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Old Mar 18, 2014, 08:35 PM
Branjo
Joined Sep 2013
270 Posts
WOW! Thanks a Million EC, I will get that printed ASAP. Also thanks for the info, I wil check it out. Meanwhile looking forward to the BA coming this Thurs in the mail.
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Old Mar 24, 2014, 07:34 PM
Branjo
Joined Sep 2013
270 Posts
OK, I have a dumb question. Got my BA parasol today from Easybuilt, and I'm just wondering about the print wood. When I cut the parts out. Should I cut outside and leave the line, cut the line, or cut inside of the line of the print and have a part with no ink left? I'm guessing someone knows what I'm talking about. Thanks so much in advance.
Branden
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Old Mar 24, 2014, 09:57 PM
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USA, IL, Wheaton
Joined Oct 2010
565 Posts
I would probably leave the line until you had all the pieces of the same type and then use sandpaper to make them exactly the same. Pin the wing ribs together, and sand them top and bottom with a sanding block. I'd leave a bit extra on the front and rear of the wing ribs, and trim them to fit into the frame. The outer edges of formers probably should be sanded with a long sanding board after they are assembled.

It's hard to make things consistent if you cut off all the ink before you assemble. Better to leave the ink on, and use sandpaper to make the final outline.

It might be good to make any notches for stringers tight at first. Then, use a thin file to make sure they run straight.

I build some from plans, and all these precautions go double doing that.

Enjoy your kit

Joe
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Old Mar 25, 2014, 10:17 AM
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United States, VA, Chesterfield
Joined Mar 2001
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I cut on the outside of the line and touch it up with 180 grit paper to get rid of the black marks.
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Old Mar 26, 2014, 04:39 PM
Branjo
Joined Sep 2013
270 Posts
Sounds good. Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 12:53 AM
Culper Junior
eastern pa
Joined Feb 2007
2,272 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Daily View Post
I cut on the outside of the line and touch it up with 180 grit paper to get rid of the black marks.
I've built many printwood kits and that seems to work the best for me.
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Old Oct 01, 2014, 04:11 PM
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atesus's Avatar
Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
178 Posts
Here's my new Skokie. 50g without rubber, I fly it with 19g of 3/32" rubber arranged in 4 loops. I presently have a Gizmogeezer 9.5" prop installed on it. I'm planning to build another front end with a 10" carved prop to fly it in SAM contests.
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Old Oct 01, 2014, 05:06 PM
High Exalted Poohbah
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Atlanta, GA USA
Joined Sep 2001
1,884 Posts
New Jimmie Allen plan found and restored

And there is another new one in the works that will be posted soon.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...65873&page=889

Planeman
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Old Oct 01, 2014, 05:09 PM
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Joined May 2009
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That's a really pretty model! It looks like you're about ready to release, how did it perform? Any more shots of the DT set up? Did you make the wheels or buy them somewhere?

Not sure which I like better, your model or your stooge!!

CD
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Old Oct 02, 2014, 02:33 AM
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Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
178 Posts
Thanks CD! It performed quite well, it won the Jimmie Allen contest at the US Free Flight Champs this past weekend. You can see it ROG -though not from the best angle- in this video, around the 3:00 mark. The first ROG is something else

Footage from US FF Champs, Lost Hills, CA, September 26-28, 2014 (11 min 20 sec)


I fly it with a long motor run as it is not the best glider at that weight. Also, the glide trim is not optimal as is, it needs a bit more work.

I'll take pictures of the DT system and post them. I made the wheels. They are two cross grained layers of 1/4" balsa, painted black. The hubcaps are 1/16" balsa, covered with tissue. All the pieces were turned on a small Dremel lathe.

Quote:
Not sure which I like better, your model or your stooge!!
Like the model, the model! The stooge is store bought (Starlink Flitetech).

Best,

--Ates
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Old Oct 02, 2014, 03:17 AM
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atesus's Avatar
Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
178 Posts
The DT system is something I devised for another high-wing model. This is the second model I'm using it on and I'm happy with its performance. It has significantly more authority than a stab DT.

The lines are 6# Spiderwire. Their ends are knotted and the knot is fixed with a drop of CA glue. When setting up the timer, you gotta remember to route the stop loop before the rubberband. Otherwise the wing will detach at DT. As shown, the angle of the wing is a bit too high thus the descent is faster than I like. That's easily adjusted however by putting a knot or two on the stop loop. Another thing to remember is to round off the top of the nose block so that it can dislodge easily if the prop hits the ground, which is quite likely as the fuselage is at a steep angle during descent.

--Ates
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 09:55 PM
Kansas is windy.
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Wichita, KS
Joined Jun 2003
1,578 Posts
Ates, what D/T timer is that? I'm looking for a light replacement for a burning fuse.
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 11:59 PM
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atesus's Avatar
Los Gatos, CA
Joined Aug 2009
178 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pburress View Post
Ates, what D/T timer is that? I'm looking for a light replacement for a burning fuse.
That's a "Badge Light" timer. Starlink-Flitetech sells two types of similar timers.

http://www.starlink-flitetech.com/SLFT-Timers

The one I have on the Skokie is similar to "Badge Classic" but a little smaller and gives shorter times. I've used the Badge Classic too, for larger models. I haven't used the "Button Classic" but I'm tempted to because of its light weight. I run my Badge Light with a dental rubberband and get fairly consistent results (for a viscous timer that is). I run the Badge Classic with a spring.

--Ates
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Old Nov 24, 2014, 10:31 AM
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Rio Rancho NM
Joined Dec 2004
1,258 Posts
Speaking of Jimmie Allen I ran across a pic in the New Clarion newsletter of "two Jimmie Allen" models. One was the Baby Hornet which seemed identical to the Easybuilt version. Is it really a JA model?

bill

EDIT:
Typo in the newsletter. Oh well!

bill
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