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Old Mar 24, 2015, 09:17 PM
EDF all the way!
bruff's Avatar
Gilbert, Az
Joined Jun 1999
8,150 Posts
Blue looks good. The trick is to wipe the foam down with acetone. It removes the wax on the foam. I always double check to make sure the foam is EPO before the acetone treatment.
Bob
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 11:31 PM
Corsair Captain
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2010
2,750 Posts
I was scared of it. If this don't hold, I'll do that. Should make for an easy clean up if that's the case huh? I'm not done yet either. Got some more to do now that I know I can use wet paper instead of tape. Will show it off on Sunday Sunday Sunday!!!!!!
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Old Mar 24, 2015, 11:42 PM
EDF all the way!
bruff's Avatar
Gilbert, Az
Joined Jun 1999
8,150 Posts
Remember .25 racing Sunday morning.
Bob
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 03:04 AM
Corsair Captain
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2010
2,750 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruff View Post
Remember .25 racing Sunday morning.
Bob
AWWW MAN!!!!!!!!!! OK,,,, I'll get there around 11:00 then. We should have a Cobra racing day too. LOL
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 03:09 AM
Corsair Captain
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2010
2,750 Posts
I can't find any reviews or such on this one. Looks goofy to me at first look. Any thoughts?
Looks to me that it should be geared around aerobatics, but I don't see it doing well at that without thrust vectoring.
http://www.falconhobbysupply.com/pro.../thltp-08a.htm
Guess you won't find anyone doing these stunts with our beloved Cobra.
Taft Hobby / Falcon Hobby QUANTUM 90MM EDF Jet Biplane By: RCINFORMER (6 min 0 sec)
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Last edited by garryk; Mar 25, 2015 at 03:18 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 05:45 AM
Destructive Tester
jimmy34256's Avatar
Tampa, FL
Joined Apr 2008
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Originally Posted by garryk View Post
I can't find any reviews or such on this one. Looks goofy to me at first look. Any thoughts?
Weird but call me" old fashioned"...... Wished they would have put that product development money into a new twin F-14.........
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 06:54 AM
Registered User
United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
4,137 Posts
Clear Coating the Stock Paint Scheme...

For all of you guys not wanting to do a repaint there's a viable option to keep the stock decals from peeling off...

GENTLY wipe the plane down with a Windex type window cleaner but BE CAREFUL around the decals---If you don't feel confident about cleaning over the decals, DON'T!!!...Go to Hobby Lobby, Walmart, etc and get a couple of cans of Krylon gloss clear coat...With your plane freshly prepped and everything that you don't want to be clear coated either removed or taped off start applying the clear in VERY LIGHT mist coats...You just want to apply a very fine "fog coat" over the plane...Let dry to the touch but NOT for hours...After the clear is "dust free" (dry to the touch) apply a second coat but slightly heavier than the first...The idea here is to get the clear on without possibly lifting the decals or causing "fish eyes" in the paint from applying wet coats too early...I keep on applying coats slightly wetter than the previous one after allowing the previous coat to be dust free...After about the fourth or fifth coat the plane should be very glossy...Time to stop...Allow the plane to dry over night before handling...

I did this to a Mini Concept and it turned out great!!!...The clear also provides a slight hard shell that will resist SLIGHT dings/rash...

Now, here's the negative part of doing this...If down the road you want to apply a new paint scheme it will be next to impossible...The clear is on there to stay...Yes, you can apply painter's tape to remove the decals as they are still removable---However, there will be a ridge line from the clear coat all around where the decal was...And just applying a new paint job over the existing decals will cause "ghosting" where the perimeter of the decal can still be seen...

So, once you go this direction, that's it...But the stock decals will be there forever and won't peel off!!!

Kevin
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 07:01 AM
Mach One
captain MoMo's Avatar
Joined Apr 2011
3,946 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by garryk View Post
I can't find any reviews or such on this one. Looks goofy to me at first look. Any thoughts?
Looks to me that it should be geared around aerobatics, but I don't see it doing well at that without thrust vectoring.
http://www.falconhobbysupply.com/pro.../thltp-08a.htm
Guess you won't find anyone doing these stunts with our beloved Cobra.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLQ3QpkZd3M
I am sure some will love this model but I tend to like more scale and realistic models. Plus not sure what the two wings really add ? Like you said thrust vectors would make it much more acrobatic.
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 08:19 AM
Watt me worry?
Madmax1965's Avatar
Florida
Joined Mar 2006
4,270 Posts
Guys maybe I can suggest some steps for finishing the EPO planes. I have painted a couple Stinger 90 planes and this is what I do.

I use lacquer thinner to wipe down the plane after removing the decals with tape.

I then spray a light coat of SEM "high build primer" such as is used on plastic bumpers on automobiles. Let the SEM dry completely at least 24 hrs....then lightly steel-wood the primer so it is smooth. ATTENTION!!! Do not sandpaper these planes and use the steel wood very very lightly on the SEM. The reason is the EPO has a cell construction and if you sandpaper the surface you break open the cells and then have one big mess.

After lightly steel-wooling the SEM apply a second coat ....once again let it dry completely. Lightly steel wood again....You can then add your paint. Most any of the rattle cans or model enamels will work. If you let the SEM dry completely you should not have paint lift if you remove the "low Tack" tape carefully. One thing.....the lacquer thinner worked on the Stinger 90 EPO plastic but you might want to try the thinner on a small area of your plane first. I think all the EPO is the same but then again maybe not.

The photo of my Stinger 90(with after-market canopy) is attached below.
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 08:27 AM
Watt me worry?
Madmax1965's Avatar
Florida
Joined Mar 2006
4,270 Posts
I forgot to mention that the SEM primer comes in white , grey, and black(I used the white SEM primer on my Stinger). Also the longer the SEM is allowed to dry on the plane the better.
.....it is a high build primer....so it takes time to dry.... Don't set the plane in the sun to dry unless you like alligator look.



I used the Tamilya paints in these codes...these over top of the SEM primer.
•TS (synthetic -lacquer spray paints for plastic models)
•AS (synthetic -lacquer spray paints for plastic models designed for Aircraft models in mind)

https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/f...2#.VRLMNuko5D8
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Last edited by Madmax1965; Mar 25, 2015 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2015, 07:10 PM
Registered User
United States, NE, Lincoln
Joined Oct 2014
375 Posts
Man thats awesome looking
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Old Yesterday, 06:29 PM
Registered User
United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
4,137 Posts
I discovered something about the stock ESC...When I encounter a stock ESC that is fully covered in heat shrink the first thing that I do is to cut cooling areas out over the heat sink(s)...This allows the air to flow over directly over the heat sink, allowing for more efficient cooling due to the direct contact of the air...When cutting out the heat shrink on the stock ESC I was surprised at what I found...On one side there is a clear plastic cover with COOLING HOLES drilled into it!!!....I was amazed that the factory would just cover up these cooling holes...So---To make your stock ESC run cooler and possibly last longer, cut out the areas shown in the two pics...I also cut out the heat shrink from the UBEC to also allow for more efficient cooling...After all---This is a HV UBEC that can get hotter than a LV UBEC due to the higher voltage difference the HV UBEC encounters dropping the voltage down to 5-6 volts vs a LV UBEC...Stay cool!!!......

Kevin
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Old Yesterday, 08:03 PM
Destructive Tester
jimmy34256's Avatar
Tampa, FL
Joined Apr 2008
1,405 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
I discovered something about the stock ESC...When I encounter a stock ESC that is fully covered in heat shrink the first thing that I do is to cut cooling areas out over the heat sink(s)...This allows the air to flow over directly over the heat sink, allowing for more efficient cooling due to the direct contact of the air...When cutting out the heat shrink on the stock ESC I was surprised at what I found...On one side there is a clear plastic cover with COOLING HOLES drilled into it!!!....I was amazed that the factory would just cover up these cooling holes...So---To make your stock ESC run cooler and possibly last longer, cut out the areas shown in the two pics...I also cut out the heat shrink from the UBEC to also allow for more efficient cooling...After all---This is a HV UBEC that can get hotter than a LV UBEC due to the higher voltage difference the HV UBEC encounters dropping the voltage down to 5-6 volts vs a LV UBEC...Stay cool!!!......

Kevin

Funny....eflite did the same thing to their 60A esc I just pulled out of a FJ-2 Fury....
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Old Yesterday, 11:04 PM
Registered User
Canada, AB, Calgary
Joined Oct 2010
383 Posts
I've burned a couple esc before it occurred to me that the reason they burned were the windows I've cut in the heatshrink over the radiator for better cooling.

Heatshrink is the only thing that holds radiator towards FETs. If you cut too much sometimes it causes a few FETs to get poor contact and overheat!
In my opinion when ESC is placed in the duct there's no need in this kind of manipulations as air convection through the ends is enough to keep it cool. For propeller planes what you did is often a must.
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Old Today, 12:36 AM
Registered User
Vienna, Austria
Joined Apr 2007
2,268 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Greene View Post
...When cutting out the heat shrink on the stock ESC I was surprised at what I found...On one side there is a clear plastic cover with COOLING HOLES drilled into it!!!....
Kevin
same thing on the Turnigy Plush 60A and 80A - a plastic case with cooling holes, covered with heat shrink ...
those are the ones made by Hobbywing, good ESCs, but covering the cooling holes is not too smart.
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