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USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
13,844 Posts
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And looking at the massive number of builds that have been covered with clear and colored package sealing tape I'd have to say that covering foam with some type of thin light film has no bad effects at all.
I like the 2.2 mil or so colored tape best on a balance of cost and ease of use. Applying it to follow the steps has been possible but is a tricky and time consuming process that really requires two or more sets hand to accomplish. So I usually trim the tape even with the vertical drop at the step and then resume it on the horizontal flat at the bottom leaving the vertical steps uncovered. It has been found that the cleanly defined and sharp 90 degree step works better than a step with any eye-pleasing curves, rounded corners, and angled or airflow smoothing attempts. I use 3M77 or Duro #01-81088 aerosol spray adhesive on bare foam to improve the adhesion of the foam. And has been mentioned, it can contribute a lot to the strength of components like the tail feathers. I use a single layer of tape covered 1/4" FFF foam for vstabs and hstabs whereas the bare foam by itself would not be strong enough. And with the tape the hinging of control surfaces becomes an a thrown in for free or inherent part of the covering process. Jack |
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Not a great picture for showing the step covered (was to show the servo for ailerons) But this is a KFM1 wing and at each side of the picture, you can see the step with Packing tape covering. I tape the top, then use the handle of an Xacto knife to "roll" or slide it into the step corner, then press the surface aft of the step. Followup with a Monokote iron to set the adhesive and it's all good.
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Latest blog entry: OSE One Sheet Edge 540 Video
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USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
13,844 Posts
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Quote:
Quote:
How do I know that? Who else knows that? I know if from experience as a builder and flyer and from my experiences and anecdotal evidence contributed by others over the past five years or so. And the others are those that have gone through the same or similar experiences that I have. We are not scientists, we don't have wind tunnels, we still have questions and wonder about how and why it works. But we don't wonder much about what does work. Our gauge of effectiveness is in the seats of out pants and the emotions of happiness we get out of our builds. Quote:
Jack |
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USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
13,844 Posts
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Don't forget, the building thing is a big factor in the KF thing. Especially if you like to build with cheap and readily available materials. And can take some joy out of anything that will fly.
Do you have a plane with a KF foil? If not, it is easy to build one and it will fly well. What might be more interesting would be to build a flat plate wing plane of some type that is a quick and easy build and not hard to fly too. The NutBall, best damn RET foamy yet..... - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836389 Buiild and fly something like that. Then build and fly something like davereap's KFm4 version of that plane: KFm4 build on a 36" Nutball using 6mm Depron or FFF - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1049935 If you don't see a difference I would be very surprised. You could even just build the Nutball and then tape a KFm1 (bottom) or KFm2 (top) step on it and the effects of the step it will be apparent. Jack |
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USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
13,844 Posts
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Quote:
The 3M77 ($12 a can or more) and Duro 01-81088 (about $8 a can cheaper and works well) both have some Acetone in them that will attack foam. But if you hold the part at arms length (wear an old sweatshirt sleeve and a disposable glove) and spray on one or two light coats it will not "pecker up" little holes in the bare FFF. And the plastic skinned side is not bothered by it. Jack |
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