fast assembly times. Sanding is somewhat harder, but usually a very fine line. Also a contact type glue that is silicone based.

Ken
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Old Jul 01, 2016, 06:48 AM
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Thanks for all the replies, will look into those I can get this side of the big pond.

Have heard good things about the Gorilla White, but sadly Gorilla UK don't import it, and shipping cost are prohibitive because of it weight.
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Old Jul 01, 2016, 09:35 AM
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Just done a test on the few I have.

I used the following to glue Pink Foam to Pink foam, allowed them 24 hours to cure/set then measured how much force they took to break the joint

HobbyKing Foam glue, this one in theory came out top, not because the joint was stronger but because the joint remained flexible so it just bent 90deg without failing.

Delux Materials Foam to Foam, the joint failed at 1000g of pressure

Hot Glue (A quality Clear Glue), the joint failed at 1500g of pressure

Foam safe Cyno. The Joint failed at 1800g of pressure

Not in anyway scientific but an indication of what I have available

Obviously each product might give totally different results on other types of foam, but I only had pink builders foam to hand to test, will do some more when I get more glues and foam types.
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Old Jul 19, 2016, 01:20 PM
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Hi all

Just by way of a quick update

I have been trying out a new find for gluing Foam etc, its a Polyurethane glue like Gorilla but unlike Gorilla it only takes 5 Minutes to set and is a fraction of the cost of Gorilla as well.

Its well worth a look

Paul

A UK link but I am sure its also available over the big pond.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Everb...W/282085991098
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Old Jul 20, 2016, 03:40 AM
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Two glues are all I use.... UHU por contact adhesive for all laminations and cool melt adhesive for tougher areas and reinforcing butt joints with a bead of the glue in/along the corners of a joint ...

I do like the look of that everbuild you've found, that's got to be worth a go...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1821821546...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
the cheapest I found... 8.25.. so I ordered some..
now Ive found out its brown coloured.. lol..

uhu is about 3 for 40-50ml the everbuild is for 750ml... IF that works for laminations and joints it is a winner..
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Old Jul 20, 2016, 04:21 AM
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It also works for laminating Foamboard together to make super rigid 10mm boards.
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Old Jul 20, 2016, 07:19 AM
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For sheeting , I use Lepages Presstite -green contact cement. Otherwise I use hotglue.
Another point. I use a hotglue gun with a high-low heat setting. So for hotglue hinges I use the low setting. Otherwise, if set on Hot, it will melt back the thin edge of the hinge line.

Gord.
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Old Yesterday, 01:40 AM
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I received the Everbuild Lumberjack PE fast setting glue... 5mins setting , and have given it a quick trial..
the glue is set off with what moisture is available..... in wood there would always be some, so I was a bit wary about our plastic foam sheets
On the instructions it does say to roughen a smooth surface,. and it also says to dampen down one surface
The glue itself is like a runny epoxy, it looks brown, but when spread out only gives the foam a yellow tinge

method...apply thinly with a credit card to one surface, dampen the second layer then lay on and weight down...
do the laminating on a flat surface... ...
note a thinner layer will set faster..

It does say that it will expand slightly and gap fill, so more EPP trials are needed
It also says that full cure set will be after 30mins...which it does....

On Depron. I spread a very thin layer ,using a credit card , to one bit of foam then put it ontop another bit of foam and just added a light weight to hold the layers together.. nothing was dampened, I hadn't read the instructions ......lol......
I left it about 10 mins, and it came out very well stuck...
You cant get it apart... it is very well glued, you will only rip the foam if you try.... SUCCESS


On EPP , which is always a problem, you cant apply such a thin layer of glue, the rough surface holds a lot more glue in all the dips, the setting off time became longer ... ten minutes and it was still liquid... .
So in between, I added another layer of foam, one that had been wetted with a damp cloth...
this time it set fast enough... another 10-15mins
The lamination was ok/good enough.. its as good as I get using UHU por, and like uhu it is possible to pull the layers apart..
The problem being that EPP has a very rough surface and the actual touching areas when two layers are laminated is only a fraction of the full area... It may be an idea to use heavier weights on EPP to get better surface contact or perhaps iron the surface flatter first..
that's more things to try..

pros and cons..... con- slightly sower to set than quoted time, and a thicker spread sets slower...
pro- gives time to adjust the position of the sheets being laminated..
pro- good fix when set, excellent for smooth surfaces, good enough on EPP...



conclusion .... for Depron types of flat foam, and foam board its great..... for EPP its as good as you will get ... for cost..great
for setting time the 5mins quoted is never going to work... 10 -15 mins is a better target for setting off a thin layer.. at 30 minutes it is well set...
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Old Yesterday, 01:57 AM
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So does this stuff foam at all?

The problem with the EPP rough surface is exactly why I like foaming PU glue for laminating, it swells out and contacts the whole surface.

Even if not, at that price I think that I may have a bottle on the way soon for general construction although I am on a 'Shoe Goo (EPP) and Foam Cure (Depro) trip' at the moment.

Paul
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