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Old May 31, 2014, 04:33 AM
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Joined May 2014
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Yet another Pixhawk 180A Attopilot wiring newbie

Hi,

I have scouted the net for hours and beyond.. Trying to find a complete sample of how to wiring the Pixhawk with Attopilot 180A. By complete I mean a sample where you also see how the power is connected - not only the sensor cables(I, V, G) from Attopilot. There is plenty of pictures out there which shows how this should be accomplished for the sensor cables, but none on how to connect/supply the power to the Pixhawk and the prefferable solution to do this? I have seen this picture: (don't mind that the pic shows the 90A atto)
which shows the complete wiring. Couldn't this be accomplished without the extra battery? If so what would that setup look like?

Here is another very nice flowchart of the wiring
but unfortunately it doesn't show the 180A attopilot.. so no help there either.

My hexa build can(will rarely ever happen but I would like to scale for it) draw 105A on max throttle and I'm planing on using a pair of parallel 6S LiPos.

This is how I have planned the setup so far is LiPo -> Atto 180A -> PDB -> ESC My PDB will have two extra slots over after all the ESCs are connected. Maybe I can use them in some smart way? As you can see above I'm missing out on how to supply the power for my Pixhawk.

Also as I'm planning to use a PDB and reading this:
Quote:
When using a power distribution board, connect the power (+), ground (-), and signal (s) wires for each ESC to the PDB according to motor number. Find your frame type in the section below to determine the assigned order of the motors (select images to enlarge). Then connect the signal wires from the PDB to the main output signal pins on Pixhawk, ensuring that the motor order numbers match the main output pin numbers on Pixhawk. If you are using a power module, it is optional to connect the power and ground wires from the PDB to Pixhawk. If you would like to use these cables in addition to or instead of the power module or as a common point for low current servos, see the instructions above for powering Pixhawk off the servo rail.
http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/com..._motor_outputs confuses me whether I have to remove the power and ground cables from my ESC motor cable(and only use the signal cable) before connecting them with Pixhawk. Anyone how can share some light on that?

I will be so glad If anyone can give a little time and help me sort this (read; mess) out since I have reach a dead end and googling some more days won't help cause there is no answers out there and this seems to be a common problem for people me included.

Thanks!
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Last edited by kahoona; May 31, 2014 at 04:56 AM.
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Old May 31, 2014, 09:06 AM
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*bump*
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Old May 31, 2014, 04:01 PM
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Bump!!!
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Old May 31, 2014, 07:14 PM
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Joined Mar 2014
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I do not know the pixhawk FC... yet. I have one on the way for a FY680 build.

I do know that if you break it down, and I say this based on my experiences working with other flight controllers- specifically the Naze32, you usually have the option of only using the power and ground from 1 esc to the board, and then using just the signal pins for the remaining motors.

In the instructions for the pixhawk it shows a similar option here- you can run through a PDB or not, and regardless, there is a need for only 5v to the rail- hence you can pull from the PDB and run through a step down or BEC or the pixhawk supplied 5v dealio to feed the rail. (which is split off) and then you can either connect all the grounds and power leads from the motors, or you can run the ground, power, from the BEC and then just run signal wire from each ESC to the rail.

Basically it summarizes the point that the rail needs 5v- there is a structured motor order, and there needs to be ground and power to the rail- how it gets there is myriad. Personally, I would follow the instructions and pull the 5v from the PDB through a 5v BEC as your pic shows, then I would run just signal wires from the motors (check to see if the first motor needs grnd, volts, and signal- I haven't read that far yet) this would save clutter. (you can roll up and tuck the unused grnd and power wires, or cut them out entirely)

Sorry if this made things worse, but I lurk in the pixhawk threads as I wait for my gear to come.
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Old Jun 01, 2014, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiway View Post
I do not know the pixhawk FC... yet. I have one on the way for a FY680 build.

I do know that if you break it down, and I say this based on my experiences working with other flight controllers- specifically the Naze32, you usually have the option of only using the power and ground from 1 esc to the board, and then using just the signal pins for the remaining motors.

In the instructions for the pixhawk it shows a similar option here- you can run through a PDB or not, and regardless, there is a need for only 5v to the rail- hence you can pull from the PDB and run through a step down or BEC or the pixhawk supplied 5v dealio to feed the rail. (which is split off) and then you can either connect all the grounds and power leads from the motors, or you can run the ground, power, from the BEC and then just run signal wire from each ESC to the rail.

Basically it summarizes the point that the rail needs 5v- there is a structured motor order, and there needs to be ground and power to the rail- how it gets there is myriad. Personally, I would follow the instructions and pull the 5v from the PDB through a 5v BEC as your pic shows, then I would run just signal wires from the motors (check to see if the first motor needs grnd, volts, and signal- I haven't read that far yet) this would save clutter. (you can roll up and tuck the unused grnd and power wires, or cut them out entirely)

Sorry if this made things worse, but I lurk in the pixhawk threads as I wait for my gear to come.
Hi Hiway,

Many thanks for your time. You are presenting a vareity of alternatives here. I think what I need with my limited knowledge about rc and electric wiring is a diagram for a dummy

I found this: pixhawk_6s_mod
which I think is really good reading however it doesn't clearify it enough for me so that I would feel secure enough in implementing it with the 180A Attopilot sensor. All he is doing is basing it on the 90A 3DR sensor which can't handle more then 90A where I think the majorito of the people reading that article is in need of a bigger sensor like 180A(and IMO the mathematical example should be baised on that and not the 90A sensor!?). So he is shooting above the target for retards like me..

I also find it strange that 3DR isn't giving out a sensor which has a default support for 6S batteries.

Well well I guess I will get it sorted one day or the other. Thanks for your time.
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Old Jun 07, 2014, 03:27 PM
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Joined Jun 2004
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The Atto and 3DR sensors are fundamentally different. The Atto just gives out voltages proportional to the battery current and voltage and is scaled for 3.3v.

The 3DR sensor does the same but scaled for 5v, but also provides an output of 5v at 2.3Amps. When used with a PixHawk the 3DR sensor can only be used up to 60A despite being rated at 90A (this is due to the pixhawk being based on 3.3v processor rather than 5v, I would think).

I see no reason why you cannot use an Atto sensor directly with a PixHawk as they are scaled the same (for 3.3v). Not sure what happens with the software and Mission Planner scaling though.

Good Luck, Peter
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Old Jul 17, 2014, 10:27 PM
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same problem....

I am currently running a similar to KAHOONA???
Have you figured a solution to this?

how could i use a bec from an esc on the pixhawk? Where do I plug in the power imput?
or even a seperate BEC?

Do i splice into the df13 red - pin 1 ?
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Last edited by manteiga11; Jul 18, 2014 at 10:50 AM.
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