Originally Posted by leadfeather

I agree with carr52, sounds like a tail heavy plane.

Another cause could be airframe flexing which can creates a pitch unstable situation. Do you have any photos or videos of your build?

Rats, sorry I did not notice this post before answering carr52. I don't know how to include a video in this post unfortunately. Cant take a pic of complete plane at the moment as its dismanteled as well as gluing a carbon rod into wing. I will look into possible flexing of the body, maybe a carbon rod or two in body for extra strength if changing the cog does not help. Thank you for your ideas, it's much appreciated.

I just got some tape from tapebrothers.com and I haven't had a chance to try it on EPP yet but it really sticks to dollar tree foam. I'll give it a go later and see what happens. Strenght wise its just regular thin packing tape but lots of colors. So far I've only used it on one project. about half way down the page. A small truss type plane.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...9#post22329069

Tom

After reading earlier on in this thread about milling EPP , I decided to give it a go.
It cut like butter . Now i am going to have to build a hole new airframe and give it a proper trial. I only milled a rudder for my Disney for this test . I am encouraged .

Originally Posted by davereap

heres a tip that may be of use one day..
have you got a prop that has a too big a hole so you cant fill it or centralise it on the prop addapter...
I had some then realised that if you use a collet type prop addaptor you can remove the collet from the addaptor and replace it with the prop tightening the prop down, it centralises itself and acts as the collet, fixing the addaptor to the motor shaft..
The collet is used as a spacer on top of the prop ...

Great tip. It happens more than people think. I have at least a 100 prop rings and spacers and the one you need is never there. Thanks again.

Tom

i have access to very light epp in the 0.7-1.0 range has anyone worked with such light epp if i used standard building technics ( i use carbon fiber strips , fiber tape and lam film ) would this foam work or is it to soft? i build mainly high speed wings for cliff soaring with hs airfoils that are thin

Cover thin or thick EPP with laminating film. It irons on easy and sticks to EPP like nothing else.....without any prep.

It will stiffen up the foam and makes for a cleaner slicker wing surface, and a much better flyer that just painted or gooped EPP. There's lots of info here on RCG, just do a search.

Here's one to get you started...... http://wyowindworks.com/slopemonkeynewstuff.html

Actually gold guy i already know all that as i said im a builder with epp already and continue to source out new ways to build what i want to know is has anyone used such light epp and what are there experiences have you used 0.7 pcf epp ? the most common epp on the market is 1.4 and 1.9pcf so im wandering if this foam is worth looking at for building light or is it to flexible or unsuitable for use I build lots of prototypes and would be buying a 48x96x12 block of foam at a discount price($150) they may have some samples to send im getting some 1.7 in the same size the foam will be all pre cut by the manufacturer into slabs im thinking 1 1/2"

One of my best indoor planes was a sub 5 oz epp yak 55. motorhead had some .9 lb epp that he gave to me. It was hot wire cut to 9mm. With the hot-wire cutting (leaves a thin skin) it was just as stiff as 1.3lb foam. Great material for really light yet still durable epp planes.

I'd guess the stuff you have would be excellent for indoor planes.

Originally Posted by fliteline dave

Actually gold guy i already know all that as i said im a builder with epp already and continue to source out new ways to build what i want to know is has anyone used such light epp and what are there experiences have you used 0.7 pcf epp ? the most common epp on the market is 1.4 and 1.9pcf so im wandering if this foam is worth looking at for building light or is it to flexible or unsuitable for use I build lots of prototypes and would be buying a 48x96x12 block of foam at a discount price($150) they may have some samples to send im getting some 1.7 in the same size the foam will be all pre cut by the manufacturer into slabs im thinking 1 1/2"

Unless my math is wrong somewhere that works out to about $1 a sheet for 10mm 24x36 sheets. That's a heck of a deal compared to the $5+ I'm currently paying. Sign me up for that deal...

ya its strait from the manufacture in Quebec not sure what the shipping would be the 1.4 is around $180+ that's a lot of foam keep me busy for a while i only cut cores and have worked with 1.4 but they have cost me up to $40 a set think i could make about 30 sets or more this way











4

Wow leadfeather,

Thanks for summing everything up in post #1 through #11, it was a great read for someone who is about to start scratchbuilding with EPP.

I just got some great EPP building tips from chambo88 in his A-10 Tankbuster thread.
Posts of interest:
#6 shows the build pictures.
#38 explains about shaping EPP with knife and iron (and a dust pan hot wire cutter!)

Did I actually read 65 pages???
Really good info.

don't use gorilla glue for any thing structure it will break before the foam or pre-sanded carbon fiber spar it is light and will fill gaps but, i will now remove the spar that i set in and remove all the foam (gorilla glue) from the joint completely useless as far as i can see DON'T USE IT!!!

I don't use polyurethane glue with epp much since polyurethane glue is not flexible and epp is, that difference means a lot stress around the glue joint. But I do use it in places where I don't think there is going to be much flexing.

has any one ordered any thing from RC Sky Flyers. EPP foam
I have placed an order and emailed them and nothing