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Old Mar 17, 2015, 09:28 PM
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United States, OH, Westerville
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Saw the assassin and fell in love with the thought of a flying wing. However, as a first ever RC Airplane, felt I might be better off learning with a more traditional plane.

No surprise, the CTH gang is at the top of the beginner section as well.

So, I've decided to start with a polyhedral albatross. With the understanding that I want to graduate to an assassin, I'd like to keep the batteries the universal Pulse 1350 3s that Lee now swears by.

I think i'll get the power pack from PlaneInsane, but in an effort to potentially save on shipping, does anyone know if he's carrying (or he can chime in also) the latest kits with double wing spar and laminate for the fuselage?

Also, you melters out there, are you using your default soldering iron or a cheapie for this purpose?

Lastly, the biggest question mark still for me is the battery charger. I plan to charge at home, so I'm looking for a charger with a built in power supply. Do I use a parallel board, do I get one that can do 4-6 Batts at a time... ? Help, please.
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 10:16 PM
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United States, UT, Herriman
Joined Jan 2012
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Get a cheap soldering iron for foam. The residue will make soldering awful if you try using the same one. I think mine was about $4 at Harbor Freight.

My favorite charger is a dual 10A per channel unit. It's overkill for 1300 batteries though, unless you want to parallel charge. Parallel is great, if you have a number of batteries about the same charge level, and you don't mind waiting for them. The current is split over all of them, so it's like charging a single, much higher capacity battery. If you plugged in 5 2000mah batteries, and charged at 10A, that's a 1C charge rate and will take about an hour.

That's why I like my dual unit. I can charge a few in parallel, and one at a faster rate at the same time. For events like Swarm, I often have that plus a smaller charger or two running.

As you want to charge at home, I highly recommend doing it outdoors in case something goes wrong. As you are getting started, I wouldn't spend a lot on charging. Get 1 or 2 inexpensive but decent quality units and skip parallel for now.
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Old Mar 17, 2015, 10:48 PM
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United States, OH, Westerville
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Thanks ttabbal. I plan to bag or cinder block it and definitely outside.

I'm glad you posted, actually. I bought a Taranis TX for quads and the ability to read telemetry from a naze board. Do you have any experience with telemetry for this application, i.e. what receiver/sensor setup for these planes?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Mar 18, 2015, 11:52 AM
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United States, UT, Herriman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefalo View Post
I'm glad you posted, actually. I bought a Taranis TX for quads and the ability to read telemetry from a naze board. Do you have any experience with telemetry for this application, i.e. what receiver/sensor setup for these planes?

Apparently I'm getting a reputation.

I like going simple with telemetry. I use the analog pack voltage sensor and smallish receivers. I would suggest an X4R or X6R receiver with this cheap voltage sensor. The D4R-II is also a good choice.

http://www.alofthobbies.com/battery-voltage-sensor.html

For the 4 channel receivers, you have to wire it up to the little harness that comes with the receiver. I usually remove the heatshrink on the sensor and solder the wires direct to it. Then install the spare heatshrink it comes with. I usually move the input wire as well, as I only run 3S batteries and the default will work with 4S. It gives a little more precision. I also remove any wires I'm not using. Just pry up a little on the tabs next to the pins, the wires then pull out of the connector easily. It sounds more complicated than it is, this whole paragraph usually takes me about 5 minutes.

For the polyhedral Albatross, the 4 channel receivers are great. For the Aileron version, you might want to run each aileron on its own channel, so the 6 or 8 channel units are needed. If you run them on a Y-cable, you can get away with 4. The catch is you need to make sure they are set up properly so that the same signal moves them opposite each other etc..

The X8R can't use the analog voltage sensor. Just something to be aware of. These are the cheapest way to get voltage on an X8R.

http://www.alofthobbies.com/x8r2analog.html

Or you can go all out and measure per-cell. You even get a nice display.

http://www.alofthobbies.com/frsky-sp-flvs.html
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Old Mar 18, 2015, 04:43 PM
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United States, OH, Westerville
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You've just posted in a couple of threads I follow and have always been good on the Taranis knowledge!

I've got a D4R-II coming, so I will use that and just run the LiPo sensor to the RSSI input and that should come on down nicely! I am fine with the 4 channels since I plan on getting the polyhedral.

I like that it runs off the balance plug, but may need to look at a Y plug for somewhere if/when I put some LEDs on it.

Again, thanks for taking the time to respond!
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Old Mar 19, 2015, 11:03 AM
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United States, OH, Westerville
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Well, I emailed Ryan at PlaneInsaneRC, and got a response like 2 seconds after sending.

I may have to remind the wife she told me to get a hobby, but I am super excited to start getting parts!

Question - Has anyone done programming on the SuperSimple ESCs via Tx, or do y'all use programming cards?
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Old Mar 21, 2015, 09:37 AM
I call it 'landing'...
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Germany, SN, Leipzig
Joined Jan 2014
80 Posts
I'm programming via TX. Once you got it its really simple.

First I listen the beeps for a full cycle, comparing it to the manual. When I'm sure which beep marks the item I want to change (i.e. brake) i pull the throttle stick.
For safety I dismount the prop all the time.
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Old Mar 23, 2015, 09:45 AM
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United States, OH, Westerville
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Well, both PlaneInsane and Pulse work quickly, so I'll have everything but the receiver and servos in hand today!

Build will probably be slow, but I am very excited!
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