About ready to go back up. Took about 20 minutes of re-hinging the elevator/rudder and making sure it was true. I still have to fabricate a make shift battery tray but I didnt want to get out the dremel and kick up all the dust as I am really sick and Im sure it wouldnt help that The 10 minutes or so I was up, was an incredible flying experience. I am going to have to mix in some elevator/throttle as it just wants to pitch up when I get on the throttle. Cant wait to fly this thing again!

Originally Posted by Cloudflying

...
The 10 minutes or so I was up, was an incredible flying experience. I am going to have to mix in some elevator/throttle as it just wants to pitch up when I get on the throttle. Cant wait to fly this thing again!

Hi Cloud.
At the risk of starting another argument/heated discussion, I would advise against mixing in elevator and throttle. Most powered sailplanes pitch up when you throttle up, it's just inherent in the design. imo, you should use the elevator manually, the reason is depending on wind gusts, angle of climb, battery discharge, etc, the amount of elevator needed on a climbout varies greatly.

I generally launch at about 1/3 throttle, and just throw it straight out like you're test-gliding. Once the sailplane is out a few meters, and you have both hands back on the transmitter, THEN you can go WOT or however much you want, but you have to be ready to add down elevator (sometimes full down) during climb. The manual elevator control is used to get the best climb angle, and alleviate stalls.

That's just my opinion, but I think it makes for a better ride up.

--
Greg

I agree with botulism (that feels a bit weird!). Another thing to keep in mind is that elevator effectiveness goes up along with airspeed. One will often find that the pitch up is easier to control if you gradually add throttle to allow airspeed to equalize thrust. A little practice will find you just moving the throttle and elevator forward together without a thought.

About discussion above about nose-up on throttle. I give a soft touch to down elevator and adjust it according how plane flies and behaves. Following video has taken today (20/10/2012) on Jämi airfield (Finland) where I was flying today. Onboard video, cut to 13 minutes thanks to YouTube rules. Real flying time was around 19min 30sec with engine running roughly 3:39. Top altitude recorded was 125m - not highest on today, hit 135m mark on next flight.

Quality is poor, not much to expect 6 euros camera...

Jämi FlyDay - Onboard Video (13 min 20 sec)

Hi folks,

I've been happily using a 35-30 1100kv Prop drive with a 40amp plush along with a 10x6 folding prop for a few months now but after a wet grass landing my motor wouldn't spin up to full throttle so I bought a new motor and that's doing it too. I have tried a few different ESC's aswell with no luck and I get the same result.

Can anyone identify with the problem or better yet recommend a better motor/ESC/prop combo? I'd like to solve it as I've just started catching thermals and am quite enjoying this plane.

What is your auw? Have you tried to keep the weight down to aid thermalling? My experience has been that it tends to sink, I mean it is not really a thermal model in my opinion. I tried to keep it light but prefer a heavier set up for higher wind application, for more dynamic flight. So i have a 140g motor requiring my batt to be pushed back to the servo mount to balance, batt tray removed, 2200 4s. 3639 750 kv turning 13x9. Low kv, low amp draw higher voltage more torque to turn larger prop, more thrust. Auw i dare say is heavier that your 3530 set up on 3s? I think you will enjoy the climb rate more so on mine. In a good breeze it will sit there and not drop its nose, a little flap for camber, so long as it is balanced well, light spinner required.
Its a fun plane but not really a great performer, at any specific task, don't get me wrong, i like it, have found it does best with a set up with a bit of authority.

I have mine set up with an RCTimer 2830-14 750KV and stock folding prop(too small for 750kv), on 3s. And I love it as is, cause I really try not to use the motor at all. In 75 minutes of flight just 1 minute of motor.

why do you guys use big motors, like 3530?!

Originally Posted by schumixmd

I have mine set up with an RCTimer 2830-14 750KV and stock folding prop(too small for 750kv), on 3s. And I love it as is, cause I really try not to use the motor at all. In 75 minutes of flight just 1 minute of motor.

why do you guys use big motors, like 3530?!

Climb rate, thrust, aerobatics, its a forgiving airframe that will slow down when powered off, off course not that strong so no major pull out from great dives, i think the wings would collapse, but it will whistle by.
Great flight time schumixmd, i have flown the phoenix all winter in cold n wet conditions in strong winds, not thermalling conditions.
I have a 1500mm e-hawk at under 500g that will do better in the middle of the day as summer approaches. You must have a good spot for lift, I envy you.

yeah, have to say.. slope flights or thermalling gave that numbers. But when just bother around in no wind, then 20 minutes from 3s 2200mAh pack.

Teamsherman's 3530 isn't that big 88g and 300-400 watt. What was the weight of the stock 28 size 70g? Your rctimer 2830-14 is 80g? My 3639 is 140g not sure 600w? How about a 4240, not sure I believe that weight at 131g

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tor_800kv.html

Of course these are all cheap motors, any one use say a scorpion or other quality outrunner for the phoinex? $$$

Ok so can someone give me a certain workable combo and I'll order it today.

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

Ok so can someone give me a certain workable combo and I'll order it today.

my set up is

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tor_750kv.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...op_Blades.html

think I saw 13x7 there too, 8mm root and 3mm pin
i have a sentry 40 amp esc, 3amp bec corona 12g metal gear servos for rudder and elevator, 9 gram for ail and flap. so using a 2200 20c 4s nothing special with the batt can use 3s but the batt tray is out and batt is velcroed in on the fus floor as far back as you can get it, against the servo mount. Rx is also slid back past servo mounts, no extra weight added though. nice light spinner required too, 5mm shaft, I don't like any of the hk ones. here is a vid with this set up

phoenix 2000 (3 min 27 sec)

if you check back at post 2350, page 157, it is the same set up, have fun

Couple of nice rolls and loops there MUSTFLYNOW2!
Where was the camera mounted, close the fuselage on the leading edge of of the right wing? - I would have move it out an inch or two. Dunno.
-B!LL!

If any UK Phoenix 2000 owners need spares then have a look at this Ebay listing
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spares-Rep...30818751580%26
Everything in the kit version apart from the fuse.
Time left: 1 day 15 hours (06 Nov, 2012 10:21:15 GMT)
Current bid:£25.25
[ 8 bids ]
Andy

After getting over a head cold and overtime, I finally installed my new 60 amp ESC. I drilled out the air vents I had covered with fiberglass too. I'm putting this new ESC under the battery tray so hopefully some air will come inside and cool it down. I also have my separate BEC running from the ESC battery wires to the main flight battery. Although my new ESC says it has a switching BEC built in I would prefer to fly with my separate BEC. Of course when I say "fly" I mean night flying. Hopefully I can fly Tuesday or Wednesday night!